Long, thin, quick khukuris...

Joined
Dec 13, 2000
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332
Once I get the money, my first-ever HI khuk is going to be a 16.5" WW II. But I must admit to a certain yearning or one of the quick ones as well. Between the GS, Kobra, and the Sirupati, most likely in the 15 to 18 inch range, which would be the "better" one for machete type work and light chopping? And what's the general thickness on these models? The more I see these fast little devils, the more I want one. They're sort of like a Ferrari... they look fast just sitting there. :~}

Thanks for the answers, guys.
 
For the work you mention, my choice would be the GS in that size range, and the Sirupati would be a close second. This is a lot like holsters - much depends on personal likes, etc. You will hear from the Kobra supporters, no doubt. The 15" to 18" blades are my size range. The handles fit my hand and the blades work better, for me, as they have a natural, balanced feel, and they are the easiest for me to carry. Blade style and weight, in that range, don't seem to matter. Spine thickness on the ones I have all run about 7/16" at the bolster. Nothing "cutesy" about these puppies :eek:
 
I second Walosi's opinion. ( I can't say about the Kobra--but I've got GS and the Sirupati). My GS is an 18" By Bura and it is 17 oz. and 3/8 at the spine. The GS handle is a little "rounder" toward the bolster and affords me a really good grip..An important thing when you can swing the shaving sharp thing and it makes the SWOOSH sound!

The Sirupati is a good design in it's own right and looks like it could do more heavier chopping chores easier.

HOWEVER, filling the "Need for Speed" the GS gets my vote.

-Craig
 
V Shrake, I haven't seen you post before - welcome to the Cantina! I have an 18" sirupati (about 23 oz) and a 18" Kobra that is heavier than most (about 20 oz). They both do what you're asking for well. I think a light weight Gelbu Special (even though I've never handled one) would be the ultimate for what you want. I'm sure someone with a light weight chitlangi will be piping up pretty soon!:)
 
Go by the rule of one ounce equals one inch and you won't "go wrong".

But more important is "going right" and I can't help you there. The right khuk will tell you when you pick it up.
 
Hey V Shrake,
I have a 20" cobra I bought as a machete replacement. Much heavier than a comparable machete, but highter and livelier than a sirupati. I have a 15" sirupati that I think is the best overall model of them all. Not to short, not too long, light enough to carry easily, good weight for a fighter, and still able to split wood. It does fall short in the machete category, specially if your trying to cut Pacific Northwest blackberries! Personally, I prefer a very light machete for that work. I did a comparison of machete vs GH cheetlang a while back - but it seems to have dropped off the end of the forums.

Here's the text - please note that this was a Ghurka House Blem - THIS IS NOT A REEVIEW OF A HI CHEETLANG.

Bill let me know if posting this here is a problem - I can always move it over to the GH forum.

Pat.

Cheetlang field review

Yesterday, I was working in the backyard for the first time in a while. I noticed that the blackberry situation was getting a bit out of control. The Himalayan blackberry (Rubus discolor ), for those of you who don't know it, is a particularly pesky weed here in the northwest. It grows fast, two weeks after cutting a path, you might not be able to tell anyone's been there. The thorns are nearly the size of a domestic rose, and curve back towards the stem. That's right, pulling away from it sets the hook. Nice. It does make excellent berries, however, and the canes fruit from late July to September.

As an ecologist, I spend a good deal of my days in the field chopping through thickets of this nasty stuff. Typically I use a machete with an 18" to 24" blade, and I wear leather gloves and canvas work pants. Yesterday, I thought I'd take the Cheetlang out for a field trial. Feeling adventurous, I skipped the gloves and field pants.

I used the khuk to cut stems, dig roots, and move the wicked, spiny things to a slash pile (for future incineration). I wasn't being too careful, as I wanted this to be a hard test, comparable to a day in the field or a survival test. Below are the results of about an hour's work clearing. The knife started with the factory edge, and no sharpening or burnishing was done during the field test.

Results

The handle wasn't as comfortable as I expected it to be. After an hour of cutting, the lower part of my palm had developed a severe hot spot. On the plus side, my forearm and elbow felt much better than they would after an hour of machete use. Technique may play a role in this problem. I noticed that the best grip seemed to be with the thumb and first two fingers up near the bolster, allowing the blade to swing freely from the wrist. This is not at all like using a machete, which swings from the elbow and is held rather firmly. Alternately, one could round the top of the buttcap.

The sweet spot was further back than I expected. This was a disadvantage for cutting the springy vines (I received several nasty scratches :) ), but it felt very good when chopping into the old seasoned stump in my yard. Low, scything cuts with the Cheetlang were very effective at clearing lighter vegetation like grass and lemon balm (one of the weedier mints). Unfortunately, they also increased the likelihood of hitting stones.

The bend in the Khuk blade makes digging roots difficult. The blade generally wants to turn out of your hand, rather than lifting dirt. This may be less of a problem with a shorter blade.

I hit a number of rocks and stones, both on the surface and buried in the soil. Several left small burrs in the blade, about 1mm deep and several mm long :( After I was done, I spent perhaps fifteen minutes with the burnisher, and several home made hones (200 to 600 grit). The spots are almost gone now, and the blade is quite sharp again. A burr in the spine (hey, I said I wasn't being careful) was easily removed with the burnisher. The plant juice and dirt left a dark patina on the blade that was easily removed with 00000 steel wool.

