Looking for Road Trip Advice, CO-WY-UT-CO, to SUV or not?

[C_Claycomb]

So, I am trying to tick things off my bucket list. Last year I did two weeks driving around New Zealand in a little hatchback camping and fishing as I went (NZ Trip Log + Photos)

This year I am planning a more ambitious road trip for September to see a bit of the Western US. Start and finish in Denver, arriving on the 1st, leaving on the 22nd, and doing a loop up to Yellowstone then south through Utah to Zion, Bryce and Capitol Reef, maybe the Grand Canyon North Rim, then back east on i70.

My main interests are in camping, fishing for trout and getting as many photos as I can of epic US scenery! Not sure whether I will manage to do much backpacking, probably just day hikes. I don't much like busy camp grounds with RVs and hordes of people, so not sure how or where I will be staying. I will be travelling alone, which is great that I don't have to take anyone else's preferences into account, not so great that I don't have any one to help out if things go wrong.

Having booked flights, the next thing I am looking at is vehicle rental, and I could do with some advice. Is there any benefit to hiring a small SUV from one of the mainstream rental companies, compared to a medium sized car? Are there alternatives to the mainstream companies? What sort of vehicle would you be looking at to do this drive?

I had thought that something with some kind of 4wd would be a good thing (would have been handy a few times in New Zealand), but been reading that in the US most rental companies don't approve using their vehicles on anything other than tarmac, which makes me wonder what the point of an SUV is. In New Zealand lots of the side roads were gravel and the rental company I used took it as a given fact you would be driving all their vehicles on gravel roads. If you didn't, you would miss seeing half the country.

What are the side roads like in the Western WY / CO and Eastern UT area?

Love to hear any and all advice, on topic or off

Thanks folks.

Chris

 

[eisman]

If I wanted to see Yellowstone, and was leaving from Denver, I'd take the route to Casper, Sheridan, and Cody and in the east gate. That way you get to see the Bighorns and the Buffalo Bill Museum, and the east road to Yellowstone (while covered in switchbacks) has some great views. If you go out of West Yellowstone to Idaho Falls you'll get another great drive with incredible scenery.

Northern Utah sucks in the summer. Moab gets pretty busy, but Arches is one of the most accessible parks you can find. Plenty of camping around there. Take the time to go to Arches and walk out to Delicate Arch, it's an Icon of the American West. Zion is ruined; you cant drive into the park anymore, everything is by shuttle (think cattle car full of kids). Bryce is better; less traffic. If you go thru Monument Valley try to go early in the morning or late in the afternoon; the light is better.

If it was me, I'd do that, then see the North Rim and then head for Flagstaff. Then go over to Albuquerque and then back up to Denver. If you like dinosaurs there's the Dino Monument. You could also turn north in Gallup and head for Pagosa Springs and see the Continental Divide (the Southern one).

There's no need for a SUV unless you plan on doing a lot of backroads. Most everything else in paved. Make sure you carry a case of water with you in the car (just in case), it's deadly hot most of the summer.

 

[bdmicarta]

That sounds like an awesome trip but you didn't say how long you would be there. To go from Denver to Yellowstone to Utah to Grand Canyon could easily take 4-5 weeks. You could do it in 3 weeks but you would have limited time in each place.

Southern Utah and southwestern Colorado are my favorite places to go. I drive to either one from Texas. I've made the trip through southern Utah numerous times- Grand Canyon, Lake Powel, Zion, Bryce, Grand Staircase/Escalante, Capitol Reef, Natural Bridges, Four Corners, then back to Texas. Other times I go straight to Moab and spend a week there. Or I go to Durango, Silverton, Ouray for a week. I've also been to Yellowstone and Grand Tetons a few times. Yellowstone and southwestern Colorado are best in July or August, southern Utah is better in April, May, or October.

Side roads are fine for normal driving with any automobile. There are plenty of interesting roads in Utah and Colorado that require vehicles with higher ground clearance on up to full blown four wheel drive with low range gearing. There is plenty of camping available in all of these areas. Some of these areas such as Utah have a lot of public land available where you can camp wherever you want. There are also established government campgrounds that require a small fee, and commercial campgrounds. I've camped in Utah lots of times when I was mostly by myself, and I was in a campground one time where I was pretty sure there was no other person around for about 10 miles in any direction. But in peak times around Yellowstone it is hard to find campsites and there will be lots of people there.

There are many hiking trails available of various lengths and difficulties. In the national parks there is limited availability of sites for overnight backpacking but outside of the parks there are plenty of places to go.

I wish I could go with you!

More questions just ask, or contact me directly.

