Looking for some help with my buffer & best setup / process?

DustinY

DustinY

Joined
Dec 29, 2016
Messages
754
So, i'm finally back home after traveling all week for business. During this trip though i was able to stop by my brothers house and snag this tool that he picked up for me at the pawn. Honestly, i'm super excited, it fires up and is super quiet. The base is SUPER solid, so that is also a massive plus. It's a 1/4 horse - 1800 rpm which was recommended by everyone here.

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Some of the questions i have now are: what tool came attached to this? It's a chuck of sorts with something on the end? Bonus if you know what this is. And some 8-10"? loose wheel with a crazy attachment system? What do i need to buy to attach wheels to this safely & what wheel sizes / products do you recommend? Links to where and what products would be greatly appreciated!

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Last question i have is the process - take the steel / wood to 800 or 1000 or 1500 and then black / green / pink / wax? What're your all's process for a nice polish. I'll keep the wheels separate - so whatever i use for whatever compound won't mix & steel / wood buffs won't get mixed either.
 
Remove the loose buff. Buy Baldor left and right tapered spindles for the machine. These allow you to rapidly change wheels by simply "screwing" them on/off.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Remove the loose buff. Buy Baldor left and right tapered spindles for the machine. These allow you to rapidly change wheels by simply "screwing" them on/off.
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What Bill said^^^ www.trugrit.com carries these tapered spindles & buffs. Now! What buffing do you want to do? Steel?, Brass? Wooden handles? Also that loose buff is probably why this machine was sold. Very dangerous,
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
What Bill said^^^ www.trugrit.com carries these tapered spindles & buffs. Now! What buffing do you want to do? Steel?, Brass? Wooden handles? Also that loose buff is probably why this machine was sold. Very dangerous,
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This is what i was thinking, going to place an order now, any recommendations besides the tapered (and some stuff to try if i get no direction) will be purchased.
 
6-8” Muslim & or Sisal buffs for different for buffing compounds. Keep them in different plastic bags so they don’t get contaminated.. You need to get more precise as to what you want to do. ———-I don’t use a buffer anymore. Except for some handle buffing with Fabulustor ow ZaMM,,,white compound
 
Rhinoknives1 said:
6-8” Muslim & or Sisal buffs for different for buffing compounds. Keep them in different plastic bags so they don’t get contaminated.. You need to get more precise as to what you want to do. ———-I don’t use a buffer anymore. Except for some handle buffing with Fabulustor ow ZaMM,,,white compound
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Buff choils and spines, all stabilized woods, G10, and micartas.
 
For that buffer 6" is really the max.

The funny tool is an adapter for small leather wheel to buff inside rings.

As said, order L & R tapered spindles.
 
The larger wheels have a faster surface area, but are easier to bog down.
Anything larger than 6" will be taller than the machine (see current buff!)
 
Bill DeShivs said:
The larger wheels have a faster surface area, but are easier to bog down.
Anything larger than 6" will be taller than the machine (see current buff!)
Click to expand...

Bill, thanks for the help. I'll place an order and experiment with everything that everyone has said here. I'm assuming that the buffs i should be looking at are the pin hole - if i get the tapered attachments.
 
It is all about the power available to spin the wheel and how much drag the blade will put on the wheel. At 1/4HP, there is just enough power to spin a 6" wheel. If you put a bigger wheel on, the motor would stall as you pushed the blade against the wheel.
To spin a 12" wheel efficiently you need a 1HP motor.
 
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