Logo stamping

Revolverrodger

Revolverrodger

Joined
Jul 23, 2007
Messages
3,889
Hello,
I'm thinking about getting a custom logo to stamp my knives.
How does one go about applying the logo by hand (I don't have a press) ?
What kind of hammer should I use ?
Do you do it when the steel is cold and annealed or when the blade is red before quenching ?
I'm new to this so any info would help
Thanks
 
Uncle Al at Riverside Machine Shop sells a "Riverside Stampmaster" I have used this for many years and it makes a perfect stamp every time. Uncle Al also sells custom letter stamps.
 
I used these guys: http://www.steelhandstamps.com/Hand_Stamps.html


You can try it in a press. It shouldn't be a problem. I stamp my blades cold when they are annealed. For carbon steels I typically stamp after the rough grinding and before normalization so any stress I put into the blade by stamping is relieved in the normalizing. For something like a stainless kitchen knife like the one I'm working on now, I stamp after the blade is profiled and holes drilled but before any bevel grinding as that will be done post heat treating. My current project blade is AEB-L. I tried to stamp it in my 20 ton shop press and the steel just laughed at it. So I went my regular route, an 8lb sledge hammer that I cut the handle down. I lay the blade on the anvil, line up the stamp and give it a good shot with the sledge. You know what they say about life, "sometimes you're the steel, sometimes you're the stamp". ;) If you're forging, you can stamp it hot.
 
I stamp it with a heavy hammer after hand sanding that side of the blade, but before hand sanding the other side. I then heat treat, and finish the knife.

I wouldn't personally hot stamp my blades. I fear it would lose its temper over time, and become too soft.
 
I use an 8lb sledge hammer. I'd rather hit it once and get a good impression than to have to make multiple strikes. Depending on the steel and my swing, sometimes I do give it another strike or two but it is uncommon. If you make too shallow an impression, chances are fair to good that you will lose part of the mark while doing final grinding and sanding after heat treat. I have ground or sanded off even nice deep stampings sometimes during final shaping.
 
I'm just a hobby knifemaker, I purchased a stamp several months ago, my tip, I set a 1-2-3" block on the blade to keep the stamp perpendicular to the blade. It works very well. I'll mark the line where my plunge line will start, line my 1-2-3 block then set the stamp against block, and hold together and try to do one solid whack. I have found a heavy hammer swung lightly is much better than trying to swing a light hammer hard. Also I agree, if you can get it in one swing, it's much better. I also learned the hard way, a substantial anvil or chunk of steel under the blade is very important so you don't get bounce and cause secondary/unwanted marks. Good luck.
 
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