I would also say that you may just have dealt with bad examples of inexpensive custom makers. I make knives as a hobby, and I sell them to pay for knives that I want to own. Let me give you a couple of perspectives from a newbie hobby maker.
Knife making is hard! For a taste of how hard knife making can be, go to the store and get a piece of mild steel, and 1 sheet of wet/dry sandpaper in 80 grit, 180 grit, 320, 400 and 600 grit. I hope you have a file too. Now take that piece of metal (say it is 2" wide and you have it 8" long) and clamp it to a work surface. Now use the file to drawfile a section of the metal flat, with an even file finish. Then go up the grits with the paper (backed on a sanding block) until you have a perfect 600 grit finish. In case you don't have the time/energy to try this, trust me when I tell you that it is HARD WORK! Try cutting out a knife blank with a hack saw, drilling all kinds of holes accurately, filing, hand sanding, grinding even bevels, getting out all fo the scratches, hand sanding hardened steel, etc. Knife making is very hard, and for new folks it is very difficult to get all of these aspects done as good or more perfectly than a factory piece. So it is understandable that some newbie makers may honestly be doing the best they can when they assemble a knife with a poor finish and uneven scales and such. Hopefully the next knife they make is better. However, there are also other newbie makers who put in the time to really make somethign as perfect as possible, given one's skills. I like to think that I am one of those guys. I have sold 3 knives and I have 4 orders (now I'm a real maker since I have a backlog!!!!!). I am slow because I am finishing my masters in philosophy. On a fighter I am making right now, I have probably put in 15-20 hours work on it, and it is just a 7" spear point with swedge and rat tail tang. Why so much time? Well, when I sent it out to heat treat, the grind was rough and I intended to clean it up after. The knife is about 1.25" wide, and the swedge was to be les than 1/2" deep, while the main grind is 3/4 wide. Basically, it was to look something liek a Camillus CQB knife, but the main grind would be wider, and there would be a fairly wide central ridge running to about 3/4" of the tip. Well, this was my first swedge grind and after heat treat I couldn't clean it up well on my grinder. It was very hard for me to keep the grind lines symmetrical. Instead od just stopping, I kept going until I got the liens evened up. Now the fighter blade looks a bit different. The swedge begins further back on the blade now, and the swedge meets the main grid - no central rib of thick steel now! Also, the angle of the plunge cut of the swedge grind is about 45 degrees! That area got a bit messy on my grinder, and I knew that I would only wreck it if I kept on grinding. SO, I've been cleaning that up by hand. I have been using a paint stir stick, a block of micarta, a dowel, a strip of leather and lots of sandpaper and elbow grease to clean it up and make it look right. Fortunately the clean-up work is almost done,a dn then I get to put on the guard and handle! I won't stop until I have done everything I can to make that knife as best as I can make it. Sure, I could have let the grinds uneven - I am a newbie maker and it was as good as I could do on my machine! Also, I could leave the plunge cut messy looking - try harder next knife! But I won't. And after it is all said and done, maybe I'll have earned a rate of $4 an hour for my labor!
I hope that my little story shows a few important things. There are new makers out there who produce knives that are functional, but flawed. New makers will make flawed products! Paying any kind of money for a flawed product may sound dumb, but don't forget that hand made knvies are a hand craft, not a production set-up, and materials aren't cheap and the work is far from easy. However, there are new makers out there offering great value for the money. As always, make sure when buying a knife that you ask plenty of questions and know what you are getting in advance. The main reason I got into knife making was to learn about knives. Typically I will grind a knife and then shoot the pic of the ground knife around to forumites just to get some info, to share, etc. I am fortunate in that some forumites have liked the pic that they saw and said they'd buy it when it is finished! WOHOO! Once a person wants a knife that I have ground, I will talk about what I can and can't do as far as features, handle materials, etc. I also shoot pics of other knives I have made that have materials or features that might go good with the knife. That way, the "customer" gets to see the quality of work I am capable of. For example, I make a knfie that I call a Magic Knot Knife (look at amy avatar for a small pic of one!) Typically I do a 320 grit hand finish on them, and the Magic Knot Knife has a special cord wrapped into a channel cut into the handle. The cord comes in three types, and in many color variations. One forumite here has a Magic Knot Knife on order, and I sent him pics of the 2 MKKs that I have already sold. By lookign at the pics, he got to see my consistency with blade finishing, the various cord combinations, etc. This way, the customer knows what I am capable of and knows what he will be getting for his hard earned money.
So, long story short, inexpensive customs can be a bargain! Shop around for sure. Check out the Shop Talk section here, and the Gallery. Post in Shop Talk if you want a custom knfie for a low price. Lots of newbie makers askign questions there that will eb glad to e-mail you! And make sure you ask lots of questions about what you'd be getting, and pics of completed knives would be great too! Also, don't forget that you are buying a hand crafted product, not just a knife. If you want custom quality for Kabar prices, you are nuts! Buy a custom if you want something that is a bit special, something hand made, or somethign designed with specific performance requirements in mind that isn't found on factory knives. Ever wonder why lots of makers do hand satin finished with the finish going lenghthwise on the blade? Machine finishes are put on widthwise! A custom maker can do what the machines can't do inexpensively

A custom maker can make a knife 5.3 inches long, or 5.8, or whatever you want. A custom maker can use odd materials. GO for somethign special like that with a custom maker! Also, realize that beginners will make mistakes! Hopefully a newbie maker (ALL MAKERS!) will be upfront about what they can and can't do.
I hope this helps some!
*****IMPORTANT***** I did NOT write this to get orders from y'all out there! My backlog is long enough! With my educational comittments and equipment on hand, I can't make a ton of knives. So please don't ask me to make you a knife! I really don't take orders (the only 2 orders were for one close friend and a family) - I make the knives that I want to make and I am fortunate that some folks have liked what I have done enough to give me some money for a CrayolaMade knife

Too bad I don't have time to make a ton more! I could use the experience and the money! Hmm... I coudl make a whole lot more if I spent 5 minutes grinding handle scales and only "finished" blades with my Nicholsen fine file...
