Looking for a similar item to the Kuzan Oda tanto

Joined
Jul 31, 2022
Messages
149
I mentioned this in another thread (which knife do you wish you had), but I'm really looking for a similar blade. It would have a fairly straight back, small guard that didn't add much to the width of the knife as carried, and a neoprene or similar grip material. Here's an example of the real thing: https://www.arizonacustomknives.com/products/1054124/. It does not have to be exactly the same, and I can't afford the prices at Arizona Cutlery when they do get one as it's now a collector's knife. I just want a knife that will do the same job. It needs:

- keenly pointed blade (not the chisel point now described as a tanto), and a straight or slightly "Persian" curve to the back
- neoprene, santoprene, or similar handle, a bit of wasp-waist is preferred
- mall guard that's thin on the waist
- a simple sheath with a tab to keep it from migrating southward, with this blade shape there should be no problem of drawing knife and sheath so it doesn't need much retention in the form of straps, etc.
- a decent steel that's holds an edge, but above all, toughness is important but a balanced steel would be best. I'd prefer Cruwear but that isn't a deal-breaker, there are many great steels that are tough and still hold and edge. I don't imagine any imagined use of the blade would last long, as it would be a defensive arm for where firearms are forbidden.

Surely someone makes an affordable blade with that description. The originalOda knives are perfect for my purpose, but there are few offered and usually at ten times the fair price due to collectors buying knives that are no longer made. I'd go ~$200 for the real deal, but those auctions in that range are ended as fast as they begin, at least at Arizona Knives. I'd spend more for the real deal, as it was, to me, perfect. I'll accept less than perfect.

Now, my customary rant - the current chisel-point blades labled "tanto" are NOT tanto-like, not in the least. I've looked at hundreds of midieval Japanese tantos on display at museums in Japan and those elsewhere with provenance, and only a couple of suspect blades have had a chisel edge (and those tend to be closer to a wakazashi or short sword. That tip treatment was reserved for wakasashis and katanas and the even larger battle swords usd for de-limbing horses, with the point being that the weight of the longer blades caused them to stab with such force that the keen tanto-type blade would have likely chipped badly or be broken, thus the chisel blade tip for strength. If you've worked with any of these larger weapons, you'll realize that the extra weight, coupled with a two-handed grip that lets you throw your entire body weight behind it, exerts a tremendous amount of stress on the blade tip, something a needle point could not be expected to bear if it struck anything but soft flesh. Used one-handed, though, the true tanto was able to use that keen tip to achieve great penetration in unarmoured flesh, and to effortlessly slide into the chinks in Japanese armour. It was used more like a very short rapier or smallsword than as a battle sword. With most Japanese edged weapons before the World Wars being bespoke weapons, it's possible that there were some chisel-pointed tantos - I just haven't yet seen more than a couple in years of occasionally searching such images. I had a friend who lived (and died) in Japan, and he hadn't seen many of them either. Finally, I'll post a link to the most ready resource: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=japanese+tantos+in+japanese+museums&atb=v344-1&iax=images&ia=images. By all means, do your own research and prove me wrong, I'm always ready to learn. It isn't a crime to BE ignorant, but it's a shame to STAY ignorant. School me if you can.

OK, I'm done singing now.
 
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Maybe you'd like the Cold Steel Outdoorsman -

51eGwKLyy2L._AC_SL1000_.jpg
.

Old no bone beaker Japanese version -


DSC00220_zpsata3mqj3.jpg
.
 
I mentioned this in another thread (which knife do you wish you had), but I'm really looking for a similar blade. It would have a fairly straight back, small guard that didn't add much to the width of the knife as carried, and a neoprene or similar grip material. Here's an example of the real thing: https://www.arizonacustomknives.com/products/1054124/. It does not have to be exactly the same, and I can't afford the prices at Arizona Cutlery when they do get one as it's now a collector's knife. I just want a knife that will do the same job. It needs:

- keenly pointed blade (not the chisel point now described as a tanto), and a straight or slightly "Persian" curve to the back
- neoprene, santoprene, or similar handle, a bit of wasp-waist is preferred
- mall guard that's thin on the waist
- a simple sheath with a tab to keep it from migrating southward, with this blade shape there should be no problem of drawing knife and sheath so it doesn't need much retention in the form of straps, etc.
- a decent steel that's holds an edge, but above all, toughness is important but a balanced steel would be best. I'd prefer Cruwear but that isn't a deal-breaker, there are many great steels that are tough and still hold and edge. I don't imagine any imagined use of the blade would last long, as it would be a defensive arm for where firearms are forbidden.

