Looking for a work tool

Joined
Nov 11, 2006
Messages
16
Howdy all,

I am a backpacker and trail maintainer. I am looking for a recommendation for a good work tool - hatchet, light ax, or tomahawk. I don't plan on fighting bears with it, throwing it at trees, or using it for combat in my real job. What I do plan on doing with it is trail maintenance, brush clearing, cutting stobs, chopping some small tress, pounding in stakes, skinning bark for trail blazing, etc. I have used a cheap hatchet and found it does a better job on a lot of these chores than a machete - so now I am shopping around for a tool to get when I get back from Iraq and get back to work on the trail.

I don't want it to weigh too much - but I also don't need anything so light it bounces off wood when chopping. Durability and weather resistant metal and handles are preferred. And on the handle, having a good grip is a must - had an accident with a machete once from loosing grip on it that was pretty bloody in the middle of nowhere. I'm leaning towards a Fiskars 14" http://www.pointshop.com/Mall/Catalog/Product/ASP/product-id/743189/store-id/1000010644.html or 17" http://www.pointshop.com/Mall/Catalog/Product/ASP/product-id/862025/store-id/1000010644.html
 
I'll second Gansfors bruck, i've used their wildlife hatchet for clearing scrub, small trees are no problem i've also used it in the wet and had no problems with grip.....however they do recommend not to use the poll as a hammer,i carry a rubber mallet for driving stakes.
 
The Fiskars hatchet is nice, I found I needed to re profile the head of mine before it actually became "useful"
Here is another to look at, Gransfors Bruks Small forest axe.. This is serious stuff.
http://www.gransfors.com/htm_eng/index.html

I'll second Gansfors bruck, i've used their wildlife hatchet for clearing scrub, small trees are no problem i've also used it in the wet and had no problems with grip.....however they do recommend not to use the poll as a hammer,i carry a rubber mallet for driving stakes.

Good call. I already have a Fiskars Axe, and have not been that impressed by the head for some jobs, the angle of the blade just doesn't seem "right". But I do like the durability so far.

I had never heard of the Gandfors, but based on y'all's recommendation I did some looking up. That Wildlife Hatchet looks like a real worker.

As for driving stobs - they are normally cut from fresh saplings to hold in a retention wall made from locust wood when building a log cradle for eroding side-hill trail. The work is not normally that taxing on the driver and they don't have to look pretty when they are in. I would rather have a tool with multiple uses than carrying a hatchet and a mallet for that sort of work. When you are already toting about 30 pounds in tools such as pry-bars, shovels, saws, pruning shears, come along, etc, you need to make every tool count.
 
The Fiskars 14" is a solid choice, however the grip can be a little slick, but easily fixed with some suitable tape. The edge will need some file work to optomize it to the wood type, but this is only 5-10 minutes or so.

-Cliff
 
The 14" Fiskars is nice indeed. Reprofiling it if needed is not bad at all becuase it comes with a usable profile. Gransfors Bruks certainly seems nice but can easily cost 2x-3x as much, once you find one. The Fiskars is widely distributed and easily replaced if lost or damaged.
 
I would recommend the Gransfors Bruks but not the small forest axe. That is a good choice if you need something easy to carry in a pack. But for real work, the Scandinavian Forest Axe is so much better. It can be used two handed and makes the small forest axe looks like a toy.

That is if you are using it for work. For play, the small forest axe is still better.

singteck
 
i just bought the fiskars hatchet 2day and also there full size axe. I just ran the edge of the hatchet down a dmt fine stone 3 times on each side and the darn thing will shave hair on my arm. These are excellent tools from what I have used them for today.
 
I've never tried to re-profile a blade. I do have files, diamond sharpeners, and a bench grinder. What would that involve for an ax or hatchet?
 
I had never heard of the Gandfors, but based on y'all's recommendation I did some looking up. That Wildlife Hatchet looks like a real worker.

As for driving stobs - they are normally cut from fresh saplings to hold in a retention wall made from locust wood when building a log cradle for eroding side-hill trail. The work is not normally that taxing on the driver and they don't have to look pretty when they are in. I would rather have a tool with multiple uses than carrying a hatchet and a mallet for that sort of work. When you are already toting about 30 pounds in tools such as pry-bars, shovels, saws, pruning shears, come along, etc, you need to make every tool count.