 

[C_Claycomb]

I only have 3 weeks to do the trip. Maybe could have stretched the start into August, but got to be back before the 24th September. We have pretty generous holiday allowance in the UK, compared to the US, but even so, taking more than three weeks at a time is tough to arrange. The choice of dates has been dictated by work, family and wanting to avoid the hottest and most crowded time.

The more I hear about Zion the more it sounds like somewhere to visit only briefly, if at all. Thanks for the advice!

 

[UffDa]

My wife and I have driven all over the western states in a Camry. We never had a problem even on dirt roads. I guess it depends on how far off the beaten path you want to go. In the parks you are pretty much restricted to the paved roads.

September is a nice time of the year to travel in the west. That was when we preferred to travel after the kids were out on their own.

 

[Roamad]

You'll do fine with a standard 2wd rental car unless you plan to visit more remote areas, like Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, which has become increasingly popular as everything else gets busier with tourists. Parts of that can be very remote and require 4wd, especially if you get monsoon rains, which are likely in summer. In which case, you won't need just a 4wd, but some rescue/recovery gear, like a tow strap, winch, gallons of emergency water, etc.

Here's a current road report, fyi, for that area. As you can see, they currently state that a 2wd is adequate for virtually everything AT THE MOMENT. This can change hourly, and a little rain can turn the whole place into quicksand. Where it specifies 2wd "high clearance", that means basically a pickup truck that's high enough to pass over large rocks, not a sedan.

But since you want to cover a lot of territory and see a lot of sights, you probably won't want to spend an entire day creeping along a dirt road anyway. So again, a 2wd economy car is probably fine for your trip. And if you're game, it's possible to sleep in the car on the vast areas of public land in those states, just by pulling down a dirt/gravel road into the trees. This will add to the adventure and save you money, too.

 

[darsk20]

Completed similar road trips in the past and every one has already given good info on routes and ease of driving.

I would add one thing and that is with the distances you will be driving in a day, especially through Wyoming, Idaho, etc I would worry more on comfort of the vehicle for long miles. Any car will get you where you want to be, but when you are spending hours in that car, comfort and ergonomics matter.

JM2C.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

 

[C_Claycomb]

Hi darsk20,

The comfort thing was another reason I was looking away from the sort of little hatchback I had in New Zealand and more at a small SUV. I have had a very limited car owning history, Volvo 240, Honda Civic 1.5l sedan 1992 build and a 2003 build Seat Toledo sedan which I still use, all manual transmissions. Apart from avoiding compact hatchbacks, any advice on what you think is a comfortable vehicle?

Roamad,
If I can pull into trees its gonna be hard for me to sleep in the car rather than rig my hammock That sounds the sort of trip I like!! We don't have public land here in the UK where you can do that legally. Of course trespass isn't a criminal offence here either, but I prefer not to annoy farmers.

I really appreciate all the advice and suggestions! I wasn't looking to go so far off the beaten track that I would need recovery gear, I definitely want to cover more ground than that sort of trip would allow, but its nice to know that a few shorter excursions away from the herd are possible without having to hire a full on off-roader


Cool photos eisman! I am having a lot of fun with Google Maps and Earth looking at places that people recommend, and trying to find scenic ways to connect them! I do see that for some of the places I will have to go through, scenic might not really be an option The huge sky country will be a novelty at first but I imagine that it will lose that soon enough.

Thanks!

 

[Roamad]

When you arrive, stop at every US Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management office you encounter. They can give you free maps and advice about where to camp, the latest road conditions, etc.

As for rental cars to consider, it sorta depends how much you want to pay. You'll pay more for a larger car, and the gas mileage will be worse, but you'll get more comfort. Here's the basic offerings from Hertz, one of the largest rental outfits in the US. Out of the choices shown there, the Chevrolet Impala is probably the most comfortable. But the smaller Toyota Corolla should be just fine, too.

 

[Scott Free]

I would want an SUV mainly so I could sleep comfortably in it. With that in mind, many of the campgrounds in the National Parks with grizzly bears won't allow you to use a tent. You need a hard sided camper (or presumably an SUV.) I realize you don't want to be using campgrounds, but even outside the parks, it's nice to have a secure place to sleep at times. Have a good trip!

 

[hose56]

Often there are unpaved mountain passes in some of these states that offer short cuts and added beauty. 4 WD SUV is your best bet IMO

 

[Bob W]

SUV for sure. Even if you're not deep in the backcountry, many Western US roads are unpaved and can become muddy and slippery if wet. It also starts snowing in the mountains by September. And you'll appreciate the extra space for organizing gear and perhaps even sleeping in the vehicle.

Australian car hire companies also say no unpaved roads, even if you rent an SUV. I figure, what they don't know...
Fuel cost won't matter much if you're going to be parked much/most of the time. Fuel is so inexpensive anyway, compared to England, you'll consider it to be practically free and wish you had rented a V10 Excursion.

