Look what I got in the mail!

[Flumph]

It's my first axe that I've owned, but I've used axes before. Ordered it about a week ago from Wisemen trading in Alabama, $86 shipped. The ice storm probably didn't expedite shipping at all, so I'm not unhappy. I'm pleased with their services.

The axe is absolutely beautiful though. It's a Wetterlings 26H with the 1.87 pound head. The grain on the handle is straight, the grind is nice and symmetrical, and the edge came shaving sharp (sharper than my knives!!! ). My only beef is that the head isn't perfectly aligned, but it's still very close. It's not bad enough to where it will deteriorate the function of the axe.

Snapped a few photos. I did a quick lanyard and wrapped the handle with a method that I found right here on bladeforums. I haven't had the chance to use it yet, but just holding it in my hands makes me realize that it's a piece of equipment that will last me a lifetime, and will never let me down as long as I never let it down. I need to read up on maintenance of this kind of axe. I'm picking up linseed oil sometime soon, since it has a versatility of use comparable to that of duct tape and paracord.

There are a few modifications that I want to do too. I have some cast iron letter-punches, and I'm thinking about stamping my initials on the cheeks. Alternatively, I may acid-etch a certain meaningful logo on it with distilled white vinegar. I've acid-etched carbon steel like this before, so it shouldn't be too hard.

Now, I haven't had a chance to handle a renowned Gransfors Bruks axe, but I can say that if you want a very nice axe but don't want to spend a huge amount of money, you will not be disappointed by a Wetterlings. Truly it is a work of art. Next on my list is a heavier, longer double bit Iltis axe.

Also, post pictures of your favorite axe in this thread and say why it's your favorite!

 

[larm]

nice axe,
ive never really used a axe for chopping down trees or doing work. i just use my axes for holding and looking at.
i would think this one here is my fav. i like to hold it, look at it, sometimes fondle her when i am alone.....

 

[Dusty One]

Nice looking axe......Have fun !

 

[Dusty One]

nice axe,
ive never really used a axe for chopping down trees or doing work. i just use my axes for holding and looking at.
i would think this one here is my fav. i like to hold it, look at it, sometimes fondle her when i am alone.....

She's a Big one......Nice

 

[Ballenxj]

Nice Axe. Wetterlings, eh? How long is the handle?
I've been looking at various axe's here on the forum while trying to figure out what might be an ideal axe for bushcrafting, or to have along "just in case."
-Bruce

 

[Flumph]

Nice Axe. Wetterlings, eh? How long is the handle?
I've been looking at various axe's here on the forum while trying to figure out what might be an ideal axe for bushcrafting, or to have along "just in case."
-Bruce

It's 26" total length, which is 2" longer than your average crowbar for scale. It's not too big, but not too small. Probably the only thing you really can't do with this axe is split really large logs.

In my opinion this is the perfect size for bushcraft, but many people swear by the 19" Gransfors axes. I just don't feel like 19" is enough leverage to do any real work though (cutting down a tree). It's not like it's much of a weight bonus either, since the whole axe weighs like 4 pounds. Sure, 3.5 pounds total is an improvement, but at what cost?

And Larm, that's a terrific broad axe. I'm eventually going to be hewing timbers to build a cabin, so I'll probably need a nice heavy broad axe, maybe with an offset handle.

This is getting expensive quickly :foot:.

 

[JLKII]

Having several Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlingss, I am of the opinion that you get about 90% of the quality of a Gransfors Bruks at 75% of its cost with a Wetterlings.

 

[Ballenxj]

It's 26" total length, which is 2" longer than your average crowbar for scale. It's not too big, but not too small. Probably the only thing you really can't do with this axe is split really large logs.

In my opinion this is the perfect size for bushcraft, but many people swear by the 19" Gransfors axes. I just don't feel like 19" is enough leverage to do any real work though (cutting down a tree). It's not like it's much of a weight bonus either, since the whole axe weighs like 4 pounds. Sure, 3.5 pounds total is an improvement, but at what cost?

I appreciate your input on this subject, and agree with your logic on length. Since I was also thinking of size for backpacking, I may have to think about owning more than one? Thanks.

Having several Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlingss, I am of the opinion that you get about 90% of the quality of a Gransfors Bruks at 75% of its cost with a Wetterlings.

That puts it into perspective.
-Bruce

 

[coloradowildman]

Trump, that's beauty, I just got one last month from Ben's Backwoods and it is a wonderful axe. It chops incredibly well for its size and is now my favorite 3/4 axe.

As for the 19" varieties of the Wetterlings and Gransfors Bushcraft axes, I did originally think the same thing, in that they were neither "fish nor fowl"- too heavy as a hatchet, too light as an axe and wouldn't split well, to quote Old Jimbo. Having really learned how to use mine over time though, I've found that it is actually a very good general purpose bush axe provided one is not trying to split huge logs, but it will split rather large 6"-9" pine logs without a problem one you get the hang of it. It's roughly 20 ounces lighter than the
26H, which is a bit of a difference when carrying a backpack up and over hills,etc.

