Last night I heat treated one of my blades and tempered. This morning I was cleaning up the blade and noticed what loos to be small cracks all over it. I hit it with the buffing wheel to see if they would buff out but all it did was show the whole blade covered in them on both sides. The steel is 1095, heat treated to non magnetic and let soak for 10 mins and quenched in wafter. Tempered at 400 for an hour.
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Looks like cracks
- Thread starter Newk1402
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A.McPherson
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Bummer!
Use an oil for sure, 1095 doesn't need water in small sections like knife blades.
Use an oil for sure, 1095 doesn't need water in small sections like knife blades.
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welcome to the forum 
the proper temp is not non-magnetic. its about 100 degrees above non magnetic. bring your blade to non magnetic, memorize the shade of red, then bring the blade just one shade brighter red and quench. 1095 does not require a soak. only thick pieces of 1095 should be quenched in water. temper @425 for one hour, cool the blade in lukewarm water. do 2 of those temper cycles.
the proper temp is not non-magnetic. its about 100 degrees above non magnetic. bring your blade to non magnetic, memorize the shade of red, then bring the blade just one shade brighter red and quench. 1095 does not require a soak. only thick pieces of 1095 should be quenched in water. temper @425 for one hour, cool the blade in lukewarm water. do 2 of those temper cycles.
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I have had good luck with a heavy brine solution when quenching 1095, but oil is just better.
Britt_Askew
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Thats the opposite of everything I have read on this forum for the last 10 years
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Yes, 1095 needs soak
1075,1080,1084 vs 095
This is still in the Stickies by Kevin Cashen- although all the sticky links are broken
1080 is eutectoid and needs no soak
1095 is hypereutectoid and needs soak at target temp
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/working-the-three-steel-types.673173/
Eutecttoid is the sweet spot
Hypo O is low carbon
Hyper E is high carbon
Lots of science and medical words use these prefixes, so it's handy to learn it.
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith
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As said, 1095 is a bad choice for starting to do HT in a forge. It requires a soak of at least 5 minutes to get everything in solution. When HTing in a forge, even a minute is hard to get without overheating the blade. Better a too short soak than overheating, so just get it to one shade redder than non-magnetic and hold a short time at that color, then quench in oil.,. Canola oil will work if you don't have a good commercial oil like Parks #50. Water/brine will crack blades easily, especially if they are overheated,. 1075/1080/1084 are the easiest steels to HT in a forge.
As said, 1095 is a bad choice for starting to do HT in a forge. It requires a soak of at least 5 minutes to get everything in solution. When HTing in a forge, even a minute is hard to get without overheating the blade. Better a too short soak than overheating, so just get it to one shade redder than non-magnetic and hold a short time at that color, then quench in oil.,. Canola oil will work if you don't have a good commercial oil like Parks #50. Water/brine will crack blades easily, especially if they are overheated,. 1075/1080/1084 are the easiest steels to HT in a forge.