Recommendation? Low pressure propane? What are my options?

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Jun 16, 2018
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I'm having a local propane company install a real heater for my shop, in which I do a lot more machining than forging, as opposed to my forge. While I was discussing with them, I asked if they could also run a line for my forge (it's an Ellis 8-HT forge, blown burner). Put simply, I'm rather freaked out by having these propane tanks indoors and think it's a hell of a lot safer with them properly outdoors.

I was stunned when they told me that as this is a residential building instead of a commercial building (this is a detached outbuilding), by code they can't run pressurized gas into it. Basically, restricted to <1 psi. I'm trying to do the safe thing here, but I don't think the forge can really operate to welding temperature at that pressure.

Then again, this is not a venturi forge. This is a blown forge. Pressure isn't strictly what's important here - volume of gas delivered is. That psi is just what the line is seeing with the 1/4 hose that goes from my BBQ tank to the forge. So is there something I can do to operate within these restrictive parameters? Assuming the actual inlet is an acceptable size - if it was 1/2" that might work (as with a line to match, we should see 4x the gas flow of the 1/4" line that comes with it, in theory anyway). I'll need to go measure that. Or is there something else I can do that I'm missing here?
 
So let's get this straight... Your worried about being safe, so intstead of having your propane in one spot, you want to pipe it ethrough your building?

I don't see how that's safer...

If you are worried about leaks, keep your tanks outside in a cabinet, then bring bring them inside when you are ready to use them.
 
Put simply, I'm rather freaked out by having these propane tanks indoors and think it's a hell of a lot safer with them properly outdoors.

Out of curiosity, why are you freaked out by this? Many folks (including me) over the years have run propane forges in shops/garages/sheds/etc using indoor tanks without issues. If the tank and hoses don't leak and are protected from hot steel, what's the worry?

Personally, I'd rather have a set-up with only 3 connections (tank>regulator; regulator>line; line>burner) as opposed to a pipe with multiple connections buried and in walls, each of which could fail with less chance of noticing than would be with everything exposed and in view.
 
I don't know the math, but I'm assuming you could calculate the size of a feed required to supply the correct volume of propane to your blown forge at 1psi vs say, my blown forge which operates at 5psi through a 1/8" orifice.

Then the question will be whether the feed pipe from the tank to the regulator outside will allow sufficient volume.
 
All you need is a blown forge. They run them in machine shops, at colleges, and training centers on low pressure NG.
IIRC, there is a chap on the forum who runs one off the gas from oil wells on his property.
The difference you will have to accomodate is now you are dealing with volume, not pressure. You may need a 3/4' or 1" incoming line.

You can calculate the flow rate at the available pressure and see how big a line you need.

Did you ask the gas guy what the highest pressure off the regulator is?
 
I get it... where I live you CANNOT have propane bottles indoors. Your insurance company will cancel your policy and the fire marshal will have a fit. Simple solution... ask them to install your indoor appliance lines as normal but also request an outside feed for a "BBQ". Perfectly normal request and well within the rules. Then its up to you to connect to it... and where that hose leads. It is no longer their concern.

I had this exact conversation with the fuel company. They were very willing to figure it out for me. Win, win scenario. I will be converting to a propane water heater, soon. A 400 lb'er is in my near future.
 
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Same here, I will switch to two bulk 120 gallon outside tanks for the new shop and have propane connections for hoses inside. Hoses will have quick-connect fittings and valves. Getting the 20# and 100# bottles out of the shop will save space and be much safer. Plus, it is simple to call the gas company and have them come and swap out a tank.
 
Thanks for the advice, everyone.

So they told me today max 2 PSI for residential. That's probably enough if I change out my blower's orifices if I need to. But they also don't see a problem with leaving a slightly bigger hole in the wall to run my own hose, they just won't do it themselves.

So that's what I figure I'll do. I also figure, like Stacy mentioned above me, that I'll have a ball valve at the wall for shut-off as it enters the house, and a quick-connect fitting to easily get the hose out of the way should it be needed.. As well as a second regulator, so I'll have a 10 PSI regulator on the tank itself before it comes into the house, then another one closer to the forge to get it down between 1-5 depending on what I'm doing.
 
Hey Rick. I saw your post and I appreciate it. I figured that just having it through the hole they were already making was fine, and I could take it from there at that point - no need to do any further work or put any more on them. The fuel company was pretty adamant about just leaving it to me but leaving me space to work with at the same time.
 
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