Conclusions:
The Cheetlang doesn't make a good replacement for a machete when cutting blackberry vines. It's a bit too short, exposing the hand and reducing reach. In cutting lighter vegetation, the shorter length and rigid blade work to the Cheetlang's advantage, where the longer, lighter machete blade is likely to bind. Neither dig very well, though the Cheetlang's rigid blade gives it the advantage here. This rigidity also gives the Cheetlang the advantage in cutting wood, a task for which the machete is nearly useless. Together, the two would make a formidable combination.

Overall, I was quite pleased with the Cheetlang's performance. It took hard use with only a little damage, and the edge was restored to good condition fairly easily. I may try this again (wearing gloves) just to make the test more even.

Patrick

Here's an update.
I took the Cheetlang out into a blackberry infested wetland area last week. As noted above, the Cheetlang was not at it's best doing trail clearing. Because of it's mass, it required a heaving stroke than a machete. Wearing gloves did make the grip significantly more comfortable, and this time I experienced no hot spots after about an hours clearing.

Carry: Man, does that thing feel great on your belt! It rides high and close, so you can hardly tell it's there.

I have a few cedar scraps leftover from a kayak paddle I'm making, so I did some splitting. I'm sure glad I put a piece of wood under the scrap I was splitting! The Cheetlang went right through the 10" 2x4 and put a good slice in the plywood underneath!

Patrick
 
Echo Rusty's words "Go by the rule of one ounce equals one inch and you won't go wrong." Which is exactly why I wanted that 18", 18 oz. GS by Bura the other day :)
 
Walosi wrote -

"You will hear from the Kobra supporters, no doubt."

You're hearing from them right now. Buy one...

IMHO, the Kobra is proof that you can take a 3,000 year old design and improve it, if you happen to have a very special flair for design. My all-time favorite, the 25" Kobra, is as light and quick as a shorter (say 20") sirupati, but it has the extra length and reach which makes all the difference, as Outdoors found when he was mano a mano with the thorny briars. You don't need to get uncomfortably close to things that scratch and sting you. Also, the extra length improves the handling, allowing for a faster, longer, more accurate swing. This in turn means you can deliver the maximum power to the optimum point of impact with the most efficient part of the cutting edge with the least effort.

Cutting things that flex and bend, such as briars and thorns and twigs and thin saplings, isn't like chopping wood or splitting logs. The stuff you're cutting moves out of the way; you waste effort bending a branch or stem rather than cutting it, and if you aren't very careful, the blade can be deflected, while still moving scarily fast, where you don't want it to go - your leg, for example. The balance and (for want of a better word) poise of the long Kobra means you're slicing rather than hacking at all that thin, bendy stuff; it gets the job done better, easier and safer. The long Kobra is also plenty tough enough to tackle heavier jobs, such as lopping branches or small trees; it's the one khuk that does it all, IMHO. Finally, its light weight and perfect balance make it very user-friendly; I have bad elbow and shoulder problems, but I can swing the 25" Kobra all day without discomfort.

If the job description is "machete type work and light chopping", get a Kobra, something between 22" and 25". The only downside will be the chore of cleaning rust off of all your other tools, now that you don't use them any more.
 
Wow, great replies, guys. Thanks a lot for your insights. It'll be a while before I indulge myself, but you've all made very good "arguements" for your own favorites. And it sounds like all of them would be a good choice, depending on what you were most likley to do with it.

Where I live most of the "machete" work actually revovles around cutting off dead, lower branches from Junipers, so the heavier duty aspect of the Sirupati might be the way to go. Decisions, decisions. But whichever one I get, I know it'll be a good one. And thanks for the welcome. :~}
 
Hi V.S. and welcome,

Like Rusty said, the weight to length ratio is important to watch, and you can't go wrong with 1"/oz. Even from khuk to khuk WITHIN THE SAME MODEL, you will see variations. Between one Sirupati(for example) and another, of quite a few oz. When buying a PGA or ordering one from Uncle this is an important point to consider. When reading reviews of a particular model try and find out its length/weight so you can evaluate what that really means. Tom's 25" Kobra may be light and fast, but if a Kami feels like beefing one up a bit it may change its performance somewhat.

you can also hit the search bar, type in the name of the khuk you're interested in (and Select HI forum) and then you can get an idea of what those models typically look/feel like.

BTW, I have a 20" Kobra(made by Kesar) that weighs 19.7 oz and it is FAST! Would make an excellent machete IMO. These have been coming up as PGA's "fairly" regularly so keep you eyes peeled and your finger poised above the mouse button:D
 
I might suggest to you a 21in Dui Chirra Chitlangi. I just recently posted a field report on it's effectiveness against wild rose bushes and thorny locust saplings. It's the best thing I've seen for this type of work. Machetes have a tendency to bounce off of hardwood bushes and shrubs because they have tough outer bark and springy cores. The Chitlangi has enough weight and quikness to snap cut right through them without being overly tiring to use. The 21in is none to long when cutting such thorny shrubs and I recommend you wear leather gloves. I didn't and 'paid the price'. :eek: :( :o

Pat Mc
 
Keep us posted on the outcome, Rob. We'll make it right one way or the other.

Will do, and thanks!

I posted the above just before heading out to test the above mentioned Kobra. I still think very highly of the Kobra, balance is excellent and I love the design. I'll know better once I check the hardness whether what I used it for was beyond its capabilities. If its as hard as should be then I'll know that its made for lighter duty sapling cutting and not limbing blue spruce:)
 
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