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The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
low-rider 4 P-Millie
- Thread starter Lycosa
- Start date
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I've done more low rider clips for that model than probably any five others you can name actually. Most of them are tip up carry ones but a lot have been for the factory mounting also.
I have a PM of my own just for that reason more than for carrying one. I finally got it just to have it on hand for the most requested item for clips out there.
STR
I have a PM of my own just for that reason more than for carrying one. I finally got it just to have it on hand for the most requested item for clips out there.
STR
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,955
Its a simple matter of saying you want one and paying for it. I have a para military so I won't need the knife.
I have a Tyrade low rider I have to make today or tomorrow so if you want one speak up, and if you do I can make it and let you pay via pay pal plus 4%and then ship it out Monday to you. Total with first class shipping in the USA is like $1.50 or so to cover the fee, and $1.30 to cover shipping and $30 sent to pay pal. So $32.80
I would only need the knife if its for tip up carry because then it requires me to mount it after drilling and threading some holes. For the tip down mode I can build you one using my old clip and the two wide set holes for that one.
Thanks for asking.
STR
I have a Tyrade low rider I have to make today or tomorrow so if you want one speak up, and if you do I can make it and let you pay via pay pal plus 4%and then ship it out Monday to you. Total with first class shipping in the USA is like $1.50 or so to cover the fee, and $1.30 to cover shipping and $30 sent to pay pal. So $32.80
I would only need the knife if its for tip up carry because then it requires me to mount it after drilling and threading some holes. For the tip down mode I can build you one using my old clip and the two wide set holes for that one.
Thanks for asking.
STR
Instead of starting a new thread, I thought I would just add on to this one. The price thread is a bit long, so I hope posting these questions won't bother you.
How much would it cost for the following:
Low-Rider Clip for Para-Millie (Able to use Stock Holes) -
(All drilling for stock holes) Drilling for Tip-Up, Tip-Down (Other Side), Tip-Up (Other Side) -
Other Fees? -
Would it be cheaper to just drill one hole, or does that not matter? Also, can you turn a combo edge Benchmade into a Fully Serrated edge?
I now understand why everyone wants their Para modded. Tip-Down - it sticks out way too much, and I almost cut my hand against the tang while reaching in my pocket.
Thanks,
Spencer
How much would it cost for the following:
Low-Rider Clip for Para-Millie (Able to use Stock Holes) -
(All drilling for stock holes) Drilling for Tip-Up, Tip-Down (Other Side), Tip-Up (Other Side) -
Other Fees? -
Would it be cheaper to just drill one hole, or does that not matter? Also, can you turn a combo edge Benchmade into a Fully Serrated edge?
I now understand why everyone wants their Para modded. Tip-Down - it sticks out way too much, and I almost cut my hand against the tang while reaching in my pocket.
Thanks,
Spencer
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,955
All my low rider clips are $30 plus shipping unless you are out of the USA in which case it depends on method of shipping. I always ask for those using pay pal to add 4% to cover their fee.
On mountings like you suggest I'd need the knife to do all that.
I ask everyone preparing to mail work to me to please read post number one in my low rider clip thread which is one of the sticky posts at the top of every page on my forum.
Once you have the routine down you can mail at your convenience.
Thanks
STR
On mountings like you suggest I'd need the knife to do all that.
I ask everyone preparing to mail work to me to please read post number one in my low rider clip thread which is one of the sticky posts at the top of every page on my forum.
Once you have the routine down you can mail at your convenience.
Thanks
STR
The reason why I asked about those prices is that this contradicts the $30.
"If I need the knife mailed to me its $20. On ones that need to have holes drilled and threaded that is when I need it mailed out to me. If you want one that is stuck on it by using the original holes it came with I can make one and mail it to you for $15. I can only do this for the Military or Para Military at this time." (From the Custom Low Rider pocket clips threads)
"If I need the knife mailed to me its $20. On ones that need to have holes drilled and threaded that is when I need it mailed out to me. If you want one that is stuck on it by using the original holes it came with I can make one and mail it to you for $15. I can only do this for the Military or Para Military at this time." (From the Custom Low Rider pocket clips threads)
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You've lost me. I don't have a 'price thread' to my knowledge and if you went past the first post you apparently missed where I said at the end and I think again in a couple other places in that very old thread that you cannot hold me to prices from old posts. Prices changed shortly after I started making the clips for folks and I got more into it and learned what I needed to know to make them work. My prices have not changed in some time for my low rider pocket clips since I started them shortly after that first price adjustment. For the time involved to make one of these from start to finish I would be paying the customer to do the work for them for $15. I'll pass on doing them for that. I simply can't do them for that and make it worth my while and I learned that right quick after starting them. I'd suggest if you want a cheap generic low rider pocket clip to buy one from knifekits.com.
