Loose guard suggestions

t1mpani

t1mpani

Platinum Member
Joined
Jun 6, 2002
Messages
5,517
Hey guys,
Okay, I've got a short Tibetan sword that I bought as a blem, and the guard and pommel are a little loose. Now, the pommel I know how to fix, but I'm looking for suggestions on the guard. Since it's exposed tang with scales, I can't take the handle apart without a major hassle (including drilling out handle pins and such) so that's pretty much out. There's too much space for it to fit snugly against both the ferrule and the ricasso.

Since the handle has a downward tilt and isn't evenly spaced from the guard, I can't really fit a shim in there, so my thought was to make a plate out of thin stainless (I'd polish it up before final installation) or brass, carefully cut it in half, and then grind out notches in both pieces for the tang to go around, sliding the two halves in from the sides. I figured I'd just JB Weld it to the guard and put a dab under the ends for the ricasso to meet up with. I was wondering if you guys thought this best, or perhaps soldering? I'm playing with ideas at this point, and haven't bought any brass or steel stock, so I'm completely open to suggestions. I want it to be strong but I also want it to look finished and not thrown together.

BTW, I really love the size/shape/weight/balance of this sword. Yet another hat tip to Bura and Uncle Bill. :)

Warren
 
Sorry, but I can't offer any advice. The one time I tried to fix a loose bolster on a khukuri, I increased its ugliness quotient a thousandfold. It still works, but is now dented, scratched, dinged and deformed. I should have just left it alone. JB Weld should work for attaching a new guard, or perhaps Acraglas bedding compound, which is supposed to hold up to shock quite well, so it shouldn't come loose over time.

--Josh
 
I've always thought duct tape had a certain panache to it...
 
You need to plunge this sword hilt deep into the flesh of your enemies, then let it dry overnight. That should do it.



Seriously, I haven't tried even a bolster because josh's experience was really intended for me.


munk
 
Hey, I forgot about Acraglas--I've heard quite a few people comment on it. Any ideas where it can be picked up? :)

The only trouble with dried enemy guts is the smell during the summer months.
 
Disregard supplier question--once my brain kicked in to "bedding compound" I called one of my gunsmiths and he has some I can use. Woohoo!

I'm guessing this is going to be my best option. Advantage of doing this plate will be it'll cover the open space in the guard, so that you don't have garbage getting down into the handle. Assuming I actually take my time and do it right, it should look better too...
 
:-( You could still use some duct tape for stylin'!
 
The first thing I would do is carefully pour some superglue in the joint. It may take a couple of applications but it may work without a lot of hassle. The superglue melts laha and forms a bond stronger than the original.
 
Only from Yvsa, could an observation like that come! Experience does matter. Thank you.
And to Nasty: Yes, duct tape has a certain panache, your not getting into sheath making, are you?
:eek:
 
Appreciate it, Yvsa. I've dropped some bondini down into the joint itself, which can't do the guard any good (no laha touching it) but will hopefully bolster (no pun intended) the strength of the ferrule.

As to the guard itself, I made an irritating discovery, in that it is actually too close on one side to fit a spacer in there of even thickness. So, I'm going to use JBWeld to secure the guard to the tang, and also fill in the gaps and close everything off. I'm using this instead of the Acraglas because it's opaque and will visually close up the area. Since I already stopped by and picked up so Acraglas, though, I'm going to use it where my spacer IS going. I'm going to form a half-moon spacer to match the shape of the ferrule out of brass, tapering the thickness out at the ends to make it fit the wedge-shaped gap, use Acraglas to coat it before really wedging it in there, and then solder the whole joint to make it look finished.

Maybe not a perfect plan, but a plan nonetheless...
 
Hmmm...well, I'll see how tight I can make the wedge. If it's close enough I'll just hammer it in there and solder, skipping the coating.

JB Weld is on the guard joint now, so I can't do anything until tomorrow.
 
Where did you get clear JB Weld?:confused: All I've ever seen is the grey stuff.
 
Yvsa,
This is grey stuff (actually almost black with the addition of a little soot). It's the Acraglas that is clear. I went with JBWeld up top because the slot in the guard is too big for the tang going through it, and I wanted to close up the holes. I didn't just slather it on there, it's all cleaned up to make flat surfaces and right angles. :) Really wish there'd been room to put a brass or bronze plate between the guard and blade--it would have looked much better. Still, this isn't bad.
 
For future reference
I wonder how well one could mix brass powder & acraglass
or clear epoxy
to emulate metallic brass.

jbweld is steel powder in epoxy
 
t1mpani said:
Yvsa,
This is grey stuff (actually almost black with the addition of a little soot).

Still, this isn't bad.
Click to expand...
Okay, I just thought maybe you knew something I needed to know as well.;)

No, JB Weld can actually be made too look pretty damned good. I've used it on a few guards that although they fit excellently the very small gap would have permitted moisture to penetrate and I didn't want that.
You know if you hadn't been in such a hurry we could've figured out that some brass filings could've been mixed with the acraglass for a damned near invisible fix. But if it isn't satisfactory that could still probably be done. You can get the powdered brass at most art stores but I don't know the proper name for it.
But I know what it is like about wanting to get something fixed right now. I'm not as bad as I used to be but I'm still bad enough.;)

LOL, Dean beat me to it as we were posting at the same time. I just shouldn't be so long winded ainnit?:rolleyes: ;) :D
 
Hey, I'm still up for improvement--the gaps are filled, but another layer could go on top. :)
 
Up to the individual involved, of course, but I've found when a thing is fixed, it's time to stop improving it.


justathought


Kis
 
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