Lost in the Serra

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Jan 7, 2003
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I just ran my "Lost in the Serra" basic wilderness survival trip with four guys this week. This is the first time I've done the trip since I've been back in Brazil. It went well.

I normally write a debrief of the trip when I get back for my own purposes. This time it turned out to be eight pages in Word. If anyone's intrested I can post it but it will be long, long. I'd need to do an edit to make it presentable. Mac
 
Please post. This was ran in the Serras or in Brazil? If it was run in the Serras are you going to run it again? Thanks.
 
The "Serra" here is a generic term for any system of ridges. The area I do this trip in is between Rio Acima and Ouro Preto Brazil. If you get yourself down here I'd be happy to take you out.

Wilderness survival is a long time hobby/passion that has become part of my ministry here. I use it with church teens, troubled youth (same thing) and as a leadership/team building exercise. This last trip was the former.

I'll go ahead and edit it for final copy and post it. Be warned it will be looong. Like I said I write this stuff down for me but I tried out some ideas that we've kicked around here on the board in the last few months and I figured you guys would recognize them and like to see how they worked out.

Also, if you read it and spot any areas where I could improve my delivery please feel free to comment. The scope is limited to the "When Good Day Hikes Go Bad" scenario. This is something that happens often here and it scares people from going out and getting to know some awesome wilderness. Mac
 
LOST IN THE SERRA SURVIVAL SCHOOL TRIP REPORT

This group had very little previous wilderness experience. Moises (28) had served a year in the Brazilian Armored Infantry and had some knowledge of basic wilderness living and orienteering. The other three, Antonio (40), Adison (26), and Ivo (23) had never set foot in the bush nor spent a night in a tent. Moises, Antonio and Adison are local church pastors; Ivo is a pastoral intern at Adison’s church. They get very little time off and don’t get much in the way of vacations so I wanted them to have a good time and not have to suffer too much. I told them this trip would be “Survival Lite”.

All of them are fairly new to Belo Horizonte and they are pastors of churches I’m involved with so my main goal was to get to know them and give them a chance to get to know each other. That goal was well covered.

We arrived at noon, a few hours behind schedule due to late arrivals. Our first task was to edit and distribute the packs. Antonio had brought a fresh change of clothes for each day in the bush. He was told to take only what was on the list. Ivo had brought a full set of personal hygiene products. These were also left behind. He balked at leaving his toothpaste but complied. Moises and Adison had both followed instructions.

Since we parked near the only source of flowing water in the area we filled canteens and treated them with 2% Tincture of Iodine. Streamside, we discussed alternate methods of treating water in the bush, mainly chlorine bleach and boiling.

The group was divided into two teams. Antonio and Moises were paired together as were Adison and Ivo. Each pair had to fill, transport, and take care of a five-liter emergency water bag. This water was left untreated. I wanted to test these bags in the hands of complete novices so I gave them no instruction as to how to handle them. I let them decide how best to carry and store the water bags. I emphasized that if their bag ripped or spilled they would have to repair it with duct tape and refill it in the valley. (I carried a set of Platypus bags as a back up in case of total system failure)

We then hiked to the base of the ridge where there is a large rock. The area there is very rocky and dry, the most inhospitable place in the Serra. I had them drop off their packs and water bags before climbing up into the rocks. I then held the first lecture. I asked them to take a good look around and consider spending the night out there with only what they had in their pockets. I gave them 20 minutes to go find a place within 200 meters of the rock to sit and contemplate what they really needed to survive.

After the 20 minutes were up we discussed what they thought then went over the law of 3’s. This exercise worked very well. They had been thinking that the contents of their packs would leave them in precarious living conditions. Suddenly sleeping in a tent with a sleeping bag didn’t seem so bad. They would eat survival rations, cook over a fire, drink water, etc. In short, they had what was necessary to survive and that was good enough for two nights and three days.

The first-days objective was to cover the most essential elements of survival in the Serra, water, shelter, and fire. Day two was reserved for compass navigation, emergency signaling, and other wilderness skills.

