Looking for a good inexpensive Axe, Hatchet, or Hawk

C

cgusek111

BANNED
Joined
Aug 13, 2007
Messages
450
I need one that is lightweight and something I don't have to pay an arm and a leg for. I'm not interested in Gerbers, Fiskars or Cold Steel hawks. I've used them and honestly don't like them too much. I wasn't comfortable with my trail hawk. Is there anything else you can recommend?
 
How do you intend to use it?
Example: chopping, hacking, general use, throwing, self-defense?
If general use, what would the PRIMARY use be?
 
cgusek111 said:
I need one that is lightweight and something I don't have to pay an arm and a leg for. I'm not interested in Gerbers, Fiskars or Cold Steel hawks. I've used them and honestly don't like them too much. I wasn't comfortable with my trail hawk. Is there anything else you can recommend?
Click to expand...
The Fiskars hatchets i have are about the most comfortable and durable hatchets i've tried, and inexpensive as well. What exactly don't you like about them? Is it their non traditional construction or is it an issue of ergonomics?

If you want traditional the Wetterlings hatchets are good, you can get them from a bunch of sellers for 30-60$ on ebay. Gransfors Bruks are better being the mercedes of the ax world but are 3-5 times the price of the Wetterlings.
Heres a good place to look for ax info
http://outdoors-magazine.com/s_topic.php?id_rubrique=20
 
If it was the only thing I had in the woods in a survival situation I would want it to be able to build a shelter, chop, be able to put an edge on good enough to skin game, etc even do some fine carving work. Basically an all around survival tool. Compact as well. I'm learning basically how to survive with just an hatchet, hawk.
 
What did you not like about your trailhawk? I am a hawk fan and a customer of Vector001. His handles (the length he champions) really change the feel of the trailhawk for the better in my opinion. I have not tried skinning with mine yet, but I can certainly see where I could. In my opinion a V ectorized trailhawk would fit your description. Of course nothing is completely perfect for every need.
 
Either a hatchet or tomahawk, apparently...
If you want compact, I would figure a 14" handle (the length of a VTAC)...
If you find one longer, the handle could be cut...

I have a VTAC and Fronteir Hawk that are both 14"... VERY handy!!!
I also have a few hatchets, but they tend to be heavier...
better for chopping, but less 'handy' as a result...
My choice (in your situation) would be depending on how far
I thought I would have to tote it, and how much chopping I
expected to do, and what type of things I expected to have to chop...
 
The Fiskars and the Gerbers that I had were not very balanced. I could swing the trail hawk all day, but the head kept coming loose and sliding. I went through three different handles for the hawk and had the same problem every time. I love CS, but this was a disappointment. Everyone kept telling me that the head would work its way up the handle and secure itself. I messed with this thing during two years of hiking and finally traded it a couple months ago.
 
I've just looked at everything that you guys have suggested and have narrowed it down to two: the Kershaw or Buck Camp axes. It sounds like a win win situation. Anyone have any experience with these? Thanks for the comments. I like the idea of high impact plastic. Both of these weight less than the trail hawk.
 
Well, if the head/handle interface is the trouble, give that Vector guy a ring. He has something like three different points of attachment between the shaft and the head on his modification. I certainly understand your disgust from your past experience. I don't think I would have had the patience to last two years.
 
I just bought two of Dana Turner's hawks and threw them with about 65 guys this weekend. I was and am really impressed with them. Very light, extremely well made and about $40. I plan on getting a few more.
 
Wetterling. Or, get over your stickershock and buy a Gransfors Bruks. I did, it was the right decision.

CHEERS
 
I bought a Wetterlings 16" Hunter's Axe and I am really pleased with it. I think it was a tremendous bargain at $30.

Stay sharp,
desmobob
 
Estwing. Inexpensive, tool steel construction, can be made scary sharp, and I never had to resharpen mine after 7 years of use.
 
cgusek111 said:
I need one that is lightweight and something I don't have to pay an arm and a leg for. I'm not interested in Gerbers, Fiskars or Cold Steel hawks. I've used them and honestly don't like them too much. I wasn't comfortable with my trail hawk. Is there anything else you can recommend?
Click to expand...

I can recommend Council Tool Co. line, especially their Hudson Bay axe with a sheath. http://www.counciltool.com/product.asp?item=17HBS18&ID=30

I have one that takes a good edge and holds it very well.

A tomahawk will not cut or split wood anywhere near as well as this small axe, as they tend to rotate in the hand when cutting and bind at the eye when splitting.

With the steel shank Estwings and such, you can't choke up on them to use to fashion an item out of wood and they are very cold to use in frigid temps.

The hollow synthetic handle models will often not be properly weight-balanced between the handle and the head and feel clumsy compared to a good axe design. Many of the modern wedge-shaped head/synthetic handle versions are too thick at the bit for good cutting and too thin at the eye for good splitting. They do carry well in a pack--which is also what they do best.

There is a definite reason the Hudson Bay axe replaced the tomahawk and became the instrument of choice for the North woodsmen. As a trekking tool it does most things better than hatchets, hawks, traditional Michigan style camp axes, or the new synthetic models. When fashioning an article from wood you can get your hand up behind the blade for controlled shaving. This style is similar to the Wetterlings and Gransfors Bruks who are some of the best axes in the world. If you want a cheap one of this style you may be lucky enough find a Norlund on Ebay or at a flea market that can be rehandled.

IMO you can hardly better the Hudson Bay style head coupled with a 18"-20" long handle as an all-round trekking tool. I like to thin the edge of the bit for better cutting, and polish the first 1-1/2" of the blade with a palm sander so there is no sticking. On my axe I replaced the factory handle with another one, as I don't like metal center wedges because they do not allow for cross wedges. I prefer to handle my own as I can get a superior fit to an assembly line approach. I let the wood stick out above the head about an 1/16"-1/8" as this gives extra flair at the top and helps to keep the head from slipping (like the Swedish axes). I properly fit the handle tight and use a wood wedge sized to the length of the eye and a bit short of the depth of the handle kerf. I also use epoxy on the handle, eye, and center wood wedge so every void in the eye and handle is completely filled. This goes a long way is keeping things tight. I use one steel cross wedge and place it so another can be added, if needed in later years. The handle should be oil-finished and waxed as it can be easily touched up later if dinged. An oil/wax finish is easier on the hands then varnish. I do use a lacquer on the ends to better seal out moisture. Additionally you can wrap the handle near the eye with Hockey stick tape. This tape is especially designed to withstand blows to the wood and adheres very well even in cold temps.

Or you can just buy a Wetterling or Gransfors Bruks. The GB is ready to go as is, but the Wetterling can benefit from a bit more thinning at the bit. There is a reason why these axes are more expensive--as they are hand-fitted as I described above.

The monetarily cheap route is to buy an old head and handle your own so you have good quality and little investment.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top