Looking for advice sharpening my S110v Para 2

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Nov 1, 2011
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I'm looking for advice on sharpening my new S110v Para 2. My instinct tells me to sharpen her to a mirror finish. I have a KME sharpener and can go up to 1.5 micron and will be getting .5 and .10 micron soon. I can't remember where I heard this but I remember hearing with steels like S110v for a user a toothier edge would work better. So what do you all say and why? I will be using it at work. Mostly boxes, zip ties, ect.
 
As a professional knife sharpener i would recommend u send it to me and in return I will send u an iou of whatever your choosing to be owed indefinitely post haste hither to ergo excelsior
 
I like mirror polished bevels but I like toothy edges. I just polish the heck out of my bevels and micro bevel with a coarse stone like dmt fine or dmt coarse.
 
I normally polish my edges with my KME rig. On a toothy edge, do you need to use more of a "sawing " motion when cutting or will that edge still push cut thin paper? I have no experience with toothy edges but I'm curious!
 
I normally polish my edges with my KME rig. On a toothy edge, do you need to use more of a "sawing " motion when cutting or will that edge still push cut thin paper? I have no experience with toothy edges but I'm curious!

Yep, sawing or slicing motion with toothy edges. Toothy also means different things to different people. For instance, some people consider 600 grit to be toothy while some consider it polished.

The exact grit of toothy has been a matter of some discussion in BF already. :D
 
Brown ceramic is also a nice tool for a final "bitey" edge, either the spyderco Profile (pricey but nice for volume sharpening) or a gatco dogbone.
 
Gale Bradley recommends to sharpen high carbide steels with a 400 grit diamond stone to get that toothy edge on. He says it would hold it for a long time at the grit.
 
So what are the benifits of having a more toothy edge with S110v? I am more interested in edge stability and toughness.
 
So what are the benifits of having a more toothy edge with S110v? I am more interested in edge stability and toughness.

it is how particle steel offer their advantages, by leaving nice particles of carbides at the very tip of the edge, if you cut them down too fine, you'll loose the benefit these steels offer.
 
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Which type of edge would be tougher when it comes to accidentally hitting a staple or does it matter? she has 19-20 dps bevel. I was thinking a polished edge would be tougher since the carbides are smooth and will not catch on something and tear out, or at least that's my thought process.
 
Which type of edge would be tougher when it comes to accidentally hitting a staple or does it matter? she has 19-20 dps bevel. I was thinking a polished edge would be tougher since the carbides are smooth and will not catch on something and tear out, or at least that's my thought process.
I've found with s30v a toothy edge holds up allot better than a polished edge. I usually stop 600-800 grit, and it will still push cut phone book paper and pop hairs. I'm likely going to take the same route with the s110v on my pm2. Although a nicely polished edge does look nice on a blade that sees very lil action, or on a Bushcraft knife, it helps glide thru tougher material.
 
Which type of edge would be tougher when it comes to accidentally hitting a staple or does it matter? she has 19-20 dps bevel. I was thinking a polished edge would be tougher since the carbides are smooth and will not catch on something and tear out, or at least that's my thought process.

I don't know man, but cliff stamp on youtube has loads on vids on thoughtful analysis about conventional steels vs modern particle metallurgy ones. One good point he made that readily caught my attention, was the fact that the carbide particles would hold in the ''bread'' of the steel as well as the steel could hold it of course. So this brought him to reason that conventional steels would hold just about as good of an edge as any CMP steels per say, and so his testing results provided him with that exact conclusion. I'm not gonna raise any quantum physics theories here to rationalize such results lol, but he clearly demonstrated obvious points none the less.

Simply put, High carbide steels should fare in their finest at lower sharpening grits then conventional steels, but that is mostly theory, and I do sharpen my edges at high grits myself, regardless of steels and as of late, I apply a high polish on the edge with a strop loaded with white bark's river white compound at 8000grit for what it matters. It got em at an even higher level of sharpness I tough possible :victorious:


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Send it to the ApostleP. he hates the steel but will put a wicked edge on it for a decent price.
 
I don't know man, but cliff stamp on youtube has loads on vids on thoughtful analysis about conventional steels vs modern particle metallurgy ones. One good point he made that readily caught my attention, was the fact that the carbide particles would hold in the ''bread'' of the steel as well as the steel could hold it of course. So this brought him to reason that conventional steels would hold just about as good of an edge as any CMP steels per say, and so his testing results provided him with that exact conclusion. I'm not gonna raise any quantum physics theories here to rationalize such results lol, but he clearly demonstrated obvious points none the less.

Simply put, High carbide steels should fare in their finest at lower sharpening grits then conventional steels, but that is mostly theory, and I do sharpen my edges at high grits myself, regardless of steels and as of late, I apply a high polish on the edge with a strop loaded with white bark's river white compound at 8000grit for what it matters. It got em at an even higher level of sharpness I tough possible :victorious:


.

Getting HCV steels hair whittling is not that hard. I just find it counterproductive to spend time getting them there when they lose that hair whittling edge fast.
 
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