On the hike up to the camping area we discussed natural shelter and how to make a small protected area livable using a large volume of grass as bedding and protection. I led them to a small flat area between two large rocks that created a natural shelter from the elements. We then discussed how to insulate the ground and build a brush shelter over the space. By realistically evaluating the amount of work involved in constructing the shelter, the time involved, and the net result they knew it was possible to spend the night out there with nothing, but they correctly came to the conclusion that they could easily pack in some items to help the process along. The purpose of the trip is not to teach them raw, primitive survival skills but to emphasize the importance of not going into the bush without their basic kit.

The lecture went something like this – “Imagine this space filled with about 50 cm of dry grass and a brush windbreak over top. How would you light a fire to keep warm and keep the mosquitoes off? (of course they drew a blank) Now imagine you packed the basic kit list in a small daypack before your hike and can replace that brush shelter with a 2x2 meter plastic tarp. Your basic kit has a Bic lighter so after collecting some firewood you have a fire going in front of the shelter. There is an aluminum cup with your canteen and a small survival ration of food so now you can cook some rice and bullion. You have a five-liter bag full of water or at least if you locate water you can fill it. You have a small bottle of iodine in the kit to treat all the water you will need and treat any wounds you might have.” Suddenly that basic kit list started making sense.

I had planned to have them construct this “basic kit” camp but due to our late arrival we didn’t have time to do that and set up our actual camp so I reduced it to a lecture/mental exercise. This really bummed me out as I had planned to have them start with the grass bed and then add each piece of kit to the scene. It worked as an “on scene” lecture but lacked dramatic impact.

After this exercise we hiked up to the top of the hill to the only space flat enough to hold two 2-man tents. The area was choked with tall weeds. This ridge had burned off last year and there was very little grass left. The area was now dominated with tall flowering weeds. It took them about 20 minutes to yank all the weeds out of the camping area and clear it for the tents. This created a large pile of weeds that made a good base for insulation under the tents.

I then had them fan out and start ripping up grass to insulate and soften the ground under the tents. I also ripped up a large volume of grass for my own bed. I was sleeping outside with a tropical bag, poncho liner, and bivy-sack.

After they had their tents set up over grass mattresses it was time to collect firewood. There was some well-seasoned Candeia in the campsite from the last time I used the location a year ago. They fanned out in pairs and collected a surprising amount of wood in short order. The fire last year had killed a few more Candeia trees, thus the ridge was well stocked with seasoned wood.
 
They cut the wood into sections with the 16-inch Tramontina machete. I showed them how to baton it into splits with the BK-7. We then used the SWAK’s and my NRGS to make fuzz sticks. These last two steps were totally unnecessary due to the dry conditions and I told them so. I wanted to show them how to get to dry wood in case they had to make a fire in rainy season.

We then cleared a large flat rock for our fireplace and I taught them how to construct a fire. The Serra is very dry at this time of year so fire safety was stressed. I exaggerated the proportions of tinder making sure they knew that to err on the large side was better then to start with too little tinder and kindling.

Once the fire was constructed I took a 50 cm section of dry bamboo and explained that we were cheating to use bamboo, as it doesn’t grow in the Serra. It does grow in the valley forests so bamboo wasn’t too far-fetched for the area. My objective was for them to get totally frustrated trying to make fire by friction. I wanted them to have a real appreciation of the other fire making means and stress the importance to packing in a method to make fire. If they actually succeeded in making a friction fire that would be great but I know better.

I split the bamboo and carved a fire saw for them. I then worked it until I got smoke and showed them where the coal would form and how to transfer it to the tinder ball. They had collected some plant wool along the way up for the first stage tinder.

They each took turns with the bamboo and created a great volume of smoke, sweat, and sore muscles. As I had expected, were unable to make a coal on their first try and spent a great deal of effort learning the facts of life with fire-by-friction. I then explained the BSA Hotsparks dangling on the ends of the two Mora SWAK knives. They were greatly impressed with the ferrocium and the SWAK. (They all want me to get one for them as soon as possible. All that for R$30, they couldn’t believe it!)

I demonstrated the correct technique and lit several examples of natural tinder for them. I then raided the first aid kit for cotton gauze and a cotton ball. I first lit them dry. Then I treated them with Vaseline-based triple anti-biotic ointment. This was a vast improvement.

