Looking for pointers on acid etching ZT0550

nattyboh

nattyboh

Joined
Sep 22, 2010
Messages
78
I bought a used 0550 that's been modded already. Its a gen2 so I'm guessing its the s35vn steel? The blade has already been stonewashed but I want to blackwash it. From what I've gathered I should get PCB etching from the Shack and mix in a 1:4 ratio w.water?

About how long should it bathe for?
 
nattyboh said:
I bought a used 0550 that's been modded already. Its a gen2 so I'm guessing its the s35vn steel? The blade has already been stonewashed but I want to blackwash it. From what I've gathered I should get PCB etching from the Shack and mix in a 1:4 ratio w.water?

About how long should it bathe for?
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I do 15min increments and wash the blade in hot water between each etching period. I usually do 2-3 etching cycles (15mins each) for a high carbon blade, and more for stainless blades.

remember to coat the pivot contact areas and lock face with nail polish before etching. Remember your removing microscopic amounts of metal with each bath. If you don't coat the contact areas it may effect lock up.

Also, you will not get the black wash look with pcb etchent. They achieve blackwash with dlc coating the blade and then aggressively stone washing the blade afterwards.

PCB etchent (ferric chloride) will leave a dark grey color. Especially on a stainless such as s35vn.

You may want to look into duracoating the blade black and then stone washing it. May give you a better result more like what your looking for.
 
Ahh thanks. I do like the gray look though too. But yeah I appreciate the heads up, I didnt know that.

What so you think about the blade stop ( I think its called ) its the the thumb stud that contacts the frame to stop the blade... I know I cant coat the thumb stud evenly with nail polish, so can I remove the thumb stud?
 
nattyboh said:
Ahh thanks. I do like the gray look though too. But yeah I appreciate the heads up, I didnt know that.

What so you think about the blade stop ( I think its called ) its the the thumb stud that contacts the frame to stop the blade... I know I cant coat the thumb stud evenly with nail polish, so can I remove the thumb stud?
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It can't be removed without a press, and even so, I wouldn't recommend it. Most people just etch it without covering the studs. That's what I would do. The studs will just look a little darker, and when you stone wash it, they will have that worn look like the rest of the blade
 
Spyder328 said:
It can't be removed without a press, and even so, I wouldn't recommend it. Most people just etch it without covering the studs. That's what I would do. The studs will just look a little darker, and when you stone wash it, they will have that worn look like the rest of the blade
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agreed, I don't think it will effect lock up if the studs are acid dipped too. Just Don't leave the blade in for hours.

You can mark the point of contact and just coat that point if your worried about it but if you do it may stick out like a sore thumb.

your choice. how do you plan on stone washing the blade? do you have a tumbler or are you using home made.
 
Oops I pressed out the stud, applied green wicking grade loctite ( for press fit items ) and I think all is well.
 
nattyboh said:
Oops I pressed out the stud, applied green wicking grade loctite ( for press fit items ) and I think all is well.
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as long as it holds its fine. did you happen to do the acid stonewash while the studs were out?

If you did I hope you used nail polish on the pressed fitting area.
 
I did use polish on that area. It did go in tight and like I said, I used green press fit/wicking grade loctite.

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I've done this on a couple, less expensive knives where I wouldn't be too upset if the project went bad. I used the PBC enchant as described, then some fairly smooth river/stream rocks. Put the rocks and blade (pocket clip too IMHO) in a sealed container then toss it in the clothes dryer for 10 minutes. Then check and repeat till you get the level of stonewashed look you're seeking. This method has worked well for me.
 
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