looking for a knife smith to build my knife...

B

big no-no

Joined
Nov 7, 2003
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44
I have an idea for a large survival knife, and I would like to discuss technical details and price with a blade smith that would be interested in such a project. So...any of you blade smiths interested?
 
I might be interested, post some specifics here or shoot me an e-mail. I'll help anyway I can.

Bill
 
B.Buxton:
Thanks for the response. These design specifications are just my idea at the moment and are subject to change if the blade smith has a better idea. But for now it looks like a 18" total length, 12" blade, 5/16" A-2 tool steel, canvas micarta handles, full tang with the tang extending 1/2" past the handle, and probably a drop point. What do you think?:D
 
Sounds very do-able, but I don't work with A-2 or know much about it, and sence I won't put my name on a steel that I haven't heat treated and tested with good results, that counts me out.. If thats the only steel you would be interested in for this project, then I suggest that you find a maker that has extensive knowledge with the heat treating of A-2. After all a steel is only as good as its heat treat.
I see that you have throught this project over and I would not suggest
that you consider changing to another steel to accommodate my methods. There should be a few makers on this forum that have the knowledge of A-2 and hopefully they will chime in and be able to assist you in your custom Blade. If I can be of any further
assistance please e-mail me.

Thanks,

Bill
 
no, I've got a bunch of A-2 I bought a number of years ago and I'm not going to buy any 5/16 since its not a steel I use much anymore. The heat treat is pretty straight forward. I've got a bunch of 1/4" in various width's and lengths if that will work for you. If your interested send me a drawing and I'll let you know if its something I would attempt to do. You can contact me threw my web page...... Ray
 
Thank you both for your replies. As far as the steel is concerned, it does not have to be A-2. I just like it because I have a Busse combat knife and I like the hefty feel of it. If there is another steel out there that is comparable and will perform well under the stress of chopping, then I would certainly entertain suggestions. I am stuck on the 5/16" thickness however. Would either of you consider buying a small billet of A-2 in this thickness, like maybe just enough to make this one knife? If not, what steel do you feel comfortable working with? I agree that most of the blade's performance comes from how skillfully it is heat treated. That's why I am not dogmatic about the A-2.
 
Ray does some fantastic work and he's got close to what your looking for in A-2 so I would suggest you send him a drawing. As for purchasing A-2 it wouldn't do me any good because like I stated above my knowledge of A-2 heat treat is none. The best I could do for you would be a blade out of 52100.

Thanks,

Bill
 
no, If your dead set on the 5/16 in A-2 send me a drawing before I say I'll do it or not. If its something I wouldn't mind attempting you spring for the steel. I'm not even sure where you can find 5/16 in A-2. I'm just guessing but I'm pretty sure if you do find any its going to be well over a 100 bucks. 1/4" is going to make a heavy knife as it is.

Bill, maybe he'll go 52100.
 
Thanks for the hot tip on the flatground website. Knowing that the steel is available solves one problem, and it was cheaper than I expected. With the prices I saw, it would be no problem for me to buy the steel and have it drop shipped to the smith. Before I do much else though I am going to do a little research and compare the 52100 to A-2 and make a decision about that. In the days to come, I will transfer my idea to paper and I will send it to any of you via snail-mail if you e-mail me with the address.
 
jpd, Never knew they existed. There prices beat the heck out of Admiral. Wish they had a bigger selection of steel....
 
Ok, I've made a decision about the steel. After some research on the subject, I have concluded that the 52100 is indeed the superior material for this project. Word is that Ed Fowler has developed a superior heat treatment for this particular type of steel. Does anybody know if this is a new development or is the method of heat treating 52100 pretty much common knowledge?
 
I don't know if 52100 would be a superior steel over A-2 as you stated, but it is a high performance steel when heat treated properly. I do a triple quench with my 52100 blades and have been very impressed with their performance. Now I've worked up my own techniques for heat treating 52100 by talking to and incorporating several techniques from other makers into my own. As far as stateing anyones heat treat superior over another, that would inquire taking knives heat treated from several different makers and then comparing them in a variety of similar tests, and then the blade lengths, thicknesses, grinds, tapers, bevels and sharpening skills would come into play as it would be very difficult to produce any 2 knives by hand that would be perfectly identical. The best I could suggest, would be to pick a maker that stands behind his work, then work out the specs. and intentions for use of this knife. Submit a drawing and then leave it up to that particular maker to do his best. Then if it meets with your satisfaction when complete, final payment is then made, with agreement between you and maker, that if blade fells because of agreed use, and not abuse, full replacement or restitution is made.

Hope this helps,

Bill
 
Originally posted by B . Buxton
I don't know if 52100 would be a superior steel over A-2 as you stated, but it is a high performance steel when heat treated properly. I do a triple quench with my 52100 blades and have been very impressed with their performance. Now I've worked up my own techniques for heat treating 52100 by talking to and incorporating several techniques from other makers into my own. As far as stateing anyones heat treat superior over another, that would inquire taking knives heat treated from several different makers and then comparing them in a variety of similar tests, and then the blade lengths, thicknesses, grinds, tapers, bevels and sharpening skills would come into play as it would be very difficult to produce any 2 knives by hand that would be perfectly identical. The best I could suggest, would be to pick a maker that stands behind his work, then work out the specs. and intentions for use of this knife. Submit a drawing and then leave it up to that particular maker to do his best. Then if it meets with your satisfaction when complete, final payment is then made, with agreement between you and maker, that if blade fells because of agreed use, and not abuse, full replacement or restitution is made.

Hope this helps,

Bill
Click to expand...
I THINK YOU HAVE FOUND YOUR MAKER FOR YOUR BLADE. BILL DOES GREAT WORK AND WILL STAND BEHIND IT!
 
Ok, the winner is...(drum roll please)...Bill Buxton!!! Mr. Buxton, assuming that the design doesn't change all that much from what I have stated in earlier posts, could you e-mail me with a ball park estimate as to what the cost of this project might be?
 
I haven't been watching because I don't do big knives so I don't even know who else was in the running. However, you did not loose on that choice. In fact you hit pay dirt.

RL
 
I agree, Roger. I don't know of ANYONE more concerned with the quality of his work than Bill. That's not saying most all aren't totally concerned, but Bill could be used as the posterboy.
 
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