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Logo removal?
- Thread starter ManRay
- Start date
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2014
- Messages
- 1,517
Logos are a bloody pain to remove, and if they're etched or stamped in deep a lot of material is going to be removed. I've had some success with polishing off as much as I reasonably can, then overlaying with my own design, something like a tattoo coverup. I use small diamond Dremel bits, patience, and a lot of swear words.
The problem with the logo on the Natchez is that it's on the entire side of the blade, as opposed to a small area separated by grind lines. This makes it impossible to isolate the logo area and remove it without either creating a noticeable spot with a different finish, or re-finishing the entire side of the blade.
Like for example, I've removed the logos (both sides) on several Ti-Lite 6's (example below), but luckily for me the logos were on the "flats" of the blade, so I was able to tape off the grinds with masking tape, isolating the logos, and remove the logos without it looking like I had removed any logos.
Another problem with Cold Steel's logos is that they are not just painted/printed on, they are lightly etched in. At least they are on the Ti-Lite 6's.
To remove the logos, after taping off the grinds, I sand the flats with 220 grit sand paper wrapped around a small rectangular piece of hard rubber, this does an effective job of removing the logo, although it does take a bit of elbow grease due to the depth of the etch. Using anything less than 220 grit would take a LONG time. Then to reduce the sanding lines I switch to 600 grit, and then finish with 2500 grit.
The easiest suggestion I can make for the Natchez would be to tape off a rectangle around the logo, and only sand in that rectangle, maybe use a dremel with a polishing wheel and start with the lowest/coarsest grit polishing paste. But then, like I said, you will end up with a rectangle with a different finish.
Or, you can try to hide the sanding lines by sanding with the grain of the blade, trying to match the grit of sand paper to the finish of the rest of the blade. This is not easy, as it is virtually impossible to sand perfectly straight by hand. I used this method to remove the "MILITARY" etching on the blade of an old Spyderco Military. It turned out alright, but it was a much smaller blade than the Natchez.
Good luck.
Like for example, I've removed the logos (both sides) on several Ti-Lite 6's (example below), but luckily for me the logos were on the "flats" of the blade, so I was able to tape off the grinds with masking tape, isolating the logos, and remove the logos without it looking like I had removed any logos.
Another problem with Cold Steel's logos is that they are not just painted/printed on, they are lightly etched in. At least they are on the Ti-Lite 6's.
To remove the logos, after taping off the grinds, I sand the flats with 220 grit sand paper wrapped around a small rectangular piece of hard rubber, this does an effective job of removing the logo, although it does take a bit of elbow grease due to the depth of the etch. Using anything less than 220 grit would take a LONG time. Then to reduce the sanding lines I switch to 600 grit, and then finish with 2500 grit.
The easiest suggestion I can make for the Natchez would be to tape off a rectangle around the logo, and only sand in that rectangle, maybe use a dremel with a polishing wheel and start with the lowest/coarsest grit polishing paste. But then, like I said, you will end up with a rectangle with a different finish.
Or, you can try to hide the sanding lines by sanding with the grain of the blade, trying to match the grit of sand paper to the finish of the rest of the blade. This is not easy, as it is virtually impossible to sand perfectly straight by hand. I used this method to remove the "MILITARY" etching on the blade of an old Spyderco Military. It turned out alright, but it was a much smaller blade than the Natchez.
Good luck.
ManRay
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2014
- Messages
- 709
Thank you for the write up. I think I'll try a small area and if it bugs be then I'll refinish the whole blade. On a side note, any idea what would happen if I dipped it in ferric chloride? Would it make the lamination "pop"?The problem with the logo on the Natchez is that it's on the entire side of the blade, as opposed to a small area separated by grind lines. This makes it impossible to isolate the logo area and remove it without either creating a noticeable spot with a different finish, or re-finishing the entire side of the blade.
Like for example, I've removed the logos (both sides) on several Ti-Lite 6's (example below), but luckily for me the logos were on the "flats" of the blade, so I was able to tape off the grinds with masking tape, isolating the logos, and remove the logos without it looking like I had removed any logos.
Another problem with Cold Steel's logos is that they are not just painted/printed on, they are lightly etched in. At least they are on the Ti-Lite 6's.
To remove the logos, after taping off the grinds, I sand the flats with 220 grit sand paper wrapped around a small rectangular piece of hard rubber, this does an effective job of removing the logo, although it does take a bit of elbow grease due to the depth of the etch. Using anything less than 220 grit would take a LONG time. Then to reduce the sanding lines I switch to 600 grit, and then finish with 2500 grit.
The easiest suggestion I can make for the Natchez would be to tape off a rectangle around the logo, and only sand in that rectangle, maybe use a dremel with a polishing wheel and start with the lowest/coarsest grit polishing paste. But then, like I said, you will end up with a rectangle with a different finish.
Or, you can try to hide the sanding lines by sanding with the grain of the blade, trying to match the grit of sand paper to the finish of the rest of the blade. This is not easy, as it is virtually impossible to sand perfectly straight by hand. I used this method to remove the "MILITARY" etching on the blade of an old Spyderco Military. It turned out alright, but it was a much smaller blade than the Natchez.
Good luck.
- Joined
- Sep 1, 2008
- Messages
- 212
Yes! I had an old aus8 voyager that the logo had almost disappeared (hard user) and then dipped it in ferric chloride and it came back stronger than when it was brand new! Beware!!! It was like black and white on the blade, it wasn't a problem but not what I was expecting.