We took a break and got everything ready for dinner, which consisted of Boil-in-bag rice and a chicken bullion cube. Moises lit the fire with his Hotspark and natural tinder. I then cooked my own rice and let my example serve to show them how it was to be done.
For cooking they used small aluminum pots with sealed lids. Brazilian construction workers use these pots to heat up meals, they only cost about R$ 2.50 ($1 USD). These pots were part of the basic kit.

After dinner we spotted Ivo listing to a tiny radio he had smuggled in. Once he was discovered he gave us a running commentary on the news. He ended up by saying it was all the same exact stuff they were talking about yesterday. I said, “So if you left the radio at home you wouldn’t have missed a thing?” That got a rise out of the group.

Just before sundown, Moises, Adison, and Antonio decided we needed to refill one of the water bags. This was a lame excuse to head down to the stream and wash. Brazilians are fanatical about personal hygiene and can’t fathom going to sleep without a half hour shower first, lost in the Serra or not! I knew the water would be extra but let them go, they had earned it. Ivo elected to stay in camp, he couldn’t see washing without his full range of personal grooming products so he didn’t bother.

I have learned from past experience with Brazilians in the bush that if I let them take any personal hygiene products along then they will try to maintain themselves at the same level they do at home. This wastes large volumes of water that they packed in. It also consumes a good deal of time, of which there is very little. Once they are clean they are loath to get dirty again. I just force them to GET OVER IT! Aside from not eating a huge volume of rice and beans for dinner this is the greatest adjustment Brazilians have to make to life in the bush.

The bath boys made it back to camp after dark. Ivo was freezing by this point as the temperature had plummeted down into the 60’s. He broke out his WINTER COAT and was still cold so he did a good job of keeping the fire going.

After dark the lights of a small village were visible about 15 kilometers away. I had them each sight on it with their compasses. I told them it was the first lesson in compass navigation. If we were really lost in the wilderness and could see the lights of a village like that then we would have to walk out and try to reach it the next day. As the stars came out I had them locate due south using the Southern Cross.

They sat around the fire trading stories until about 9:00 and we went to bed. It was only then that I noticed the heavy, heavy dew forming on everything. I had left my fleece sweatshirt outside of my pack and had to dry it off before getting into my bivy sack.

The night was typical of May in Brazil. The temp dropped to the mid fifties, slight breeze, with a partly cloudy sky. I had rigged a poncho over my bivy/grass bed. This got soaked with dew inside and out but I was dry in the bivy sack.

I got them up at 7:00 AM. Miraculously all of them actually slept and none of them were hypothermic. Brazilians react to 50 degrees about like American tolerate 30. On the flip side in the high 90’s they barely break a sweat.

Before we lit the fire I showed them how to collect charcoal to make a water filter. I told them that charcoal has no taste and to emphasize the point I took a nibble of it, crunched it up and spit black. I then offered a piece to Moises who repeated the process, then Adison, and then Antonio. When I gave it to Ivo he at first hesitated then put it on his tongue. We all stood there waiting for him to crunch it up but this was obviously well beyond his civilized capabilities. I asked him, “Tem gosto?”(Does it have any taste?) He shook his head no. I told him he could then remove the lump of charcoal.
 
We lit the breakfast fire using pencil shavings. Each team had a small notebook and #2 pencil for recording compass readings. Moises had a small pencil sharpener in his kit so I showed them how to use it to make tinder. This tinder was placed in a small waxed paper wrapper from a small block of sugar that was included in their survival rations. Nothing gets wasted.

Breakfast was instant oatmeal, and instant coffee. They also boiled 30 quail eggs for lunch. (Quail eggs are the size of a large grape) I had them get out their compasses and locate the direction of the village we had sighted the night before. In between the village and us were several ridges and a lot of forest. I used the village as an example of a long-range objective and explained basic compass theory of sighting visible objectives along the line of travel. I had no intention of hacking out through 15 kilometers of dense forest.

They still had no real idea of how to navigate from point A to point B so I had them set up a daypack with essential kit and some meager rations for lunch. Each of them carried their compass, whistle, canteen and either machete or SWAK. The daypack held the tarp, cord, a water bag, iodine, first aid kit, bic lighter, signal mirror, candle, and a mini-maglight. I carried my survival pack.

We packed the tents and sleeping bags in the packs. They had to cache the excess gear. This was their first compass task. Using our fire as a fixed starting point they had to select a compass bearing and follow it to a good hiding place for their pack. They then had to record the bearing and distance in the notebook so they could find their packs again when we returned.

