losing my edge

Varga Knives

Varga Knives

Joined
Aug 12, 2006
Messages
1,302
First off, absolutely love my XM-18 (3.5, stonewashed, orange). I got it a few months ago but just started to carry it daily within the last couple of weeks. I don't know what I was waiting for, I guess I just wanted to admire the esthetics a bit before I put wear into it. So far it only served light duty, opening boxes, etc. Last week, though, I bought a GPS unit which came in one of those bitch to open heat sealed plastic cases. A couple of slices and some pulling and I got the thing opened but noticed my knife went from shaving sharp to just ordinary sharp. Still good enough for now as it slices paper with ease but eventually I would like to touch it up. This is my first really nice knife and my MO so far has always been to run my EDC's through one of those portable v-sharpeners with course on one side and fine on the other, however, this will not do for this knife. So, until I save up for a Wicked Edge what should I use to bring a pretty sharp blade back to life. Is stropping with paste the most viable option or should I pick up a Sharpmaker? Maybe something else?
 
I think stropping would be sufficient for your knife. It will bring it back to shaving sharp.
But be prepared to strop or sharpen quite often if you have the Duratech 20cv blade.
I have both the Duratech 20cv and the CTS-XHP blade, and the latter keeps an edge much better IMO.
 
Good point, I should have mentioned it's CTS-XHP. So, one vote for stropping and one for the Sharpmaker. I am leaning towards the Sharpmaker because it may be more versatile due to the edges on my other knives being beyond stopping and I can get it at a fairly low price. Hmm, on the other hand I could make a board with some leather and buy some paste all for pretty cheap and probable get great results.
 
I have the Wicked Edge, it is a great system, but I usually just use it to set up the edge. After I have put the correct angle (for my liking), I can strop it for a long time before I have to take it back to the WE.
By the way; CTS-XHP seems very good to me :thumbup:
 
Shipwrecked said:
My sharpmaker is perfect for
Touch ups on my xm-18. Brings it right back to shaving sharp.
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do you set it at 30 degrees or 40 degrees on your sharpmaker? i have one and have used it on my crks with s30v but i also have my hinderer with cts-xhp and have been a little apprehensive about using the sharpmaker but now i wont. i just really wanna make sure that im using the right angle. i read somewhere here i think that rick does them at 30? any help would be appreciated and thanks to the op for beating me to post this question:D

once im sure of the angle i will give it a shot and let you know.:thumbup:
 
I use DMT dia-folds. Its about 38* inclusive now and screaming sharp!
 
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As far as stropping, I don't know that I really trust myself to get the angle right. Maybe someone could post a measurement of how high the spine is kept off the surface to maintain the 38 degrees (inclusive). Is there a particular paste that's favored? Is 5 micron a good one for general upkeep? How about the Sharpmaker, is the ultrafine stone good for general upkeep?
 
All 3 of my xm's had an angle greater than 40 degrees inclusive . You either have to reprofile first or just adjust the angle a bit by hand with the sharpmaker in my experience !! + 1 on the strop tho , I made one with a paint stirrer and a strip of old boot leather and it greatly increases the amount of time between sharpenings !!
 
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concreteadaptation said:
do you set it at 30 degrees or 40 degrees on your sharpmaker? i have one and have used it on my crks with s30v but i also have my hinderer with cts-xhp and have been a little apprehensive about using the sharpmaker but now i wont. i just really wanna make sure that im using the right angle. i read somewhere here i think that rick does them at 30? any help would be appreciated and thanks to the op for beating me to post this question:D

once im sure of the angle i will give it a shot and let you know.:thumbup:
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I just used the steps with the white stones at 40 degrees. It brings it right back to shaving sharp for me. My angel actually fits perfectly to it. Which I was happy about. I hope this helps.
 
I have the WEPS now but for years got great results from my Sharpmaker.
I used to sharpen at 40* and finish off at 30* on the stone edges (not flats)
Always had scarey sharp edges IF I didn't let them get to far gone.
I got the WEPS for reprofiling, edges that were too far gone and just the natural progression of the hobby.
 
just an fyi i used the sharpmaker at 40 degrees with just the white stones lasr night and it brought the cts-xhp back to razor sharp. thanks alot to op ad all guys who posted help.

luke
 
rubiconss said:
I have the WEPS now but for years got great results from my Sharpmaker.
I used to sharpen at 40* and finish off at 30* on the stone edges (not flats)
Always had scarey sharp edges IF I didn't let them get to far gone.
I got the WEPS for reprofiling, edges that were too far gone and just the natural progression of the hobby.
Click to expand...

Not trying to start anything but technically wouldnt doing 30 degree angle AFTER the 40 degree angle be useless as your setting a steeper angle first? Therefore when using the 30 degree angle your not touching the cutting edge but only the shoulder? Please correct me if I am wrong.
 
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mdc5162 said:
Not trying to start anything but technically wouldnt doing 30 degree angle AFTER the 40 degree angle be useless as your setting a steeper angle first? Therefore when using the 30 degree angle your not touching the cutting edge but only the shoulder? Please correct me if I am wrong.
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You're right a far better solution is a 30* first with a 40* micro bevel applied last - but different strokes ya know?

For myself, even with a premium steel such as CTS-XHP llike Rick uses, I still keep mine as close to 40* as possible. :)
 
rubiconss said:
I have the WEPS now but for years got great results from my Sharpmaker.
I used to sharpen at 40* and finish off at 30* on the stone edges (not flats)
Always had scarey sharp edges IF I didn't let them get to far gone.
I got the WEPS for reprofiling, edges that were too far gone and just the natural progression of the hobby.
Click to expand...

Kinda confused by that comment. Did you mean to say you sharpened at 30 and finished at 40? Only reason I ask is, if you sharpen at 40 degrees, and then switch to 30 degrees, you'll no longer hit the edge, but instead just hit the shoulders of your secondary bevel.

Edited to add: I guess I should have read a bit more first. Would have seen that this has already been asked. :o
 
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