Surely someone makes an affordable blade with that description. The originalOda knives are perfect for my purpose, but there are few offered and usually at ten times the fair price due to collectors buying knives that are no longer made. I'd go ~$200 for the real deal, but those auctions in that range are ended as fast as they begin, at least at Arizona Knives. I'd spend more for the real deal, as it was, to me, perfect. I'll accept less than perfect.

Now, my customary rant - the current chisel-point blades labled "tanto" are NOT tanto-like, not in the least. I've looked at hundreds of midieval Japanese tantos on display at museums in Japan and those elsewhere with provenance, and only a couple of suspect blades have had a chisel edge (and those tend to be closer to a wakazashi or short sword. That tip treatment was reserved for wakasashis and katanas and the even larger battle swords usd for de-limbing horses, with the point being that the weight of the longer blades caused them to stab with such force that the keen tanto-type blade would have likely chipped badly or be broken, thus the chisel blade tip for strength. If you've worked with any of these larger weapons, you'll realize that the extra weight, coupled with a two-handed grip that lets you throw your entire body weight behind it, exerts a tremendous amount of stress on the blade tip, something a needle point could not be expected to bear if it struck anything but soft flesh. Used one-handed, though, the true tanto was able to use that keen tip to achieve great penetration in unarmoured flesh, and to effortlessly slide into the chinks in Japanese armour. It was used more like a very short rapier or smallsword than as a battle sword. With most Japanese edged weapons before the World Wars being bespoke weapons, it's possible that there were some chisel-pointed tantos - I just haven't yet seen more than a couple in years of occasionally searching such images. I had a friend who lived (and died) in Japan, and he hadn't seen many of them either. Finally, I'll post a link to the most ready resource: https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=japanese+tantos+in+japanese+museums&atb=v344-1&iax=images&ia=images. By all means, do your own research and prove me wrong, I'm always ready to learn. It isn't a crime to BE ignorant, but it's a shame to STAY ignorant. School me if you can.

OK, I'm done singing now.

Thank you for the rant but that issue has been discussed endlessly.
As you correctly point out, not only were most (if not all) historical Tantos not chiseled at the kissaki, they were all flat ground.
The chiseled profile has come to be called the "American Tanto" design among the knife community.

Unfortunately I sold off my Kuzan Tanto 751 (deluxe version with guard) like 9-10 years ago.
v5ouU6.jpg

Jim Parker also sold a knockoff of the Kuzan Tanto 750 but those are probably even more rare than the Pacific Cutlery ones.
 
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Thank you for the rant but that issue has been discussed endlessly.
As you correctly point out, not only were most (if not all) historical Tantos not chiseled at the kissaki, they were all flat ground.
The chiseled profile has come to be called the "American Tanto" design among the knife community.

Unfortunately I sold off my Kuzan Tanto 751 (deluxe version with guard) like 9-10 years ago.
v5ouU6.jpg

Jim Parker also sold a knockoff of the Kuzan Tanto 750 but those are probably even more rare than the Pacific Cutlery ones.

I always find myself impressed by your expansive knowledge pertaining to this arena in our hobby!!!
I salute you sir!!!!!👍
 
Buck 124 frontiersman.
It is far to meet all of your requirements, but it is easier to find. Straight back with very light clip curve at the tip. Buck 420HC is known to be quite tough with ok wear resistance.

The rest of it might not be what you look for at all. The cruwear or similar as a requirement alone might make the knife out of your price range.
 
Thank you for the rant but that issue has been discussed endlessly.
As you correctly point out, not only were most (if not all) historical Tantos not chiseled at the kissaki, they were all flat ground.
The chiseled profile has come to be called the "American Tanto" design among the knife community.

Unfortunately I sold off my Kuzan Tanto 751 (deluxe version with guard) like 9-10 years ago.
v5ouU6.jpg

Jim Parker also sold a knockoff of the Kuzan Tanto 750 but those are probably even more rare than the Pacific Cutlery ones.
That's the knife.

The rant was because the discussion of tanto vs. American tanto probably occurred before I joined this forum, but I'm glad it's been discussed. I also apologize for ranting, the other main forum I participate in is prone to ranting, and I guess I forgot where I was for a bit. Mea culpa.
 
Maybe you'd like the Cold Steel Outdoorsman -

51eGwKLyy2L._AC_SL1000_.jpg
.

