looking for a forge

F

FF_Drew

Joined
Jan 18, 2021
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8
(I know many, if not all will say to build my own forge, but I just don't understand the process enough to feel comfortable yet. If you can direct me to a good book or video I might reconsider)

So I chose the Atlas Anvil that the bladeforums community directed me to. It's time to look at forges.

After talking with several member of the blade forum community, I was really close to pulling the trigger on the Atlas Forge, but I'm worried about the opening size. I had wanted to work with some wider blades. So, i'm looking at Atlas' Firestorm 2, but at $400, it's quite the jump and there are a lot of other US forge-makers out there if you're willing to spend that much.

Any thoughts on HellsForge, Diamondback Forge or Majestic (I read that majestic changed their material thickness and it was causing catostophic problems. That was from 2018 post and i cannot believe that if it was a persistent problem they would not have had to change their design)...

I'm so new at this, I had to google refractory when I started doing my research, so ANY input would be welcome!

thanks

FFB_Drew
 
Top of my budget would be $400, as I would go with the Atlas Firestorm 2. I'm pushing things as it is going over $300.

thanks
 
I would stay away from the diamondback and hellsforges, they don’t look well built and you have no control of the burners. I also don’t buy into diamond backs claim that they have flux resistant floors, you can put hard firebrick floors in any forge and they will help when using flux but will eventually degrade and need replaced. I have several atlas forges and a 3 burner majestic forge that is now my daily use forge, the atlas are good forges and I liked how they worked, the majestic appealed to me when I went full time and started thinking about things like re lining and repair on forges, the cast refractory should last a long time if you take care of it but if you ever had to repair or replace the refractory you might as well buy a new forge I also wanted the ability to control how many burners I’m using which the majestic forge is setup for that, all you need is a piece of sheet metal to reflect heat back down the burner tubes you aren’t using and you can turn it into a single burner, double, or full three burner depending on the task. Most days I only need 1-2 burners but the third burner is really nice for heat treating longer blades. With either the majestic or atlas get some hard firebricks that you can put inside the forge to make a sacrificial floor for flux welding. The atlas with the round design is slightly harder to do that but you can shape a soft brick to put under the hard brick so it’s flat.
 
I have a 2 burner, knifemaker majestic forge. I haven't had any problems with it, but I use it 3 times a month at this point. I used it all the time when I got it about 2 years ago. I'm pretty sure it was less the 400 coconuts
 
I can give some feedback on the Diamondback forge (I had actually forgotten the name of it. I knew it was snake related.). I’ve owned their two burner forge for over ten years. The floor is not flux resistant. My only pattern weld attempt left a flux filled gouge in it. This was just a year ago. This is my main forge. I also have a hand cranked rivet forge I use from time to time. I will say, when the Diamondback forge gets up to heat there are no hotspots at all. I think this has to do with the small size. The one I bought has a small front and back opening. And it’s not that long. This proved to be detrimental to heat treating a large blade recently. My forge won’t do everything but it has lasted ten years and still works. This being said, I have everything I need to make a ribbon burner forge. Just have to get the motivation to do it. But I have this forge and it works just fine for me. Although I think a nice ribbon burner would be a lot better. I hope this helps some folks. I’m not promoting Diamondback forges. Just giving my opinion.

Jon
 
Sales pitch to follow: The Atlas forge was inspired by many discussions on this very subforum over a decade ago, with countless improvements over the years. Swirling chamber, front to back flame pattern make it as efficient as most blown burner forges. The chamber is very evenly heating without blocking off. The solid cast refractory with the included plistix 900F will last a LONG time. Flux being the achilles heel, many are finding that welding without flux is actually pretty easy. Need more heat? Partially blocking up the front with brick will get the forge temp well into the 2500° and you can actually sparkle your billets.

Big knives? A 1.75" pass through in the back allows even the longest blades to be worked. Very few knives are too big for the forge, but they do exist. I'm working on a forge for that, and should have them in product by April.

Now, if I had to buy a forge that I didn't make, it would be an NCTool Whisper series. They are the gold standard of efficiency and engineering consideration. My goal is to make forges as good as theirs. I think I'm getting close.

Every forged blade on this table was made in an Atlas mini forge, even the sword. One of my favorite bladesmiths, Bennett Snipes
101782337_1156704784667805_528511159523614696_n.jpg
 
I am somewhat biased since I had some design input and did testing on the Atlas forges as they developed. I can attest that you can do any bade you want with one. I have done small hunters, bowies, and swords in them. Charles has evolved his forges and burners as he learned more and listened to feedback.

Many people come up with an idea for a tool and say, "This is perfect!" Anyone who points out a deficiency or suggests an improvement gets the, "You don't know what you are talking about" treatment.
Not Charles, he listens and makes changes all the time to improve his products.

I always recommend a NC Tool Whisper Lowboy or one of their knifemaking forges for those who want the very best and can pay more for it, but dollar for dollar it is hard to beat the Atlas forges.
 
I'm sold on the Atlas. I made the decision to wait until April last night.. Its helps A LOT that Charles will get on the forum and talk and when I have a question he's responsive.

Being a rookie and knowing nothing, I was concerned about the no-flux welding, but trust the community when they say its not an issue. I love that there's a community that has way more experience than I do who's willing to share their experience with me. I look forward to a time when I can return the favor and tell the new guy posting equipment questions, "get an Atlas, they're amazing... been so happy with mine."

I do have concerns that I might want to make wider (not longer) blades. I'm going to sit patiently on my hands and read more, take some classes, start work on some stock removal to get my grinding skills up and wait for the Graham or Atlas ver.2.0 to be ready in April...

I really appreciate this forum and all the help and assistance I've been shown despite not yet having even swung a hammer.

Drew
 
Last edited:
FF_Drew said:
really appreciate this forum and all the help and assistance I've been shown despite not yet having even swung a hammer.
Click to expand...

So something you might consider as you get ready to start hammering...

Grab some modeling clay and your hammer, form the clay into a rough bar shape and go at it very gently with your hammer. Try to make a knife shaped object.

Modeling clay moves under your hammer very similarly to how hot metal does, just much much more easily.
 
I've tested and have been really happy with the Plistix 900F. It turns to a IR reflective ceramic that is about the most flux proof refractory I've ever seen. 94% alumina, and a very smooth texture as well. A bag or two is included with all my forges now. A little more work, but it's worth every bit.

Thanks for the info Stacy, it's fixed now.
 
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