You might also note that I closed that thread quite some time ago. In fact I usually only refer folks to post number one and thats it.
This is the last paragraph in post number one in that thread.
Most of the posts that follow up until the last page are very old and anything said there about prices if there are any I missed cannot be trusted so look here and then to the last pages to get current.
I have unstuck that original thread you viewed earlier and created a new one with one post only containing the information you need just to be sure this confusion does not occur again for others so for that I thank you. My apologies though if you saw and old post and thought the prices were still valid in it.
Also, I don't do the work you asked about changing the blade.
STR
You might also note that I closed that thread quite some time ago. In fact I usually only refer folks to post number one and thats it.
This is the last paragraph in post number one in that thread.
Most of the posts that follow up until the last page are very old and anything said there about prices if there are any I missed cannot be trusted so look here and then to the last pages to get current.
I have unstuck that original thread you viewed earlier and created a new one with one post only containing the information you need just to be sure this confusion does not occur again for others so for that I thank you. My apologies though if you saw and old post and thought the prices were still valid in it.
Also, I don't do the work you asked about changing the blade.
STR
STR,
That one post clarifies the price of the titanium pocket clips. You were right about missing the part where you said at the end; I kept going looking for other posts by you. However, I am a bit confused about the drilling/threading for tip-up carry. Does the price of the pocket clip include drilling/threading for tip-up carry?
That is why I posted with those questions. I was wondering how much you charge for drilling/threading for the clip; i.e. Reversible, Tip-Up OR Tip-Down.
I apologize if my posts were confusing; I hope this one is more clear.
Thanks,
Spencer
That one post clarifies the price of the titanium pocket clips. You were right about missing the part where you said at the end; I kept going looking for other posts by you. However, I am a bit confused about the drilling/threading for tip-up carry. Does the price of the pocket clip include drilling/threading for tip-up carry?
That is why I posted with those questions. I was wondering how much you charge for drilling/threading for the clip; i.e. Reversible, Tip-Up OR Tip-Down.
I apologize if my posts were confusing; I hope this one is more clear.
Thanks,
Spencer
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
- Messages
- 12,955
Yeah I included that in the price. When I have the knife here and already out on the bench its not that big a deal to drill and thread some holes when everything is right in front of me anyway. If say I did the clip and you decided later you wanted other holes elsewhere I may charge a small amount but it wouldn't be anything you could not live with.
So long as you list out in the work order what it is I am expected to do to save me having to field through PMs and emails its a whole lot easier on me. Thats my main concern. I get too many contacts to have to mess with that. By the time I got the knife I was contacted about today I could have already cleaned out my PM box and had 300 emails sometimes so its a lot of work to track folks down sometimes especially when they contact me via Private message and then mail with a return address using their real name. I don't often times put them together and it can get a bit frustrating. Anyway, sorry for the rant.
I just got a knife today in the mail. Nothing else. Just a box, a return addy and a knife. No note, not mention of screen names, or email. Nothing and I don't even know who the guy is so its been sent right back in the mail since I have absolutely no idea what I'm supposed to do with it. I guess its just on my mind.
STR
So long as you list out in the work order what it is I am expected to do to save me having to field through PMs and emails its a whole lot easier on me. Thats my main concern. I get too many contacts to have to mess with that. By the time I got the knife I was contacted about today I could have already cleaned out my PM box and had 300 emails sometimes so its a lot of work to track folks down sometimes especially when they contact me via Private message and then mail with a return address using their real name. I don't often times put them together and it can get a bit frustrating. Anyway, sorry for the rant.
I just got a knife today in the mail. Nothing else. Just a box, a return addy and a knife. No note, not mention of screen names, or email. Nothing and I don't even know who the guy is so its been sent right back in the mail since I have absolutely no idea what I'm supposed to do with it. I guess its just on my mind.
STR
STR,
I completely understand what you're talking about. Whenever (if ever) I send a knife back to get maintenance, I always include a work order. I guess some people need to realize that Benchmade/Spyderco, etc..., won't know what to do with the knife unless a work order is included.
