Looking for knife recommendation

Joined
Apr 30, 2003
Messages
53
I’m looking for a general-purpose hunting, camping knife. It needs to meet all the following requirements. The idea shape would be a clip or drop point, full flat grind, full tang, and have a synthetic handle. The blade needs be 4”-5” in length and be made from some type of carbon steel. No coating on the blade, the knife needs to have a satin finish. No convex grinds, no scandi grind, I want to use a spyderco 204 sharpmaker to sharpen it. Any idea as to what fits the bill? I’m not looking for a debate; just want to know what is available.

Thanks in advance.
 
Trekker said:
I’m looking for a general-purpose hunting, camping knife. It needs to meet all the following requirements. The idea shape would be a clip or drop point, full flat grind, full tang, and have a synthetic handle. The blade needs be 4”-5” in length and be made from some type of carbon steel. No coating on the blade, the knife needs to have a satin finish. No convex grinds, no scandi grind, I want to use a spyderco 204 sharpmaker to sharpen it. Any idea as to what fits the bill? I’m not looking for a debate; just want to know what is available.

Thanks in advance.

Check out the Fallkniven F1
http://www.fallkniven.se/a1f1/f1_en.htm
3.8 inch blade, synthetic handle, laminated steel

I have the A1 its bigger and an excellent knife, but that has a convex grind so wouldnt fit your criteria.
 
I love my Ontario TAK in D2. If you go bigger, say 6 inch, the Cold Steel SRK is a good option for weight and price. I have taken it backpacking all over the country.
 
Cold Steel master hunter might work for you. I have had mine for years and love it after modifying the handle and blueing the blade. they are cheap also so if something does happen to it your not out alot.
 
Cold steel master hunter, like SetokolJKH says fits ALL of your qualficationes, also there are a few Bark River knives fit your qualifications if you include A2 as "carbon steel " www.barkriverknifetool.com
Some of their blades are convex grind but you can easily sharpen in Sharpmaker, i do.
 
cold steel master hunter, if you wait a month or so special projects will be selling seconds, last year the sold for 32 bucks or so. i have3 bought a few of the seconds and would highly reccomend them, also if you dont like the craton handle it is easily removable, and you can put on whatever you want.

alex
 
Using the Sharpmaker standard will readily put a small microbevel on both those grinds, in fact it is likely to be easier than other knives as those types typically have acute edges. You can also just put the rods into the Sharpmaker and make a benchstone (as it shows in the video) and then actually sharpen the full convex and single bevel flat ground knives as well. It is a very versatile system. However if you don't want these for some other reason I'd take a look at Tom Krein.

-Cliff
 
Fallknifen S1 or if you think larger A1

the A1 (Blade 6.3 inches)

A1-web.jpg


the S1 (Blade 5.1) seems to be the best recommendation:
s1-web.jpg


get the satin finish and kydex sheath. These knives are just wunderful, they stay sharp, are made of VG10 steel which is close to a stainless steel but may rust (later than classic carbon steel) but it gets as sharp as high carbon steel.

Andreas
 
As I read your post my first thought was that you were describing a CS Master Hunter. Ghost93 mentioned the CS SRK which one of the best general use outdoor knives for the price, but is not a good cutter. If you remove the coating of an SRK and give it a flat grind and a distal taper to make it a better cutter/skinner you end up with a long Master Hunter.
 
I have had mine for years and love it after modifying the handle and blueing the blade.
Did you just use regular cold gun bluing?

if you wait a month or so special projects will be selling seconds, last year the sold for 32 bucks or so.
Is this a reference to the "Factory Seconds" at the Cold Steel site? Or to some other clearance outlet?

Right now, Cold Steel lists Factory Second Master Hunters for $44.99. I would love to hear where to pick them up for $32 or so.
 
Trekker,

You have eliminated a good portion of blades due to your exclusion requirements. Any reason why you can't A) remove a coating B) reprofile an edge C) sandblast a finish.

You are excluding good blades that can be fixed up to your requirements.

I would look for quality steel and geometry first and then make everything else happen after.

My 3 cents.

Skam
 
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