And even though many of these may have been clarified, here's a quick answer to each of your questions
DaQo'tah Forge said:
I dont understand the shape of the blade BEFORE the heat-treatments start.
Straight, gentle distal and profile tapers, about 1/4" thick at the base, tapers to just under 3/16" at the tip.
DaQo'tah Forge said:
also, I would like to see how such H/T are done and about all that use of clay in the treatments.
Clay applied on rough-finish blade (rough so the clay adheres), scraped off near the edge. Allow to dry, fix where cracks form, bind with wire if preferred to keep it on the blade. Heat blade to austenitic, quench in warm-hot water. Stress relief post-hardening, sometimes these things can crack by looking at them within 10-15 mins of quench. That's the basic, you can get lots more complex.
DaQo'tah Forge said:
I also would like to know about how the blade is hammered to become that long, yet so thin?
Not very thin. Japanese swords are quite beefy and stout compared to other types of sword.
DaQo'tah Forge said:
what did the steel look like before that first hammer blow?
Traditionally
tamahagane was a hideous lump called a
kera. It would be hardened and broken into little pieces and sorted. Those pieces were sorted by carbon content (ranging up to 3%) and welded together as a billet. Several "layers" of assorted chunks can be used in one billet, and those billets are welded/folded together a few times. Lots of work
DaQo'tah Forge said:
what types of steel do guys use in today's world who make this long of sword?
10xx is by far the favorite. 1050 was promoted strongly by Bob Engnath and you can develop a nice thick active hamon on it without too much difficulty. 1095 is sometimes avoided due to its potential to crack in the quench and lack of consistent material. You want a shallow-hardening low alloy steel to display a decent real hamon with traditional techniques. Low Mn, Cr, and Ni would be ideal if you are going to perform
yakiire heat treat/quench. This means 5160, 52100, L6, S7, and other steels will not display much of a hamon using conventional methods. 1050 and 1084 are favorites, 1065 is popular where you can get it. 1086M is a modified custom smelt for Howard Clark that is used by him and Don Fogg and some others.
DaQo'tah Forge said:
Everyone always tells me that such blades were made sharp on a water stone. But I would like to know how? The length of this type of sword seems to me to be one tricky thing to hand sharpen on a small stone.
You use a bunch of stones to polish a sword. The first stones are a lot coarser than sharpening waterstones you see for knives and chisels, as they are for reshaping. The final stones are also very different from the waterstones for knives/chisels and using the latter will scratch up your sword. The traditional polishing process takes a very long time and costs a lot of money.
A set of even decent stones for Japanese polishing can approach $1000, I would suggest you do initial shaping and cleaning up (maybe to 220 grit) on a belt grinder, if you can control the lines and keep things straight and even. Then go with sandpaper and a hard block to continue refinement. You'll take the sword up to 600-1000+ grit and etch to bring up the hamon and activities. I think you've probably found information to help you with this on Don Fogg's page.