Looking for a custom handles for my knife

Translash

Doing evil things...
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
771
Hi guys. I am looking for custom handles (made of MICARTA) for my knife. It is ordered from nepal and the blade is very very good quality 5160 spring steel but the handles are terribly done. They are rose wood and pieces started to chip off during the first week I used the knife (I chop, bushcraft you name it). That's not the worst part. The handles slide back and forth while I swing, which pretty much necessitates a full handle replacement.

I understand the prices for handles to be redone are probably as much as the actual knife itself, but seeing that if I order another knife from nepal it would come with crappy handles, I'd rather stick with making sturdy handles from a custom maker nearby.

Dimensions:
12 1/2" overall
7" blade
5 1/2" handle

Pictures: (edit: I had to remove them from the post because they were so darn big --s orry)

http://www.picdrop.net/images/P1070247.JPG
http://www.picdrop.net/images/P1070243.JPG
http://www.picdrop.net/images/P1070245.JPG
http://www.picdrop.net/images/P1070244.JPG
http://www.picdrop.net/images/P1070246.JPG

Handle has 2 chips (one on each side) and the fastener missing (where the hole is)

I live in Nassau County, Long Island, New York -- willing to travel anywhere on Long Island, New Jersey (not too far out), NYC, Westchester NY, and possibly Connecticut.

I much rather prefer to travel to someone who could aid me and give me a hand rather than shipiping it out, so if anyone here is willing to help, I would be very grateful. Willing to pay.

Thanks!
 
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Someone has to say it... the blade is not, as you assert, "very very good quality". Personally, I think it would be a waste of money to pay someone to put a custom handle on this. Better you should use this as an opportunity to learn to make your own handles.

- Greg
 
How much was the knife? I'm thinking that new handles are going to be at least 10 times the price of the whole knife. That was not an insult, just my opinion.
 
duly noted guys. Knife was about 60 dollars but the shipping was an extra 25 so total 85 paid for the knife. It's probably not up to par with paul bos treated 5160 but it holds a good edge and does good chopping. And I have a Becker BK2 that does equal performance. I would like your reasons however for holding such low opinions of the knife.
 
I would like your reasons however for holding such low opinions of the knife.

Firstly I think it's just a rip off of a Tom Brown Tracker.
If that's what you want, just buy it.
http://www.topsknives.com/product_info.php?products_id=173&osCsid=ao5l0vi21aaop4m0c5shn0rfu7

Secondly, those designs were faddish and got some press, but in the long run I don't know many that really like it.

Thirdly, the knife itself has horrible fit and finish issues.
The blade has a mirror polish, but you can still see the scratchs in the blade and handle.
and that little tit where the wood broke off should just be ground off completely-imo


But if you like it, so be it.

I say you now have nothing to lose.
Give it a try yourself.
Rip off that handle material.
Get some abrasive paper and dowels and sticks and rub out the scratches and gouges you see.
Now that it's hard, it will take you forever.
Then get some micarta and shape it up yourself.
Stacy's instructions here will help
 
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A perfect knife to replace the handles yourself. Go for it.
 
OK i have decided to make the handles myself. thanks for the input guys! And btw the scratches are from hard use. i put this blade through chopping and batoning hell for the first week I got it. Not one chip though so i am happy about that. And the mirror finish is only because i sprayed it with WD40. It normally has a dull patina.
 
The scratches I'm talking about are belt scratches.

Look at the handle in this pic.
http://www.picdrop.net/images/P1070246.JPG
They run top to bottom in straight parallel lines.

and the rough grinding under the first finger groove.

I would think after a lot of chopping, the way the tang sticks out beyond the wood handles, you would get some blister/hotspots.



and since you are pretty new here, I'm going to hit you with this.



Have you seen this ?

The Standard Reply to New Knifemakers v12

The answer to a 13 year old student is different than to a 40 year old engineer.
We may recommend a local supplier, or you may have a helpful neighbour; but that depends on where you are. We have members worldwide.
Fill out your profile with your location (Country and State at least), age, education, employment.

Look at the threads stickied at the top; many are expired, but not all.

The basic process in the simplest terms

Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Website


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions by Stacy E.Apelt

The Things I Advise New Knife Makers Against-Printable PDF

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-Website

http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books

A list of books and videos on the KnifeDogs Forum
http://www.knifedogs.com/showthread.php?t=5285

BladeForums - E-books or Google books
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
These are clear, well organized, widely available and inexpensive too.

Knife Design:
On the Google books thread, you can find
Lloyd Harding drawings
and
the Loveless book with large variety of proven classic styles.
Google books thread


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith
An excellent modern book with colour photos for forging in general - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas- has 3 books on forging knives. Check for the cheaper paperback editions.
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF
It’s being reprinted now, you can get it for $20 ish


The $50 knife Shop
It confused me for a long time.
Forging is NOT necessary; you can just file and grind to create a knife (stock removal)

The goop quench is total Bull, commercial quench oils are available, even grocery store canola oil works much better.