I now understand why Ben of Ben's Backwoods and Ray Mears uses the 19" bushcraft axe over other axes most of the time, as once you get used to it it does have the interesting capabilities of using it as a hatchet for wood shaping and fine kindling while also possessing the chopping and splitting power that an axe has. That said, I still think the 26H Wetterlings is a better choice for winter trekking in snowy cold country or for car camping or in a vehicle\canoe for downed trees etc where weight is not as much of a concern, because the extra chopping and splitting power is enough to justify the weight when old man winter bears down on you

 

[Flumph]

Trump, that's beauty, I just got one last month from Ben's Backwoods and it is a wonderful axe. It chops incredibly well for its size and is now my favorite 3/4 axe.

As for the 19" varieties of the Wetterlings and Gransfors Bushcraft axes, I did originally think the same thing, in that they were neither "fish nor fowl"- too heavy as a hatchet, too light as an axe and wouldn't split well, to quote Old Jimbo. Having really learned how to use mine over time though, I've found that it is actually a very good general purpose bush axe provided one is not trying to split huge logs, but it will split rather large 6"-9" pine logs without a problem one you get the hang of it. It's roughly 20 ounces lighter than the
26H, which is a bit of a difference when carrying a backpack up and over hills,etc.

I now understand why Ben of Ben's Backwoods and Ray Mears uses the 19" bushcraft axe over other axes most of the time, as once you get used to it it does have the interesting capabilities of using it as a hatchet for wood shaping and fine kindling while also possessing the chopping and splitting power that an axe has. That said, I still think the 26H Wetterlings is a better choice for winter trekking in snowy cold country or for car camping or in a vehicle\canoe for downed trees etc where weight is not as much of a concern, because the extra chopping and splitting power is enough to justify the weight when old man winter bears down on you

20 ounces is surprisingly much. I expected half that. I'd be willing to exclude a few items from my pack, or skeletonize a few commodities in order to carry a heavier, larger axe. I'm going to be doing mainly car camping and hiking, but I live in Texas so the winter really isn't an issue. People freak out when it gets in the 20's here, and we have ice maybe twice or three times per year. We get frost, but ice is rare.

I honestly think the extra weight is worth it. If it bothers you that much, buy a lighter backpack. However, this is just my opinion, and to each their own.

I appreciate your input on this subject, and agree with your logic on length. Since I was also thinking of size for backpacking, I may have to think about owning more than one? Thanks.

I honestly don't have a huge amount of experience here, but my feeling is that the longer and heavier axe is more versatile and effective than the 19".

Having several Gransfors Bruks and Wetterlingss, I am of the opinion that you get about 90% of the quality of a Gransfors Bruks at 75% of its cost with a Wetterlings.

The GB Scandi Forest axe (comparable to the 26H) is $120 from Ben's, while the 26H is $80 plus shipping on both, so 75% is roughly accurate. I would also agree than any improvements that could be made on the 26H are marginal. They're still both beautiful axes.

I think the Wetterlings have slightly wider cheeks too, so they're slightly more appropriate for American hardwoods, and are more effective at splitting. I can only speculate on that though. If someone has a GB to compare it to, I can take a good picture of the profile for comparison...

 

[JLKII]

I now understand why Ben of Ben's Backwoods and Ray Mears uses the 19" bushcraft axe over other axes most of the time, ... snip ... that said, I still think the 26H Wetterlings is a better choice for winter trekking in snowy cold country or for car camping or in a vehicle\canoe for downed trees etc where weight is not as much of a concern, because the extra chopping and splitting power is enough to justify the weight when old man winter bears down on you

Ray Mears, who probably knows as much about axes as anyone in this forum <g>, says that he uses the 19" GB Small Forest Axe for most of his forest outings, and the 26" GB Scandinavian Forest Axe in the winter or in the boreal forest.

He has now come out with his own model, made by Gransfors, that is in between the two, having a 24" handle and a little over a 2.5 lb total weight. This design is supposedly as a result of his long experience with axes. An interview giving his ideas on his design can be read at http://www.raymears.com/blog/ray-me...sive-gransfors-ray-mears-wilderness-axe/1585/. The axe itself can be seen at http://www.raymears.com/Bushcraft_Product/814-Gransfors-Ray-Mears-Wilderness-Axe/. Cost is a little over $150.

I have the 26" GB SFA and the 20" Wetterlings Hunting (or Bushcraft) axe. I carry the Wetterlings for all but winter camping and car trips, and the GB for those. Both have given good service.

As you said, "it's a piece of equipment that will last me a lifetime, and will never let me down as long as I never let it down."

BTW, I use Birchwood Casey's Tru-oil on my handles: it is a combination of polymerized linseed oil thinned with mineral spirits and secret ingredients that gunsmiths use on rifle stocks that dries faster than boiled linseed oil. Put on a thin coat and rub it in well, and when dry, polish it with #0000 steel wool. Most gunsmiths use six or more coats on their rifle stocks but I have found three to four to be enough for an axe handle.

 

[Mossyhorn]

I agree with JKLII about Birchwood Casey's Tru-oil. I've also had real good success with clear Danish oil as well. You chose a truly great axe.

 

[JLKII]

Ben of Ben's Backwoods says he puts a coat of Sno-seal on the wood in the eye to protect it when standing the axe on wet ground or snow.

I have not had much luck with Sno-seal on leather (it didn't last very long, even when melted on), and wonder if it would prevent absorption of linseed oil after being applied, but I pass this tip along for what it's worth. I've also read of using clear nail polish on the eye.

The blade can be coated with candle wax or paraffin instead of oil if you plan on using it for food preparation. I suppose that a good coat of wax would also help it pass through the wood when splitting it. <g>