Long awaited 605 kit has arrived !

Matt Shade

Matt Shade

Joined
Nov 24, 1999
Messages
4,981
It came today, they must have rushed the shipping since everyone had waited so long. Its only been about 2 days since they called to adjust my order ( the thumbstud I wanted wasn't in stock
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Anyhow, the important details are that this is an awesome kit for a novice or beginner. Or anyone that wants to make a knife for that matter. All the milling is done, theres no need for modifying anything to make it actually work. The parts are finished to the point where it won't take long for the final polish. And it uses all the hardware and pieces I've been trying to fit into the folders I'm making. Now I can skip all the trial and error fitting and do it right after seeing how darrel did it
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The profile on everything is awesome, this will be one great looking knife when its done. Great work as usual Darrel.

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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.
 
Cool. Thinking of ordering me one of those bad boys and seeing how it goes, but I might just jump in and make one from scratch
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Do both. I started making folders from scratch a long time before these even came out. Then I ordered one of these thinking it would give me extra help to go along with my books and everything,and would be an easy way to make a knife for my brother.


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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.
 
Good Luck With the kits !

I designed them to be easy to assemble.
There is an upgrade kit available also that add a backspacer and handle material that has to be finished.
I have put together several of them now to check quality. They all worked out of the box and the qc was class A.
Koval has asked that I desgn several blade shapes for this knife. Any suggestions?


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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
MADD MAXX !
 
Yes actually i do have a suggestion for a blade design, How about a reverse tanto design, as in the blade on the benchmade 940, does anyone know what im talking about? anyways i like that design alot.
 
Got my kit yesterday. Very good quality control as Darrel says. The blade opens nice and smooth and the pieces fit together perfectly. I already hollowed out a thumbramp area slightly so that the liner lock will be more accessible for closing and am now contemplating handle material. This is definitely the hot ticket for us newbies. Nice work Darrel and a big thank you!

BTW, What is the white washer material?

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Peter Atwood

email:fountainman@hotmail.com
 
I ordered one yesterday, And was just sitting down to ask about it guess someone beat me to it. And idea how long it will take to put one together from start to finish? As for blade types, what kind does it come with? For other styles I'd like to see a tanto, spear, or mod clip.
Brian

[This message has been edited by Saberman (edited 01-23-2001).]
 
Had a few questions about the oring.
The oring goes under the pivot screw.
This keeps pressure on the pivot and keeps the blade tight after washer wear. It also is a good lock washer so that the screw does not loosen..

As for blade styles.. I am told that we will do one at a time.

So what would be your fav?

Also when finishing the knife I would NOT put the oring in. This will allow the pivot screw to sit lower to accomadate the bolster finishing. When I was done finishing I would add it then..

Just my .02 cents worth!

On my folders I have went to the locking type
pivots with either an oring or a pressure washer of some type.

Autos seem to loosen quite often because of the constant banging. This helps then stay tight.


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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
MADD MAXX !
 
Darrel, warncliff blades are great for utility, also a spear and clip point would be great!
 
I ordered mine, and am waiting on the upgrade kits to come in. I was told that they should be in this week. I hope to have mine by next week. Looking forward to putting it togeather. Are there any suggestions as to the assembly? I plan on putting a hand rubbed satin finish on the blade and bolsters. Is there anything that I need to be careful about when putting this togeather? Besides losing any screws
 
For added blade shapes I think a clip point would be a good seller. It would be cool if a 50/50 or 60/40 partially serrated edge was available too. My brother is obsessed with serrations so I'll be filing them in on about half of the blade with a diamond file. I wouldn't want more than half the blade to be serrated though.

Did you epoxy the scales onto the kits you put together darrel? I'm using black G10 for my brothers knife and thought that screws alone might be enough since it isn't prone to warping. Does that sound OK to you? Maybe loctite on the screws?

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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.
 
Matt
Yes I did .. Just a little here and there in case I want to disassemble.
Another fix is to drill a for another screw close to the bolster.. easy.
If you lose the screws there is a screw replacement kit that is available also. I loose two screws per knife . I also like to use one set for assemble and one set after the knife is complete to make them look fresh and new!
The handle material backspine kit is coming in soon. It will have the scales cut (rough)
The holes drilled and crtbored for the screws and a roughed backspine. This adds a little more stabilty to the knife also.

Koval is making up several samples with ivory micarta, bone ect soon..

For the question about satin finishing.
In the pivot area where the washers run I would take very little material off the blade here. The blade thickness is very important and should be maintained. IF you choose to sand it kepp it very flat. I would Just tape off this area (where the washers and detent ball run)and finish around it for satin finishing. It will never be seen on the outside of the knife this way when opening and closing.




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Web Site At www.darrelralph.com
MADD MAXX !
 
Thanks Darrel
I'll rough out and drill the scales and then epoxy them on with the screws in to line it all up. Then I can finish shaping it without the screws in to avoid scuffing them up. I'm going to use black G10 and make an aluminum spacer, I'm not sure what alloy it is. Its pretty bright so I doubt its anything real tough like 6061T, but seems good enough for smaller parts. I'll probably do a bunch of filework on the liners and spacer to dress it up some even though my brother is stuck on the super tactical look.

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I may not be the sharpest knife in the drawer... but I've got the sharpest knife in the room.
 
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