I dont know a lot about the good and bad knife makers and know a little bit about the type of steel they are made out of. So im looking looking for a knife that is under $40 and has a good edge retention but also fairly good sharpenability. it needs to be a folder, linerlock, thumb studs or assisted opening. at least 3 inches of blade and good sturdy handle. I live on a farm so dont give me any of those strange looking ones with a lot of holes in them. I will be either wearing this in a pouch in in my pocket. So a pocket clip is a most, but if it is removable that is even better. So any suggestions would be appreciated.
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Looking For A Knife....
- Thread starter bobyaddy
- Start date
You can get the Spyderco Native for $40 from Wal*Mart. It has S30V steel (which is very good and usually only found on knives that are $100 and up), holds an edge for a long time, and is very sturdy.
For $40, I don't think you can buy a better folder.
Also look into the Ka-Bar Dozier knives (with various blade shape options), and the Benchmade Pika.
These are all lockbacks, though. If you want a liner lock, the first decent liner lock that springs to mind under $40 is the CRKT M16. But it won't hold an edge for as long.
If you would be willing to try a framelock (since it is basically just a superior version of the liner lock, you should), check out the Kershaw Vapor, Kershaw Storm, and the Buck Mayo Hilo and Cutback.
For $40, I don't think you can buy a better folder.
Also look into the Ka-Bar Dozier knives (with various blade shape options), and the Benchmade Pika.
These are all lockbacks, though. If you want a liner lock, the first decent liner lock that springs to mind under $40 is the CRKT M16. But it won't hold an edge for as long.
If you would be willing to try a framelock (since it is basically just a superior version of the liner lock, you should), check out the Kershaw Vapor, Kershaw Storm, and the Buck Mayo Hilo and Cutback.
I like the CRKT m16 style and all but ive been looking around is there a good knife under $40 that is made of at least 440c if not the aus8 out there it doesnt have to be any better than that because the one i have right now is only 420. But i want at least 440c not aus6. I like the lockbacks because that means one handed opening and closing.
They are very similar. A liner lock has a liner with a leaf spring, and a scale. On a framelock, the liner and scale are the same piece. That is to say, there is no liner since the scale itself contains the leaf spring.
They operate the same exact way.
The advantage of the framelock is that when you squeeze the knife, your hand makes the lock tighter. On a liner lock, the scale prevents you from squeezing the lock tigher and for some people, squeezing a liner lock makes it disenguage.
Also, since a framelock makes a lock from the "scale" and "liner", the lock bar is usually thicker. This isn't inherient, though, since there are many liner locks with locks thicker than many framelocks.
Of the knives I listed, keep in mind that the Buck Mayos and the Kershaws are framelocks. The Ka-Bar, Pika, and Native are lock backs.
They operate the same exact way.
The advantage of the framelock is that when you squeeze the knife, your hand makes the lock tighter. On a liner lock, the scale prevents you from squeezing the lock tigher and for some people, squeezing a liner lock makes it disenguage.
Also, since a framelock makes a lock from the "scale" and "liner", the lock bar is usually thicker. This isn't inherient, though, since there are many liner locks with locks thicker than many framelocks.
Of the knives I listed, keep in mind that the Buck Mayos and the Kershaws are framelocks. The Ka-Bar, Pika, and Native are lock backs.
what do you think about the m1603 http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/store_detail.html?s=CRM1603