One thing you should absolutely research, if you are on BLM land or Forest Service land you do not need to be in a campground. I despise campgrounds! That goes double for RV-accessible campgrounds. Motels without walls... But be aware there may be restrictions in certain special areas - no fires, overnight parking only in designated areas, or no camping within a certain distance of the roads. National parks, state parks, and national monuments are more restrictive.

Each national forest has a large map showing roads, geologic features, campgrounds, and popular hiking trails. These are about $5 each. There sometimes more detailed maps available for each ranger district within a forest.
The BLM has a series of maps that cover the entire Western United States, BLM Land Management Maps. They show every sort of public land, state lands, Indian lands, and private properties. About $5 each also.
State parks and other smaller properties, like wildlife refuges, are usually covered by simple map brochures that you can view online and download.
When in the States look for field offices and visitor centers.
The Public Lands Information Offices are good all-in-one places to stop. Not only do they carry all of the Forest Service and BLM maps, but they'll have information on nearby state, county, and city parks as well. The "inside scoop."
Each Forest Service ranger district usually has a visitor center/office, BLM offices are scattered about, and most national parks and national monuments have visitor centers. The staff are always friendly and willing to help as much as they can. These are the places to get up-to-date fishing reports, additional maps and brochures, and road conditions. But...
These offices aren't always in the most convenient locations or with the most convenient hours. If you come prepared with maps and some basic info on your own, it'll get you going right away without delays.

http://publiclands.org/

 

[Bob W]

In addition to the usual parks and monuments, don't overlook "hidden gems" of public land that are not advertised. BLM land, state wildlife areas, National Grasslands, wilderness study areas (actual wilderness that hasn't been officially designated yet), and national wildlife refuges. For example.

You've really picked the best time of year to visit. Either you planned that really well or got really lucky. In September-October the weather is mild, kids are back in school, ski season hasn't started yet, and there are no holidays. To avoid crowds even further, visit popular well-known parks on weekdays and seek out more remote and unknown places on weekends. :thumbup:

 

[Bob W]

P.S. Check out the Outdoor sections here at BladeForums for specific questions. :thumbup:

 

[sideways]

4wd is pretty much always a bad idea.

A long wheel base, a quiet cabin, and supportive seats makes long distance driving more comfortable. Make sure you get a vehicle with cruise control and keep the fuel tank topped up.

Bring water and a 12V phone charger.

 

[C_Claycomb]

Well, for better or worse I have booked an "intermediate SUV" through USrentacar / Alamo. Thought long and hard about cars, small SUVs and big SUVs and REALLY appreciated everyone's advice. I decided that as compromises go, this wasn't bad. Not real 4wd, but a bit more ground clearance than a car, and maybe soft-road all wheel drive. I am not experienced with real off-road driving and reckon that a more capable vehicle would at best be wasted on me or at worst tempt me to go into places that maybe I shouldn't. I missed the best deals by a few weeks too. A Ford Escape size vehicle was $200 a week direct from a US company when I started looking about four weeks ago, but the best deal in town this weekend was about $325pw using a booking agent.

Hopefully I will be able to fit in it to sleep if needs must. I was going to make a particular effort to avoid the Yellowstone camps that require hard-sided campers, but having options is always better than not.

...
Fuel cost won't matter much if you're going to be parked much/most of the time. Fuel is so inexpensive anyway, compared to England, you'll consider it to be practically free and wish you had rented a V10 Excursion.

heh heh. Hard not to think about fuel costs. Used to driving a 1.8litre getting 33mpg(US) at $5.50 per gallon. Its pretty hard not to look at hire car specs, all 2.5litre and up doing 23mpg or less, and not anticipate a case of severe wallet pain

Thanks for all the other ideas Bob W! :thumbup: Now that I have the flight and the vehicle booked I can get on with working out where I want to go. I'll definitely check out your suggestions! The range of parks and public land you have, and the various rules of access are a lot more complex that what we have here and without being told about them it would be very easy to miss stuff 'cause I didn't know it existed to be researched. Thanks again to everyone for taking the time to educate me some!

Time of year pick was not all that random. Knew I didn't want to be there for school holidays, didn't want to be there when it was super hot, nor have too much risk of winter setting in! It was going to have to be September or October. I would have preferred delaying my start and stretching into October a bit, but family stuff came first. Growing up in New York the clear blue sky days of September and October, after the humid fug of summer, were about my favourite, hope to catch a few like that on this trip.


12V phone charger, got Charges my camera too.
Water...got five or six litres of walking bottles and bladders, but have been seriously thinking of packing my 20 litre Swiss water bladder to just have in the vehicle. It weights a lot, so will have to think about whether it will be better just to get big bottles there.

