Looking for info on Microtech Marfione Anax

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Dec 29, 2014
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I can't seem to find the proper subforum to find info about these knives and the differences between the mid year made models and the December made models.

Can anyone point out the differences in both the Anax and the contents of the packaging, serial numbers, makers mark on blade, what about the heel? The original has a makers mark on the heel but can't find a shot of the second run heel. There are two daggers on the original (one Velcro and one on the lanyard/string) of the pouch.

Again if there is a better section then please point me to it and apologize if I overlooked it.
 
I have, and have had several Marfione Anax and all of them have the dagger on the lower section of the blackstrap. And since June 2014 all my Marfione pouches have the metal dagger pouch and a small dagger zipper pull. Only difference the the certificate of authenticity has changed from a steel cutout to paper. Hope this helps.

Phillyray
 
I have, and have had several Marfione Anax and all of them have the dagger on the lower section of the blackstrap. And since June 2014 all my Marfione pouches have the metal dagger pouch and a small dagger zipper pull. Only difference the the certificate of authenticity has changed from a steel cutout to paper. Hope this helps.

Phillyray

Thanks! I pulled the trigger on a Stonewash first run #32 since I wanted the metal plate but didn't get the zipper dagger. Was a bummer since thought it was surely intact on the paracord but the seller wasn't aware that it had been removed/not included. Oh well. The knife is very remarkable and is my first Marfione. It only has one small blemish on the lockbar side but I'll only add to that with use.

Can you or anyone else comment on the action of these? Mine is rather tight and requires a lot of wrist action to flick it open. I really like how there are so many options of opening it but it's super tight. Is this common and just needs some opening/closing to break it in or is the pivot just tight on mine? I haven't seen anyone do any maintenance on these and the screws probably prevent most from attempting I assume and if my pivot is overly tightened I guess breaking in won't help. Any tips for this situation? If the blade is opened and I depress the lockbar the blade won't fall or budge even with a good shake. I have to use a finger while depressing the bar the entire travel towards closing position. Even after getting it started to closing it requires assistance. It won't drop into the detent with a gentle shake.

I'm really impressed with it in general just trying to get a feel for how it should be operating now that I'm getting familiar with it.
 
Well I worked it for about three hours while watching tv throughout the week and it didn't loosen up at all so ordered three different spanner tools and clip pliers to loosen the pivot. I've managed to file some of these tools down to fit inside the pivot holes and loosen it up a tad but am confused as to how the pivots work/are assembled.

I don't want to take the knife apart or loosen the pivot any more than needed to have a smooth action. I've loosened up both sides of the pivot and loosening one side doesn't turn the other side so any advice on which side should move the blade to either side would be great. It's extrememly hard to turn the pivot with the tools I'm using so am moving very slowly. I will likely keep the knife and use it but scratching the pivot is very easy and would like to only turn the sides needed one time while keeping the blade centered. The very tiny amount I've turned each side has really changed this knife but could be a little smoother so would like to move the blade to the lock side with my next adjustments. I am guessing loosening the lock side will accomplish this but will wait till can get some more thoughts.
 
Well I worked it for about three hours while watching tv throughout the week and it didn't loosen up at all so ordered three different spanner tools and clip pliers to loosen the pivot. I've managed to file some of these tools down to fit inside the pivot holes and loosen it up a tad but am confused as to how the pivots work/are assembled.

I don't want to take the knife apart or loosen the pivot any more than needed to have a smooth action. I've loosened up both sides of the pivot and loosening one side doesn't turn the other side so any advice on which side should move the blade to either side would be great. It's extrememly hard to turn the pivot with the tools I'm using so am moving very slowly. I will likely keep the knife and use it but scratching the pivot is very easy and would like to only turn the sides needed one time while keeping the blade centered. The very tiny amount I've turned each side has really changed this knife but could be a little smoother so would like to move the blade to the lock side with my next adjustments. I am guessing loosening the lock side will accomplish this but will wait till can get some more thoughts.[/QUOTE



I have zero experience taking apart or adjusting an Anax knife. Sorry. But good luck and lef us know how it turns out.
 
Well I finally got it as smooth as I would call possible. Took a lot of filing the spanner tool to get a perfect fit of two pivot holes and blade is only very so slightly off centered to the non lock side, which it was from Microtech. This blade will now fly open from a bottom finger flick while laying in the palm, thumb flick, top flip with wrist action or glide like it should have come from the factory with such a high price tag.

For anyone not wanting to deal with the long wait times of their repairs center I can suggest tools like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004W...fgFRL&ref=plSrch#immersive-view_1423778001430.
 
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