If you are interested, here is a very good
video of how Horween Leather (the world's leader in Cordovan Shell leather production) makes their product, from raw hides to finished shoes. You see every step in the Shell Cordovan production clearly demonstrated. I was fortunate to be given a complete shell of Horween Cordovan a few years ago... It really IS magnificent!
If it were me, I'd only use horse hide if I were making a strop to be used
without compounds. I'd make a hanging strop if I was going to be stropping a straight razor, or a bench strop if I was going to use it for my knives. I'd use 7/9oz vegetable tanned leather. Nothing thinner.
Best:
http://www.sheridanleather.com/Horse_Strips_p/3104.htm - large enough for half a dozen hanging and bench strops
Cheapest:
http://www.maverickleathercompany.com/horween/horse-butt-strips/veg-horsebutt-strips/
For strops to be used for general knife stropping
'with' compounds, hanging strops for convex edges and bench strops for flat beveled edges, I'd use 7/9oz vegetable tanned cowhide. You can find this in many different sources, both on-line and around most cities. A 12"x12" square with make 3-4 very nice bench strops. A hanging strop needs to be longer, perhaps 16"-18", but both should be at least 3" wide.
Tandy Leather is probably the most well known source, having both local shops and on-line ordering. 'HobbyLobby,' 'HomeCraft,' etc., etc., or a host of other craft centers all carry suitable leather. Just be sure that it is 'vegetable tanned' and at least 7/9oz thickness.
On line you can order pieces from Texas Knifemakers Supply, Jantz Knifemakers Supply, or a hundred different leather companies. Just do a search using 'vegetable tanned leather' as your search string, then look for the right size and thickness.
Once you have your leather, remember that it's up to you to 'process' it into a good quality strop. (Called'casing' leather)
Wet the leather on both sides in the sink, just for a few seconds, then let it dry for an hour or two. It will be almost as pliable as modeling clay. Then using some sort of rolling pin or smooth pipe, roll and compress the leather over and over on a smooth, hard surface. Do this for as long as you can... 15 minutes is good, 30 minutes is better. If you have the determination, do it for 45 minutes and you'll have a strop that's better than almost anything you can purchase for under $100! (You can see this being done to the Shells in the Horween video, using a machine to do the rolling.) Set the leather aside to dry for 2-3 days while you make the base (or hanging hook and handle,) then using ordinary contact cement,
(apply a thin layer to BOTH the rough side of the leather and the top of the base, let it dry for 15-20 minutes, then press together and roll on it to really set the bond,) glue it to the base and let it dry. Trim it to size. Then use 3-4 pea sized 'dots' of ordinary shoe cream (NOT shoe polish or wax!) that you can buy in any shoe store, department store, Walmart, Target, most supermarkets, etc., rub the cream into the surface of the leather. Rub it in well using the heel of your hand. Let the strop sit over night, then using a clean cloth gently rub off any excess cream. The End.
You now have a strop (or three) better than 98% of those being sold anywhere for any amount of money! It's as simple as that!
The right leather is important.
The right processing is even MORE important.
Once or twice (only!) a year re-do the shoe cream treatment and your strop will be something to pass down to your grandkids!
Stitchawl