Junkyard steels require skill and experience to identify the steel and heat treat it properly.
You can buy proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo very cheaply.

I like cable damascus, but that advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book.

The home built grinders are the best thing about this book, but there is now a huge amount of info for 2x72” belt grinders on the web, including free plans.


Videos

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days and you will understand it much better.
http://www.archive.org/download/gov.ntis.ava08799vnb1/ava08799vnb1_512kb.mp4

Many specific how to knifemaking videos are available, some are better than others.

The best overall Knifemaking video I have seen is
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

The best video on leather sheath making I have seen is
“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
-(Paul Long has 2 new videos, his sheath work is fantastic. I hope the videos are too)

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat.
"Green Pete" posted it free using torrent files.
Be sure to look at the other titles too.

Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB

You can see a list of videos and reviews at this rental company; some are worth buying, some renting…
They are slow to get new titles and wait times are measured in months,
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking


Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes… is useless for knives.
If you send out for heat treating, you can use O1, A2, D2, CM154, ATS34, s30v, 440C, plus many others.

If you heat treat yourself, find some 1070, 1080, 1084,
1084 FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated just for knifemaking.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Ph# 862-203-8160

You can find a list of suppliers here
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699736


Heat Treating
You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results, and avoid buying the equipment.

This PDF brochure gives a good overview
http://www.buckknives.com/resources/pdf/Paul_Bos_Brochure.pdf

http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

Grinder / Tools

Hand Tools
You can do it all by hand with files and abrasive cloth like the Green Pete video.

Photo of a nice bevel filing jig .
http://www.flemingknives.com/imagesPrime/FileStation/KPicB007.jpg

Entry Level Grinders
Many makers start with the Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00921513000P?prdNo=3

Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinders
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders

Mapp arm – Grinder Toolrest
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=466024


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone
Free Plans
http://www.dfoggknives.com/PDF/GrinderPlans.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder
http://www.usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages-p-723.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
Free plans
http://wilmontgrinders.com/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html
http://www.atlasknife.com


Buy the kit
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html


Safety Equipment
I have a sign at my shop door, “Eyes, Ears, Fingers, Lungs” as a reminder to take off jewelry and put on my safety gear.

Respirators

Those paper paint masks are about as effective as using a sock for a condom.

The minimum I would consider are the 3M and North silicone half masks;
even better are the powered positive pressure fresh air systems.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=788837
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=726309


V12 Edited dead links
 
I would like your reasons however for holding such low opinions of the knife.

Your pictures tell the story. I could edit the pictures and show you what I saw... and what I'm sure the others saw too. "Fit and finish" is one way to describe it... but the absence of fit and finish would be more appropriate. The areas that should be smooth are pitted, spotted, scratched or scorched. No time was taken to make this blade look nice because the maker wasn't interested in making it look nice... they were apparently only interesting in turning them out fast.

I'll be clear about the fact that I am not an expert on steel. Someone else might be able to look at the same pictures I did and tell you what the pitting and scorched areas might tell you about the quality of the steel.

- Greg
 
It sounds like you are happy with this knife, and that is great. It's not that hard to put a new handle on yourself and materials will be under $20. Follow the Link to Stacy's thread and have fun. you will enjoy the knife that much more after you put some personal time into it!

All the info you need is already here, just search or ask... Oh and fill out your profile information. Good Luck
 
I've seen this type of grind on other knives, the bi-level cutting edge where it looked like someone held the blade to the belt grinder without moving it. Does it have a name? What is it called?

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin
 
I've seen this type of grind on other knives, the bi-level cutting edge where it looked like someone held the blade to the belt grinder without moving it. Does it have a name? What is it called?

- LonePine
AKA Paul Meske, Wisconsin

Impractical.
 
It's a type of compound grind. While I've seen much better examples, I feel it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist, even when it's done very well.

I agree it's a good candidate for the owner to try his first re-handle project. Be careful, this sort of thing can get addictive :D
 
Impractical.

That too! I beleive it's called a compound grind, just two grind styles on one blade. While I've seen much better examples, I feel it's a solution to a problem that doesn't exist, even when it's done very well.

I agree it's a good candidate for the owner to try his first re-handle project. Be careful, this sort of thing can get addictive :D
 
Contact Justin Gingrich of Ranger Knives. He can do micarta scales for you, and for not that much. At least at one time he made me an offer that was very affordable. 1/4 the price of another knife maker.
I think you should try to make them yourself. It's a great learning experience.
Or, let it be, use the knife until the scales fall off, then try to find a much better made knife, from someone here in America.
Seriously, so many great companies, and many custom makers. Not all customs are over the top expensive.
Keep looking around here, you can find many great knives, that are affordable.
 
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