I guess if the stakes you're driving are not that taxing on the driver the wildlife hatchet would do fine . I only mentioned the mallet because the stakes i,ve been driving are usually 2" or 3" in diameter into pretty hard ground. But for what you've said i would give the hatchet a go, it's good to go out of the box.
 
Sgt Rock,
I've done a considerable amount of trail maintenance /instillation, both volunteer and paid. The most useful tool I have is a heavy Pulaski. I'm sure you know what they are. Look for a wide heavy adze end, and an axe head. They’re intended mostly for removing brush, and installing trail. They’re the tool of choice for wildfire crews. If you just need to blaze trails and chop stuff, any medium axe should work well. Maybe a 2 1/2 foot handle and a medium weight head. I only use a hatchet for backcountry travels; an medium axe really excels at the work your describing. Just out of curiosity, is this the same Sgt rock with the ultra light backpacking sight? As far as specific models are concerned, I have a preference for wood handels, with traditional heads. They have a better feel to them, and handels can be replaced easily, havent broke a good hickory handel though. Some fiberglass axes/hatchets dont have the traditional axe head; if you break those, you need to send them back to the factory to be repaired.,
Good luck
 
Sgt Rock,
I've done a considerable amount of trail maintenance /instillation, both volunteer and paid. The most useful tool I have is a heavy Pulaski. I'm sure you know what they are.

Yep. I have spent many days swinging with one of those. Both with the BMTA and the Tennessee Eastmen on Hardcore trail crew for the AT. When I need one of those, I just request it through the group I'm working with on whatever trail I'm working. I own my own mattock and that does the minor trail re-builds I have had to do along my permanent section of the Benton McKaye Trail.

Look for a wide heavy adze end, and an axe head. They’re intended mostly for removing brush, and installing trail. They’re the tool of choice for wildfire crews. If you just need to blaze trails and chop stuff, any medium axe should work well. Maybe a 2 1/2 foot handle and a medium weight head. I only use a hatchet for backcountry travels; an medium axe really excels at the work your describing.

I already have a Fiskers with the 28" handle. But normally when I am walking the trail doing my standard maintenance trips I walk with a machete in my hand to tend to the small stuff. But my experience doing similar work with a hatchet at Ft Knox when building trail was the hatchet did a better job and that is why I would like to get one - to be the primary tool in my hand to replace the machete.

Just out of curiosity, is this the same Sgt rock with the ultra light backpacking sight?

Yep, this is me. I have a similar thread going over at my site. But this site kept coming up with most of the hits when I was doing some web searching - so I went ahead and joined up here and so far it has helped.

As far as specific models are concerned, I have a preference for wood handels, with traditional heads. They have a better feel to them, and handels can be replaced easily, havent broke a good hickory handel though. Some fiberglass axes/hatchets dont have the traditional axe head; if you break those, you need to send them back to the factory to be repaired.,
Good luck


Thanks.
 
Sargent Rock,

Do you have a forum? If so I think I've been there.:thumbup:

Second, have you considered a khukuri? I find that the best for trail clearing chopping stuff up to about say 6" and still light enough to machete too.
 
Sgt Rock,
It dawned on me that a "woodsmans pal" might be of interest. It is basically short stout heavy machete with a wide hook coming off the edge. They seem to use high quality tool steel in the manufacture, thus they hold an edge very well. I've chopped through alders and maples with relative ease. The blade is considerably thicker than a standard machete and they excel at chopping small trees. I consider them a balance between a hatchet and machete. Anything up to 1-2 inches in diameter is very easy. Thicker than that, a hatchet would serve better. The hook is particularity useful for de-limbing small tree trunks. They’re light and well balanced and manufactured in America by veterans of the armed services. Here is the link http://www.woodmanspal.com/. Good luck in your search,
12GA00Buck
 
Fiskars makes a little billhook that would seem ideal for all your purposes with the exception of pounding on things.
 
Sargent Rock,

Do you have a forum? If so I think I've been there.:thumbup:

Yep. I use the same software that BladeForums does. But we talk more about hammocks, homemade stoves, and ultralight backpacking more than blades.

Second, have you considered a khukuri? I find that the best for trail clearing chopping stuff up to about say 6" and still light enough to machete too.
I've considered one, never tried one.
 
You wanna try one? I have a beater I could send you to play with to see if you like it if you send it back when you're done.
 
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