looking for a clear flexible glue/epoxy

timos-

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Oct 22, 2012
Messages
2,213
I am having some difficulties sealing the ferrule/tang area on my kitchen knives. Super glue is not ideal as it can not withstand flex nor does it cure, and it dries with a garish white residue. G-flex is a pain b/c it does not dry clear and its not very practical to apply in small amounts on a finished knife. I know some sort of metal with solder is the best option buyt I do not want to be limited to that. Ideally I could find a material that is both clear and flexible, impervious to moisture, does not need to be mixed (2 part) and can be applied to seal a joint area leaving a nice little fillet. Any ideas?
 
If is just to seal a joint space you could look at Bob Smith adhesives.

You could choose the best one for what you need,they do have flexible CA . Buy Insta Set to cure it and Un Cure to take away any white frosting they may appear.

Take a look at their "Insta Flex" glue
 
Tim, show us a picture of what you are trying to seal.
 
thanks for the suggestions. I am going to try that bob Smith stuff.

I can post a pic later. Basically part of my process of epoxying ends up letting the epoxy settle into the joint and I end up with nothing or very little right where the blade meets the handle. Then I always screw up my finish trying to get a nice sealed surface. It is especially problematic with carbon steel blades where the joint is tight and square, preventing a rag or what have you from drying moisture at the seam. Ill try and take a picture later.
 
I always grease up the outside of the "joint" with WD40 when I am gluing things up.
 
wellll, i did not quite get a close up picture but ill show you guys the knife in question. There is about .005 or so gap in some areas where the blade meets the kingwood. I got a pretty tight fit on this one but its not a tight press fit of course. So my trouble is that there is some moisture in this gap that I cant quite remove easily after washing. And now there is a visible rust in the area. Being a kitchen knife I cant put some of the more traditional protective waxes on there. I am going to carefully scrape out the gap and dry it with a hair dryer and then use a torch to carefully fill in the area with some beeswax first. Ill see how long that lasts and If it is not satisfactory I will try out the bob smith adhesives stuff. Thanks again all for your help on this.

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Is this is a reoccurring problem? I have a story for ya if it is. Years ago I was at one of our cowboy type shows. During some slack time I was visiting with another vendor, a good friend of mine. He specializes in making leggings and I make a lot of them too. Everybody tries to have their own unique little twist on things that may make your work appeal to the customer, just like the knife world. In leggings this is often the leg plate part that is unique. I had a pretty darn good design and it was appealing to folks. I sold several pairs that I know of just because of the shape of the leg plate. Here it is on the side of the leg, with the three conchos, on this pair of leggings.

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The problem I was having is these deals are often made for folks that really will use em, and hard, kinda like a kitchen knife. I was having problems with the tips bending back over months and years of use. Now they are sewn down obviously but they were still bending up. Thats what I was talking with my buddy about. Another friend stopped by. John is one of the top saddle makers on the planet. This is one of his work/everyday saddles that we own and my wife rides often. Imagine what he does when he's showing off.

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Point is when John says something about leather, smart folks pay attention. He talked about these points lifting a little on the leg plate asked me a couple questions and said: "Change your design." and walked off. I did. Situation fixed.

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No more tips lifting on these guys.

I've often felt that the front of the handle is the weak point of any long term knife construction. Moisture, gunk and life just getting up under there. Maybe extend your tang a half inch or so making room for a metal bolster that ya can peen on and seal with JB Weld/silver solder and then do your handle as you are showing? Just a thought.

Absolutely gorgeous knife by the way. Wow!
 
Nice stuff.
Seeing that saddle reminds me of when I make a western saddle from a Tandy kit back in 1969. It took a couple months of carving and LOTS of worn out fingers stitching it. I handmade the conchos from domed silver dollars. It came out pretty good. Think I had about $500 into it when done. I used it on a friends horse I rode, and eventually sold it to him. Back then I loved to make carved breast straps and other carved gear/tack like bridles, reins, halters, and saddlebags. I must have sold 20 or more end table lamps and bedside table saddle lamps made with a miniature saddle on the base and a western lamp shade on the bulb. The big ones had 12" saddles and the small ones 6" saddles, both with all the necessary tack. I wish I had hung onto one of them, they were a real conversation piece.
 
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Thanks Stacy. I once hand sewed up a pair of shotgun chaps including the full length zippers. I understand the sore fingers. Also convinced me of the need for a sewing machine.
 
Awesome pics and story Dave. thanks for the input. You cut right to the chase, it is a design issue. I am excited for my next few customs all have metal ferrules.
 
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