When I think of some specific technical questions...water...shelter...bear deterrents, I'll take them to the outdoors area

:thumbup:

 

[Bob W]

heh heh. Hard not to think about fuel costs. Used to driving a 1.8litre getting 33mpg(US) at $5.50 per gallon. Its pretty hard not to look at hire car specs, all 2.5litre and up doing 23mpg or less, and not anticipate a case of severe wallet pain

My 6.8 liter gets 13mpg.

The range of parks and public land you have, and the various rules of access are a lot more complex that what we have here and without being told about them it would be very easy to miss stuff 'cause I didn't know it existed to be researched.

Even if you're visiting a famous national park you don't have to stay in their campground. There is almost always nearby BLM or Forest Service land where you can no-trace camp for free. It'll be more convenient at places like Yellowstone though if you stay in the park, simply because of the long distances involved.

And if you do go to Yellowstone, Old Faithful is famous and worth stopping at but that area is the most visited place in the entire park. Some of the other geisers are much larger and much more scenic but don't shoot off as regularly. Check at the ranger stations for these larger geiser predictions.

 

[eisman]

Don't bother packing water bladders, etc along. It's not worth carrying them thru the airport. Just buy a case of bottled water at a store once you get on the road. $2-3 for 5 liters in 0/5 liter bottles.

September would be a better time to arrive. Snow can start falling in early October in Wyoming and other northern areas. Also many of the services and areas you want to visit are closed or offer only limited access after Memorial Day (which marks the traditional end of "tourist" season). Also remember, if you plan on being in back country in SEP/OCT that is hunting season throughout the western States and has it's own issues you may have to contend with. Hunting in those areas is NOTHING like you would experience in Europe or the Eastern USA. Public lands especially become much more dangerous at that time of year for those without local knowledge.

 

[Bob W]

:thumbup:

The first stop I make on any long road trip now is a case of water bottles. Somehow filled bottles from home don't stay fresh for as long. And for $4 or less for a case of 24, it's hardly a financial hardship. The bottles can be recycled too.
If I were car-camping I'd want a large container or large blatter too, for washing and cooking. Bring your own or buy one at the first WalMart you see, just a matter of if you have luggage space.

Also many of the services and areas you want to visit are closed or offer only limited access after Memorial Day (which marks the traditional end of "tourist" season).

Public lands and all parks, at least around here, are open year-round. Parks may have a smaller staff and some campgrounds close for the winter months, but no land is off-limits. In fact it would be impossible to close a national forest or BLM, because there are no gates or similar infrastructure. Even during the gov't budget shutdowns all forest service and BLM land remained open and completely accessible - how could it not be? They'd have to hire an army of rangers to guard the access roads and perimeters, hundreds-of-thousands of guards.

There are roads in Colorado and the northern mountains that close for the winter. Probably not going to be an issue in September.

Some special areas can have seasonal restrictions for breeding or calving seasons. Overall this affects a very small % of land, and even then many of the restrictions are on the books for visitor safety only so they can say "we told you so" when some tourist gets trampled by an elk.

Hunting season is something to consider. Although I've rarely ever encountered a hunter, and have never had a problem, it's a good idea to pack some bright orange to wear. In the West hunters and outdoors enthusiasts are scattered over millions of acres; it's not like out east where large numbers of hunters are concentrated into tiny areas and bullets are whizzing everywhere...
Unfortunately it's difficult to keep track of because every state has different seasons for every species. And some states are divided into many "zones," each with it's own hunting dates, making it nearly impossible to figure out.
And something is always in season. Cougars, bears, small game, fowl, elk, deer.... a different season for every one. If you avoided public land during hunting season you'd practically never venture outdoors.

----------------------

If your trip is delayed until an October/November time period, to avoid the cold I'd simply pick more southern destinations. Arizona, southern Colorado, New Mexico, Utah, eastern California. But I hate the cold and avoid it when possible. Other people are perfectly happy snow-shoeing, ice-fishing, and skiing in the coldest months. I can't figure it.

Hiking in October in SE Utah, in the desert, our water bottles froze at night 'cause it was so cold. Beautiful days though!

 

[Bob W]

Is this a good place to plug my own state as a travel option? September-October-November is the absolute ideal time to visit New Mexico and be outdoors. Chaco Canyon, Bandelier, White Sands, Carlsbad Caverns... millions of acres of BLM and Forest Service land... mild temperatures... high mountains, deserts, grasslands, canyons, lakes and streams... and late-season fishing is spectacular! Cultural events... world-famous archaeological sites... historic sites... Civil War battles... Route 66... Native American pueblos... I could go on for some time.

Here is just a sampling of one small corner of the state: www.ratonphotos.com