Looking to start working with bone, horn and antlers eventually. Advice and tips requested from those with experience.

Joined
Jul 2, 2009
Messages
1,176
Hey all - I would like to start experimenting with bone, horn and antler scales. I primarily make full tang knives so I would be making items in scale construction. I would really appreciate any helpful tips you can provide on precautions, techniques, best practice's, best method of cutting/shaping, flattening scales and epoxy recommendations. Hoping to avoid common pitfalls with any advice you can provide. Thanks all.

Hope to eventualy work with the following at some point:
Buffalo horn
Goat horn
Deer/elk antler
Camel Bone
 
In demand for sure but wear a respirator and have good ventilation. From my understanding long term exposure could lead to cancer...
 
Wear a respirator. They all make fine dust. While not toxic, it is unpleasant, and no dust is good to breathe.

Be prepared for the smell - they STINK while grinding.

Go slow and use fresh sharp belts. Don't let it get hot or it will crack (sooner or later). Avoid dipping in water.

As Bill pointed out, thin from the backside to leave most of the surface. Once just about there carefully smooth the surface to get it to 400 grit or finer.

Fill cracks and splits with thin or medium CA. Sand down after it is fully cured.
 
Buffalow horn is soft, skip it.
Work slow, wear a resperator and don't be afraight to use hand tools. Fast machines enable fast mistakes.
Bone can be beautiful when jigged
Dang......I was really hoping the buffalo horn was a good option.
 
It is OK to use, just not a hard material. You can buff it very shiny easily. It will dull with use but can be rebuffed easily. I use it on Japanese knife hardware and some folders.
 
Buffalo and sheep horn is nice but it'll warp, especially if it gets overly hot. If you use it be sure to rivet it well, don't rely on just epoxy. I'd recommend using both. Antler is very stable, as is camel bone. Be wary of elk as it can be very pithy.


Himalayan Ram's Horn:
Albers Cutlery Himalayan Ram's Horn.jpg



Sheep Horn:
Albers Cutlery Sheep Horn.jpg



Antler:
Albers Cutlery Mule Deer A Sheath Knife.jpg


Buffalo Horn With Bark:
Albers Cutlery Black Exterior Buffalo with Bark Sheath Knife.jpg


Eric
 

Attachments

  • Albers Cutlery Mule Deer B Sheath Knife.jpg
    Albers Cutlery Mule Deer B Sheath Knife.jpg
    236.6 KB · Views: 2
Buffalo and sheep horn is nice but it'll warp, especially if it gets overly hot. If you use it be sure to rivet it well, don't rely on just epoxy. I'd recommend using both. Antler is very stable, as is camel bone. Be wary of elk as it can be very pithy.


Himalayan Ram's Horn:
View attachment 2233236



Sheep Horn:
View attachment 2233237



Antler:
View attachment 2233238


Buffalo Horn With Bark:
View attachment 2233239


Eric
Absolutely stunning work - they all look fantastic! In addition to the mechanical fasteners what type of epoxy do you use? I typically use G-Flex 650 and assume this would work for this application as well....
 
Yes I use 650 as well. Those rivets are all compression rivets. On smooth handles such as wood or bone I use corby bolts. Careful that you don't let the corby bolts get too hot when you grind them down.

Eric
 
Buffalo horn of the materials you mentioned has the most tendency to want to return to its original curved shape. Sheephorn less so, Ramshorn even less. While elk can be pithy as someone mentioned above when made into scales its pretty easy not to have that be a problem. I use a lot of it and a lot of the different sheep horns.

Here is a WIP I did a while back, a tutorial on how I process elk sheds:


I recently, just a couple of weeks ago, cut up another big batch:

GjxYkmv.jpg


cavmUYF.jpg


rtOmnSD.jpg


rKd92Eg.jpg


Krn9oxB.jpg


Z5WGOKI.jpg


3ANy8CF.jpg


nqzCkGY.jpg


On the sheephorn I use liners on them. I've found often that by the time ya get done polishing on the sheephorn it has a tendency to go translucent on ya. Particularly in my case as I make relatively thin and small knives so correspondingly thin scales. I use to dye the backs of the sheephorn but the liners work better and adds stability to the sheephorn. Added bonus, the liners can affect the color of the sheephorn and this is very popular. Green particularly seems to affect the color the most. Black deepens the natural color.