Antonio and Ivo picked up the concept fairly quickly. Moises came back in about 15 minutes with a three-leg course recording compass bearing and paces to his pack. His military basic training in orienteering was coming back to him. I had to walk Adison through the exercise several times using short objectives as examples. I finally figured out he was thinking he needed to reverse his bearing in order to find the pack again. I finally just told him, “Look, when we get back this afternoon you’re going to set your compass to the same setting and walk a straight line through the brush to your pack.” The lights came on.

With the packs hidden in four separate locations we followed a compass bearing through the bush until we intersected the ridge trail. I had them build a stone marker in the trail to show us where to start our reverse bearing on the way back. All compass bearings and distances were recorded in their notebooks.

We hiked up the ridge trail to a point where I knew of a large flat rock with a great view of the surrounding country. I had them make another trail marker where we left the ridge trail.

From the rock on top we could see a large waterfall at the head of the valley. I knew of a trail that led to the top of the falls but I wanted them to find it off trail with their compasses. In between was a long rocky slope and about two kilometers of dense forest. At the bottom of the slope they would lose sight and sound of the falls. From the top we took a sighting of the base of the falls and I selected our first objective, a gnarled tree at the edge of the forest.

Just before we got to the tree I stepped in a patch of wet sand and stopped to teach them how to dig for water. I also gave them the dehydration lecture and discussed water rationing and how a few capfuls of water spaced out over the course of a few hours won’t relieve dehydration. This was a perfect place for the lecture as the rocky slope was to our side and was acting like a huge radiator baking us in 90-degree heat. I turned around to walk the last 50 meters to the tree and when I looked back they were all putting their canteens away. I guess the lecture made them thirsty!

From there I had them leapfrog through the forest taking turns sighting objectives along our line of travel. When we crossed the trail through the forest it seemed like it would lead right to the base of the falls. They built a stone marker to mark where our bearing crossed the trail and followed the trail. I knew it didn’t lead to the base of the falls but eventually would hook around and climb to the top. As soon as this became apparent they stopped. After some discussion we had two options, go back and resume the original line of travel or take a new bearing on the roar of the falls.

I had each of them close their eyes and face the sound of the falls; looking straight ahead they fixed their eyes on an objective and took a sighting. They were all within a degree or three of the same number so we set the compass for the consensus and hacked our way a half km through very thick jungle to the “base” of the falls.

We came out to the visible part of the falls exactly where we had taken our original sighting from the ridge top. What we couldn’t see (and I didn’t know) was that the forest hid a deep ravine and that the actual base of the falls was far below. Good enough, we got to the exact point we had shot for and everyone was satisfied. We followed the falls to the top and took a lunch break of quail eggs. We also downed our canteens and refilled them. This time I let them use Potable Aqua Plus to treat the water.

From there we headed back down the trail we had intersected earlier. Ivo was catching on to life in the bush and set about collecting plant wool without being told. I found a downed tree that was covered with dried lichen. We collected enough for several fires.

At the second stone marker I told them to find the water hole I had dug earlier. They looked up the compass bearing we had been following, reversed it 180 degrees and led us back. I stayed back checking them with my compass. Moises knew exactly what he was doing and took off on the correct bearing. Antonio was right with him. Adison and Ivo were having some sort of discussion, claiming that Moises was wrong, but they got it figured out.
 
The hole had collected a little water but I wasn’t satisfied so we followed the dry water course downhill until it broke the surface in a tiny pool about 2 cm deep. I took out my 60 ml syringe and tube and showed them how to collect water without disturbing the sediment.

We found the trail again and hiked a few km, stopping once to learn how to signal with a Starflash™ mirror, regular mirror, whistles, mag-light, reflector on the back of the mirror, and building a series of three signal fires. From there the trail arrived at a series of spectacular waterfalls that terminate in a 70-meter drop to the jungle below. We hiked all the way to the bottom.

At the base of the waterfall Moises stripped down to his skivvies and took a COLD shower. I got some great video of him hiding behind a bush that will come in handy at the next youth retreat. Soon Adison and Antonio joined Moises. Ivo couldn’t see the point in taking a shower without the benefit of his full array of personal beauty products. I broke down and tossed him the tiny bar of soap from the first aid kit. Between the four of them they used the entire bar.

