Looking for bow recommendations

Joined
Dec 30, 2008
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Haven't had a new bow in a looooong time. I've basically lost touch with the companies, technology etc. I currently shoot a Martin Ted Nugent gonzo safari at 80 lbs. I'd like to drop down to maybe 60 or 70 lbs. 3-d shoots and turkey hunting. Looking for a compound. I've got a recurve already. What do you all recommend? I'm partial to Hoyt, always have been, but I'm open to other suggestions. Also not looking to spend a couple thousand, if I was I'd go buy a spyder!
 
There a pro shop near by? Go shoot a few and see what fits you best. Otherwise just grab a magazine off the rack and see what their "best of" list includes for your price range.


-X
 
Just bought my first bow in over 20 years, an Elite Energy 35 60lb. Very smooth, very stable. Not quite as fast as the Obsessions, Hoyts, or Bowtechs, but I like it very much.

I also shot the new Mathews NoCam HTR. If someone else had tripped the release I probably would not have been able to tell it went off. Completely dead in the hand (in a good way!). No jump, no shock. Amazing feeling bow. But pretty spendy.

Go to a pro shop, tell them you're in the market, and just have the owner keep handing you bows. Eventually one is gonna speak to you. Most any modern bow is going to be plenty fast, even at 60 lb. Think about how much target vs. field you want to do, that may point you to models with longer or shorter ATA.
 
I've been using Mathews for about 10 years now. I've owned 5 different models, and in 2012 I got a new Heli-M. It's a great bow. Very light, very fast, and very quiet.

The thing I like about Mathews is, with the solo cam design, they have a more forgiving valley. So many bows when you are at full draw have zero valley, and they always feel like they want to release and jump forward. Not a great characteristic for a hunting bow IMHO. Last season I was at full draw for probably close to three minutes on a deer, waiting for it to move for a clear shot. I was able to hold it during that time, with almost zero fatigue.

I'm not a speed junkie, but it does have advantages. I only have mine set at 62 pounds, and it is still very fast...

I've owned bows by Bowtech. Martin and Browning as well, and they are all great bows, they just have different characteristics. A bow purchase is something you really need to do hands-on, because everyone is different
 
Love my hoyt. If you dont need the best of the best of the best.......Get a lightly used bow, say 3 years old they seem to go for peanuts compared to new
 
ELITE , They're all I shoot, but as stated above, if possible go to a shop and try all the models and pick the one that fit's you the best no matter what brand it is.
 
Any of the modern parallel limb compounds are going to be awesome for you. I just got back into bow hunting last year, coming from 20 years ago having an old Browning compound, and was blown away by the changes. I settled on the Mathews/Mission Solocam myself (have 1 of each, Mission has same features, just no frills), but basically they are all fine I think.

There is an archery forum where you can get really good deals on used archery equipment, that is where I got mine from. Worth looking into to save a bunch of money.
 
Love my hoyt. If you dont need the best of the best of the best.......Get a lightly used bow, say 3 years old they seem to go for peanuts compared to new

Same thought here. Picked up a very lightly used Ross for 150 bucks last fall. Fabulous bow. Not quite as fast as the big boys now, but extremely light and shoots over 300. 150 bucks!! Crave I think. Fits me great and so smooth.

Doc
 
I have an Athens that I love, bought it a few years old at less than half price. You should really try to go shoot some bows to see what fits you right, and you shoot well. Most all of the newer bows are pretty awesome.
 
yep, find a place where you can shoot a bunch, and see what fits. A good pro-shop guy will be able to help you decide if you want to go used, or new, or last years model based on what sort of upgrades or changes you might want to make. A good pro-shop guy isn't in it for the sale today, he wants to be your source for all the stuff down the road too, so there are good guys out there. they tend to be the smaller independent guys. might cost a couple bucks more than the big box, but the help will be well worth it.
 
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