Looking for help cutting saw teeth

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Apr 15, 2019
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I have been toying with a design where I use a partial length tang that is inserted into a saw cut in a wood handle. Problem is there is no saw with the kerf I need so think I am stuck making my own saw out of the same stock I am going to use for the knife.

Anyone have advice about making effective saw teeth for ripping?
 
I have been toying with a design where I use a partial length tang that is inserted into a saw cut in a wood handle. Problem is there is no saw with the kerf I need so think I am stuck making my own saw out of the same stock I am going to use for the knife.

Anyone have advice about making effective saw teeth for ripping?
I'm not sure I understand you ? You are talking abut hidden tang design knife? Join two , or sand one which is thicker ,joint two and sand one of them if they are thicker ?? Do you have some picture ? What thickness you need ?
 
that would be because you want to use a "Broach" to cut the shape depth.
a "Broach" can be made from almost any thickness metal... just the last 3/4 -1 inch long does the cutting ////////_____________(((((((()))))))
i like to use a well made Rasp so i can cut on push and clear on pull i can make very square holes in handles.. but finding a "Needle Rasp"
was a big challenge... not i have several .. and built them a nice block to hold/organize them with good handles..
as Natelek said you can split it in two parts and work both halves then glue/epoxy it back to a solid..
 
my drill press does most of the material removal, and I made this thing from an off cut of the same knife I was making the handle for. I just used the edge of the belt to notch the teeth and then sharpened them once it was heat treated. Works ok, but next time I make one I think I'll temper it down some and pay a bit more attention to the teeth- make them a little more aggressive
P3OynEd.jpg
 
Have you considered a relatively inexpensive Japanese-style dovetail or razor saw? Rockler & Woodcraft sell several varieties, some with kerfs as little a 0.010. They make beautiful cuts. Depending on where you are in your handle construction, an inexpensive magnetic vertical saw guide may allow you to accomplish what you are looking to do.

Or, Forrest makes the Woodworker II -Thin Kerf table saw blade @ .078” for about $125.

Making a saw isn’t a simple affair. Making a saw that cuts worth a damn is even harder. I did what you are trying to do, but I did it by assembling two scales and an appropriately sized shim to match the blade thickness instead.
 
Have you considered a relatively inexpensive Japanese-style dovetail or razor saw? Rockler & Woodcraft sell several varieties, some with kerfs as little a 0.010. They make beautiful cuts. Depending on where you are in your handle construction, an inexpensive magnetic vertical saw guide may allow you to accomplish what you are looking to do.

Or, Forrest makes the Woodworker II -Thin Kerf table saw blade @ .078” for about $125.

Making a saw isn’t a simple affair. Making a saw that cuts worth a damn is even harder. I did what you are trying to do, but I did it by assembling two scales and an appropriately sized shim to match the blade thickness instead.
Thanks for the reply.

I have also used two scales and a shim, which works fine.

This project all started when I got a large box of Osage cutoffs that are just barely large enough for knife handles.
 
Seems like if you were going to cut the scales 3/4 of the way, it would be easier to just cut them all the way, and make a full tang knife.
I would think you could accomplish what you are trying to do on a table saw-very carefully.
 

Above was the first site I looked at, the second site has cheaper options

 
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