Looking for some help with sharpening

S

Sojourner

Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
2
Hey blade forums,
This is a new venture for me. Im a complete noob and i don't own any fantastic knives. However, i use a pocket knife everyday, and ive grown tired of them getting dull (or coming dull new).

Right now I own a Kershaw as my EDC: http://www.amazon.com/Kershaw-Tanto...0811561&sr=8-21&keywords=kershaw+pocket+knife

So, this Christmas I decided to buy a stone: I got a 250/1000 whetstone: http://www.amazon.com/Kotobuki-King...1420811923&sr=8-1&keywords=250/1000+whetstone

And i bought a cheap strop: http://www.amazon.com/Hanging-Leath...?ie=UTF8&qid=1420811963&sr=8-2&keywords=strop

I cut the leather strop into two pieces and glued to each side of a board, suede on one side and smooth on the other. The leather kinda sucks on this strop, but i figured it would work ok to start....I haven't gotten any compound yet.

Ive spent the last week practicing, reading articles, watching videos of CarterCutlery on youtube, etc trying to use this method (although i don't have a 6000 grit stone): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xv3-Wa6XlTQ.

Im still struggling to get to that shaving sharp (not even trying for beyond that at this point). I know my knife having an odd shaped blade and partially serrated (plus probably not the best quality) doesn't help me, but id like to get this one sharp. Ive also been practicing more on an older buck knife just trying to learn the technique.

My Kershaw has a good looking edge on it atm, but its just not sharp (three finger edge presents no real danger). Im wondering if it has to do with me not getting all the way to the edge (as ive got a slightly lower angle than factor), and i don't know how to tell that ive gotten a good burr on the other side of the edge im sharpening? Also, when i move to strop, it usually feels more dull after stropping. I run the blade lightly on some wood after stropping on the 1000 stone, but im wondering if im removing the burr on the leather and thats why it feels more dull after stropping?

Sorry for a ton of information, im trying to lay out everything ive been doing so anyone who could help can get as full a picture as possible. Again, im a noob, but im desiring to learn this trade and to be honest, now that ive started it i can't let this beat me! I want to shave hair!

What would you suggest? Are there better videos? Do i need better tools? Is my knife just a piece of garbage? More than likely i suck at sharpening and just need practice. Thanks for any help!
 
Look at spyderco sharp maker, they have good video that should help out. Many use one with good results including myself. Try coloring both sides of the edge with marker pen ink and you will see when both sides of edge meet. Good luck.
 
I am sure some traditional sharpening experts like HeavyHanded, Jason, or Bluntcut will show up to answer your question more in depth. but in the mean time, it is my guess that you are not truly apexing your edge. No matter what system you use you have to make sure you apex your edge. This is why a burr ON BOTH SIDES is so important, it let's you know you have gotten to where you need to be and your edge is apexed. Then you simply have to remove the burr and you can progress up as high as you like.
 
Thanks. I read the "What is knife sharpening about" thread and that helped even more. Since I only have a 250, 1k and leather, should i start on the 250 and get the apexed edge there first? Then knock the burr off on that stone, check sharpeness, and then move to the 1k stone and repeat? Or should i start on the 1k stone since 250 is so rough?
 
Mr Carter obtains the levels of sharpness you see because he is sharpening very hard and very thin carbon steels. There is a world of difference between his knives and a kershaw blur.

That said, you should still be able to get a shaving sharp edge just not a face shaving sharp one. A 1k edge will feel a bit toothy and fairly sharp but I highly doubt you will find a dangerously sharp edge with that knife and that stone at your skill level.

If you can get it to shave arm hair and have minimal burr at 1k your doing good.
 
I just posted my thread regarding my first experience and maybe you can get something that will help you there.

I would say use the Sharpie method to let you know that you are reaching the edge and following the bevel.

Also, I had the same experience as you stropping in that I felt the knife get duller after stropping. My solution was to strop at a much lesser angle and much lighter pressure. The danger I think in stropping is that the stropping material, especially leather, curves up to the edge and rounds it.

I found that after my "official" stropping, occasional stropping on paper or cardboard against a hard surface took out any residual burrs and maintains the edge. For this, I would feel the bevel against the surface to get the proper angle.
 
Even stroppiong off the 1k, you will be lucky to make a real sharp feeling edge though it should work well for utility use. You might be better off stropping on plain paper using a fair amount of force - wrap the paper around a dry stone or other combination stone. If you're going to strop, it shoul dbe after using another stone in your progression - a 4k or 6k.

I highly recommend you stop learning on any knife you value and switch to something that is expendable. Kitchen knives are good to learn on, as they tend to be thin stock and low hardness - quick to sharpen and make a good burr.

It is essential that you learn to ID burr formation and understand how to remove it or at least make it extremely small.


This is the video for the sharpening widget I make, but has plenty of general freehand tips:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CXpMK7Lx8fA

At around 8 minutes in I stop to color the edge with a Sharpie, and at 10 I talk a little more about burrs and again at 26 minutes or so I describe how to use light playing along the edge to detect that burr. It will be a lot more difficult for you to detect them with your fingers as I demonstrate, you will need to do most of it visually or with a straight up three finger sticky test - the water absorbs into the skin of the fingertips and reduces sensation a little when using waterstones.

Martin
 
The tanto blade is difficult to learn on as well...if you really value that kershaw blur, I would just send it in to kershaw for sharpening...they are pretty quick on turn around times
 
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