Loosing tooling when bending. Finished pics added!

Cody Hofsommer

Cody Hofsommer

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Dec 2, 2011
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So I have tried to do a basket pattern or something like that on sheath, or in the last case, a horizontal sheath belt loop, but when I bend the piece, I loose the pattern. I am guessing that I'm not casing the leather properly. Any of yiu have a better guess? This is on W&C 8 oz skirting.
 
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Funny, just asked a similar question in the pistol holster thread. I am also very interested in any tips and casing instructions. There are so many different ways to case it seems.
 
Tooling and/or carving the reverse side of any sheath is largely unnecessary. In fact I never do it. While your pattern is still flat, lay out your pattern so that you just go 1/8 inch past the center line of the sheath (pouch style sheaths). Then when the time comes for the bend nearly all of the pattern is on the front side and not subject to distortion in the bend. When completed, the visual effect is that the entire front is covered with the tooling and/or carving. It's still a good idea to dampen the center line prior to bending to facilitate the stretching of the leather at the bend to void cracking. See example below for illustration.

Paul
 
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Thank you for responding Paul, the thing on this horizontal sheath is depending on how they wear it, either side may show. I have seen stuff others have tooled and bent, so I know it can be done. I'll try another piece and try to properly case it this time instead of just soaking and tooling wet like it did on this one.
 
On wrap around holsters I will tool around the piece, or over the fold on certain fold over designs just depending on the situation. Paul's expertise in tooling far exceeds mine. In the OP's situation it depends on many variables. Are you casing and getting a good impression to start with? What is your tooling surface? When I case I will run the piece through a sink of warm water with a drop of soap, and ziplock or plastic bag it for at least a day. I've tooled a belt that stayed in a bag for almost 6 months and did not have any mold so don't worry about ill effects. After you finish stamping your pattern put a bend in your piece gently to give the leather a little memory of where it needs to sit. This will also allow you to touch up any stamps if need be. When I go to wet mold the pieces I case it just like I case for tooling. It is a little more work to get the items seated but it does not allow your stamping to press out as easily. Do not use a press for forming. Do it by hand or vacuum if necessary all of my stamped gear is done by hand.

Most of my early work had the washed out stamping. Proper stamping surface, proper maul, and patience were the top 3 things that improved it.

To Paul : I love how you did the loop on that sheath. Thanks for sharing your work with us!
 
Cody, for an ambidextrous sheath where you feel the back must be tooled, follow the same instructions as above, but leave about a one inch to one and a quarter inch void down the center line, that is not tooled. In other words, lay the pattern area out on both sides leaving a blank border strip down the center line. The visual effect will be the same on both sides as it is in the photo.

@Eaglestroker, that loop is through a slot top and bottom and then cemented between the lining and the exterior. The lock stitches go in before the lining so there is nothing inside the sheath but smooth leather.
Paul
 
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Thanks guys, after I posted this I went into the basement and looked at the piece that I had done yesterday. It looked like about right to stamp, so I restamped it. It took much better. I think the main problem I was having was it was wet, not cased. I didn't like how the first one turned out, so I cut a new one and am casing it as I type. I'll try it again tomorrow. Guess there is a difference between wet and cased…lol. I guess I have a lot to learn! Thanks for the help. I'll try to post pics when I'm done.
 
I had the same problems at first till I realized I wasn't stamping deep enough. I now use a thick slab of granite as my base and it makes a huge difference. When I bend them I don't lose much of the pattern due to stretching. I guess a good question to Paul is how wet is wet enough ? Is it really necessary to dunk the leather or is misting with a spray bottle enough to get a crisp stamp.
J B
 
There is no question that correct casing will produce better results and there are many varied opinions about just what "correct casing" is. The leather should be wet all the way through and then allowed to dry until it has retuned almost to the original color. This will still leave a considerable amount of interior moisture. You can tell this when you stamp as the moisture will compress and leave a darker outline around the stamp figure and in the recesses the stamp makes. (It will tend to be mono colored also if it is too wet, but the leather color as a whole will be darker than original color) If you fail to see this color differential because of excessive drying, then misting with a spray bottle may be in order and then wait just a few minutes before resuming the stamping.

Paul
 
You guys might consider trying Pro-Carv. I don't necessarily have enough experience with it to fully endorse it, but my spiddy senses tingle when I have the jug in hand. :)

I bought a cheap spray bottle and mixed up the solution (10 parts water to 1 part PC). Having only used it a little it seems like a great product. Horsewright suggested it to me and I've been pleasantly satisfied. No more testing this and that trying to figure it out.

I used to stamp on the bend too. I believe it was Paul that showed me a better way. Now I frame in the stamping on pouch sheaths and leave the bend alone. To my eye it looks better to boot. Between a solid granite surface, good quality maul, good stamps and PC my work is much much better.

It only took me forever to find and purchase a jug of Pro-Carv, and I won't be without it from here on out.
 
So I stamped the piece this am, and it worked a lot better. I dug my make shift counter top Marble slab, and stamped a little harder then I normally would have, and the leather was closer to what it should be for cased. I have to go to work now, bu hopefully I will get to see it up tonight. I'll post a pic when done. P.s. How many post do you see some one say that, and they never do. Lol
 
Here is a quick pic of how it came together. The finish is more even then the pic show.
BEC6AB87-9571-4BC8-820F-67A264EABDD3-502-0000011F287F2FD8_zpsvo6gsyma.jpg
FD59465A-B903-4475-ABD4-83241650DE43-502-0000011F4476F9B3_zpsuws07inp.jpg
 
That looks outstanding. The contrasting colors are great, stitching looks clean. Always looks odd to me having a knife with a guard going into a pouch sheath, but your example works.

Love the knife btw!
 
looks awesome! really cool... something i couldn't figure out yet, how do you do the two colour dying?
 
vilePossum said:
looks awesome! really cool... something i couldn't figure out yet, how do you do the two colour dying?
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Thanks,
For the two tone color, I just use a artist paint brush. If you do it dry, it will bleed where you don't want it. So I just wet the leather, and that fixes it. It won't bleed then.
 
Very nice work Cody! I've admired your knives before. Didn't know that about the dye not bleeding when the leather is wet. Makes a guy go hmm.
 
Horsewright said:
Very nice work Cody! I've admired your knives before. Didn't know that about the dye not bleeding when the leather is wet. Makes a guy go hmm.
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Yeah, that's what's I was thinking. That could have been the clue I was looking for, as I already tried different brushes and always had the colors bleed.
 
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