Old no bone beaker Japanese version -


DSC00220_zpsata3mqj3.jpg
.

Thank you for finding that for me. It isn't exactly what I wanted, but it's in a similar style - but it's too big for my purpose which is an easily concealed blade as backup to my CCW. The Japanese style is also the knife I trained with, along with a non-functional wooden copy of an "unfolded" Balisong. I liked the Japanese style blade and handle much, much better. I don't see how the San Mai (that's a Damascus like product, right?) can be made solely of VG10 steel. I though the purpose of pattern-welded blades was to combine a soft, springy steel for strength with a very hard steel that will take and hold a superior edge. I'm sure the answer's in this web site, but it's bewilderingly large and I'd appreciate someone pointing me to discussions that you think are informative. Meanwhile I'll be fumbling my way through different combinations of search words in hope of finding it myself.

In class we were told by the sensei to make/whittle a practice blade - not needle-pointed, but still he expected to see a point on the practice knife. The practice sticks in your head better when every stab your opponent successfully makes hurts a lot, and leaves a healthy bruise. In studying slashing attacks we were asked to wear dark clothing (gis or street clothes, most of us trained in BDU pants, t-shirts and boots or trainers. We then, before each contest, chalked the blades of our training knives. Doing that, you'll find out quickly why it takes a master's level of skill not to get cut in a knife-fight, and for the rest of us the best strategy is to be super-aggressive and not dance around with your opponent. Unfortunately I had to leave town to find a job elsewhere, and now that I'm back again I'm not physically fit enough to reskume training.
 
San mai literally means Three Layers. A hard core steel in the center and softer steel on the sides. The core steel runs right up to the spine and is visible.
Cold Steel offers no solid VG10 monosteel knives. It's not pattern welded like Damascus, it's laminated.
 
This is probably too big but check

KABAR Modified Tanto 1266​


I've been eyeballing that one for quite some time. It's much more knife than I can realistically EDC, but it has the overall blade shape I like for a defensive knife (I don't really want/need the top swedge, but that's just a quibble). The need to conceal it isn't because of the law, TN pretty much ditched all their blade laws a couple of years ago - but the public's perception hasn't materially changed. I don't mind a discussion with Officer Friendly as I break no laws knowingly, but I wouldn't be a good citizen if I alarmed others just because I legally can. Out of sight is out of mind for the most part, so although I can legally walk around looking like a mall ninja's wet dream, I won't as I care not to upset my fellow man. On the other hand, they don't need to know what kind of junk is in the trunk, so I conceal any weapons I carry.

That said, other than the thumb protector part of the guard on that Cold Steel model that I don't need, and the size which is difficult to conceal comfortably, that's exactly the shape knife I can use effectively. What's the old expression - you fight like you train? Even though my training is in my past, a lot of it sticks in my head because of the almost endless repetitions. I tend to draw cut with any knife, and unless it's obviously not the right technique for the job I tend to rotate a stab so that the flat of the blade is horizontal (so it goes between ribs). I'm also fairly protective of the edge, as draw-cuts require a sharp blade.

Thank you for finding that for you, I appreciate the effort.
 
I had thought that there would be a few if not many knives available thart were close to the Kuzan Tanto in size and design. Seems I was wrong.
Nearly all brands offer Tantos with the chiseled American Tanto tip,
However, I did find that FOX makes this Tanto with a 5.3 inch blade. Made in Italy, about $200.
-

Fox FX-634MOD Ryu​

3RLE1p.jpg
 
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Other ideas if you are handy:

Cold steel kobun, but regrind the blade and wrap the handle, or

A puuko and redo the handle, or puuko blades are available and you would need to make a handle - could use stacked rubber washers cut to your preferred shape - and then send it to a kydex sheath maker.
 
How about something like this top knife.....Its a custom kwaiken by Phillip Patton and just an awesome blade all around..... He's a maker here and easy to work with...IMG_20230226_030453.jpg
 
Other ideas if you are handy:

Cold steel kobun, but regrind the blade and wrap the handle, or

A puuko and redo the handle, or puuko blades are available and you would need to make a handle - could use stacked rubber washers cut to your preferred shape - and then send it to a kydex sheath maker.
.

8:12 - There's an Outdoorsman Kobun supposedly coming out this year.
 
I hope they offer a lower priced no-signature no-serial numbered user version. I'm pretty certain Cold Steel used that spine on one of the older Outdoorsman models decades ago. Not bad looking.
LwO7ly.jpg
 
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