I think there's some merit in that technique, for setting bevels at least.^
I still don't know if there's really a 'simple' way to learn it as a whole, to the extent it becomes repeatable and intuitive and produces good results consistently. So many videos make it look easy, and the basics of the motion and technique are pretty simple to understand, visually. But, the more I learn about sharpening, the more I realize how dependent it is on the 'feel' of the process via the hands and fingertips, to get repeatable, good results. And developing that feel, for me at least, took a while with lots and lots of repetition.
I might suggest starting with a simple blade & edge profile that's relatively easy to control and handle on a bench stone, like a kitchen santoku or medium-sized chef's/cook's knife (6" - 8" blade). It's easy to control a blade of that size with the 2-handed technique that seems most universal to sharpening in general. Use that circular scrubbing technique like your Dad used, and just focus on creating a flat bevel on a section of the edge at a time (heel, belly, tip). Watch how your hold on the knife affects the uniformity of the bevel, how the held angle affects the width & flatness of the bevel, and how the pressure you apply affects burring at the edge (more burring = too heavy with pressure).
Also use your 'off' hand to apply just a little fingertip pressure immediately behind the portion of edge being worked, for control. When I do this, I let part of my fingertip pad (index and/or middle finger) just 'graze' the surface of the stone immediately in front of the edge, and that helps me feel if the apex is lifting away from flush contact. For obvious reasons, one needs to be careful doing it this way, as it's possible to cut or pinch a fingertip under the edge if the apex does lift a little bit (that's a strong motivator to pay attention
). Watch how that fingertip pressure affects your ability to keep the bevel flush to the stone, and how that pressure affects the width of the bevel. Heavier pressure under your fingertips will create wider/flatter spots within that section of the bevel, and it's an obvious illustration of why it's important to regulate pressure consistently, when you see wider spots developing in the section you're working. Overall, it might leave the bevel shoulders looking kind of 'wavy' along their full length, when the whole edge is done. I point out all these things, because I've made these 'boo-boos' too many times, and I still do. Live & learn...
As for videos:
I still watch Jason B's videos periodically, as I've always felt his technique looks the most intuitive and fluid, with great muscle memory developed over years and years, and thousands and thousands of knives sharpened. That's what I'm shooting for, ideally, one day...
BTW, as for breaking in DMT's hones, they always get a little more consistent with some break-in time. But I seem to recall they even start out pretty impressively, straight out of the box, as compared to other brands I've tried.