By then it was mid afternoon and we had to get back and get set up. By 3:00 we had the packs located and the tents were on their way to being set back up. I told them I was off duty and didn’t have to speak Portuguese for a half hour. The evening fire making and cooking duties were on them. I did show them how to use the squared-ff back of the machete blade to scrape shavings off a seasoned Candeia log for tinder. Antonio lit them with a Hotspark. This technique worked great. It was like having a planer out there.

Before dinner Antonio had to get something out of Ivo’s pack. There was this great commotion and he came away with a roll of strawberry cream filled cookies holding it up like it was the Stanley Cup. (Come on dude, if you’re going to smuggle cookies in make them Oreo’s!) Ivo was sitting there all red-faced not quite knowing what to say. Antonio handed me the cookies like they were exhibit “A”. With great ceremony I reached under my shirt, drew my sweaty, Newt Livesay NRGS neck knife, sliced off the top of the roll and passed the cookies out to Moises, Antonio, and Adison. After eating one myself I handed the rest back to Ivo. I told them the next time I run the course everyone would have to show up in their underwear. Even then they’d find a way to stuff it full of food.

The dinner conversation kept coming back to meat. No matter what subject we started on it always ended on meat. I told them if they started talking about meat again I was going to get offended. They said for not packing in meat I was lucky I didn’t get eaten. After a dinner of boiled rice and chicken bullion they sat around the fire trading stories until 9:00.

I didn’t bother with the poncho again as it had warmed up a few degrees and the dew wasn’t too bad. There was no moon and the Southern Hemisphere has amazing stars. The combination of tropical bag, poncho liner, and bivy sack kept me plenty warm. I wore my BDU pants, socks, long sleeve T-shirt, and a hooded fleece sweatshirt to sleep in. The bugs were tolerable so I didn’t zip the bivy hood shut.

I normally sleep very light in the bush and tend to wake up a lot. I have two ways of marking the time I’ve slept. I note the position of the stars and when I wake up I can see that the Southern Cross is now farther along than it was. Either that or I think about what I was just doing. If I had been cleaning the air filter on my car or some other impossible thing I must have been dreaming, therefore I had slept. Other than that it’s right side until my arm falls asleep, left side until my arm falls asleep, on my back until I start snoring and shift to my right side. Is it any wonder I prefer hammocks? What bush sleep lacks in quality it makes up for in quantity. I normally sleep from 11:30 to 5:30. In the bush I sleep from 9:00 to 6:30. I never feel like I lost a night’s sleep.

In the morning we made breakfast, hung up the sleeping bags to dry and turned the tents on their sides after hanging up the rain flys. By 10:00 they were all at the car again and taking baths in the upper falls. Once everybody was sort of washed up and changed into civilian clothes we still had some time to kill so we visited a local farmer friend of mine and bought home made cheese from his wife.

At 11:30 I took them all out to lunch at a rustic, outdoor, all-you-can-eat, Brazilian restaurant. I love this place because aside from great food they cook it over a wood fire so the entire place smells like burning Candeia wood and none of the regular customers think we STINK! Now these guys are all hyped-up to climb the mountain that was towering over us the entire time so I think I’ve made some converts.
 
Pict, you da man. :) Great story, thanks for sharing it. Sounds like you had matters well in hand and might even have some hiking and survival converts on your hands.
 
Thanks for sharing, I would love to go on an outing like that. I'd try to smuggle in girls instead of the cookies though...
 
Yeah, but smuggle both in, cause cookies give you energy while womens get ya to use it all up. :D
 
I posted this same material on the Shooterville.com "Banter" board. The link won't take you there I'm pretty sure you have to register to get on but the post includes all sorts of photos of the area. Mac
 
Pict,
That was a great yarn. You obviously know what you are doing in the bush, and also have a good understanding of human nature as well.

I always find that people who know nothing about wilderness living or survival are at first apprehensive, then interested, and eventually as keen as mustard to try out all the new things they have learned.

Congratulations on your little expedition, and for taking the time and trouble to pass on your skills, and for sharing it with us on this forum.

I am sure the Big Boss would approve of the way you minister to your "lost ones".
 
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