Ramshorn with black:

ciDTaBb.jpg


euzHjmI.jpg


zIflKXv.jpg


vfvVUpk.jpg


FdauJyo.jpg


Sheephorn with green:

vATVeQt.jpg


mnFfdFF.jpg


mLvP3Vu.jpg


rPiQ3Ab.jpg


On camel bone and some other white bones its advisable to flood the handle with superglue prior to your last hand sanding. This will help to seal the pores. Otherwise your white bone can come out kinda dirty. I recently made a set of six knives for a guy, one for each of his grandkids. They were handled with the bone of an antelope he'd shot. These bones were pretty hollow and needed filling before using as a handle but they came out great:

ilGAZG7.jpg


cK4yT5d.jpg


uHNAB8I.jpg


I use to use a lot of buffalo horn, in fact so much I was importing it myself. Don't use it anymore, too bendy, but if I were definitely a mechanical fastener of some kind, corby, Loveless bolts etc. Anyhoo, I use a lot of these natural materials so if ya ever have any questions don't heistate.
 
Buffalo horn of the materials you mentioned has the most tendency to want to return to its original curved shape. Sheephorn less so, Ramshorn even less. While elk can be pithy as someone mentioned above when made into scales its pretty easy not to have that be a problem. I use a lot of it and a lot of the different sheep horns.

Here is a WIP I did a while back, a tutorial on how I process elk sheds:


I recently, just a couple of weeks ago, cut up another big batch:

GjxYkmv.jpg


cavmUYF.jpg


rtOmnSD.jpg


rKd92Eg.jpg


Krn9oxB.jpg


Z5WGOKI.jpg


3ANy8CF.jpg


nqzCkGY.jpg


On the sheephorn I use liners on them. I've found often that by the time ya get done polishing on the sheephorn it has a tendency to go translucent on ya. Particularly in my case as I make relatively thin and small knives so correspondingly thin scales. I use to dye the backs of the sheephorn but the liners work better and adds stability to the sheephorn. Added bonus, the liners can affect the color of the sheephorn and this is very popular. Green particularly seems to affect the color the most. Black deepens the natural color.

Ramshorn with black:

ciDTaBb.jpg


euzHjmI.jpg


zIflKXv.jpg


vfvVUpk.jpg


FdauJyo.jpg


Sheephorn with green:

vATVeQt.jpg


mnFfdFF.jpg


mLvP3Vu.jpg


rPiQ3Ab.jpg


On camel bone and some other white bones its advisable to flood the handle with superglue prior to your last hand sanding. This will help to seal the pores. Otherwise your white bone can come out kinda dirty. I recently made a set of six knives for a guy, one for each of his grandkids. They were handled with the bone of an antelope he'd shot. These bones were pretty hollow and needed filling before using as a handle but they came out great:

ilGAZG7.jpg


cK4yT5d.jpg


uHNAB8I.jpg


I use to use a lot of buffalo horn, in fact so much I was importing it myself. Don't use it anymore, too bendy, but if I were definitely a mechanical fastener of some kind, corby, Loveless bolts etc. Anyhoo, I use a lot of these natural materials so if ya ever have any questions don't heistate.
Fantastic! Thank you for the info/tips and amazing photographs. I would have never though that some of the horns going translucent with finish so the liner tip is gold. Same with the camel bone / super glue trick. Thanks again for the advice. I always enjoy your photographs and great work. Not to mention that leather work is also incredible.
 
I recently picked up some buffalo horn on a whim. I usually do epoxy with peened brass pins to hold my scales on. Should I consider something sturdier or will this be enough?
 
My advice to OP and any others new to it: don't use buffalo horn. It shrinks throughout its lifetime. It's notorious for it.
Every knife in my collection that has buff horn you feel every little detail of pull-away and shrinkage around any spacers or tang. If it isn't stabilized, the closest it would ever get to a knife I made is a lanyard fob. If you insist on using it, I'd hold it for many years before use.
Others are going to disagree. That's fine. I simply suggest you ask yourself whether you want a knife coming back due to handle pull-away?
My 2cents. YMMV, etc...
 
Last edited:
Back
Top