Your last post also clarified my confusion about the pricing for drilling/threading. May I suggest you add it to the info + mailing instructions thread in case others were wondering the same thing.
Now that the pricing is cleared up, I had another question for you. (I am pretty sure you can do this, but I wanted to make sure.) Since you can make low-rider clips that fit the stock holes and drill/thread additional holes, can you drill/thread these holes to fit the stock Para-Military clip?
I completely understand what you're talking about. Whenever (if ever) I send a knife back to get maintenance, I always include a work order. I guess some people need to realize that Benchmade/Spyderco, etc..., won't know what to do with the knife unless a work order is included.
Your last post also clarified my confusion about the pricing for drilling/threading. May I suggest you add it to the info + mailing instructions thread in case others were wondering the same thing.
Now that the pricing is cleared up, I had another question for you. (I am pretty sure you can do this, but I wanted to make sure.) Since you can make low-rider clips that fit the stock holes and drill/thread additional holes, can you drill/thread these holes to fit the stock Para-Military clip?
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How I do them is by using the two far 'wing' holes and disregard the middle top one because the low rider effectively covers that hole up anyway. I've found from making them both ways that the clips are just stronger if I don't drill a hole in the center in the middle to both access the pivot and to also screw that middle screw down. Some of those I did that way had to be redone because they broke.
Your question seems to say that you think I thread the holes in the clip. Maybe I'm not following you.
It may be that you are asking something else. If its about making a low rider that would mount for both tip down and tip up using one clip I don't think so on that knife and the reason is due to the curve of the clip. Its kind of curved the wrong way to reverse on the same side. In other words if I made a low rider for you for tip down right hand carry it could flip to tip up left hand carry and work fine but if I made it flip to tip down left hand its curved out way far the wrong way for the handle and it may not just look bad. On some they function and feel bad also.
Also, its very hard to make one clip work on many knives such as the Kershaw Leek among others that come drilled for both tip up and tip down carry. What happens is that if I make a clip for a customer fitting the original hole pattern already in the scale it can only mount in that one postion. It doesn't flip well if at all and in the case of the Leek even though the holes match up if you moved a tip up carry low rider to tip down it would overhang off the end of the folder in tip down mode and interfere with the blade opening because the thumb stop would bang the clip each time you went to open the blade. Not good.
STR
Your question seems to say that you think I thread the holes in the clip. Maybe I'm not following you.
It may be that you are asking something else. If its about making a low rider that would mount for both tip down and tip up using one clip I don't think so on that knife and the reason is due to the curve of the clip. Its kind of curved the wrong way to reverse on the same side. In other words if I made a low rider for you for tip down right hand carry it could flip to tip up left hand carry and work fine but if I made it flip to tip down left hand its curved out way far the wrong way for the handle and it may not just look bad. On some they function and feel bad also.
Also, its very hard to make one clip work on many knives such as the Kershaw Leek among others that come drilled for both tip up and tip down carry. What happens is that if I make a clip for a customer fitting the original hole pattern already in the scale it can only mount in that one postion. It doesn't flip well if at all and in the case of the Leek even though the holes match up if you moved a tip up carry low rider to tip down it would overhang off the end of the folder in tip down mode and interfere with the blade opening because the thumb stop would bang the clip each time you went to open the blade. Not good.
STR
STR,
I think that question may have confused you, I'll explain my intentions.
You know how some knives come with Reversible, Tip-Up OR Tip-Down pre-drilled holes, I wanted to make the Para-Military just like that with the stock clip. In other words, the Para-Military could be mounted right hand tip-up, right hand tip-down, left hand tip-up, left hand tip-down all with the stock clip.
After that has been done, I wanted a low rider clip just for tip-up, using the holes that have been made. I understand that the low rider clip covers up the top middle hole, but I would like it there for the stock clip.
The finished product will have 12 holes: 3 for right hand tip-up, 3 for right hand tip-down, 3 for left hand tip-up, 3 for left hand tip-down. These holes will also fit the stock clip. It will also have a low rider clip for tip-up carry.
I hope this better explains what I am asking. Please let me know if it is still confusing. I have the idea in my head, but putting it out for you is a little harder.
-Spencer
I think that question may have confused you, I'll explain my intentions.
You know how some knives come with Reversible, Tip-Up OR Tip-Down pre-drilled holes, I wanted to make the Para-Military just like that with the stock clip. In other words, the Para-Military could be mounted right hand tip-up, right hand tip-down, left hand tip-up, left hand tip-down all with the stock clip.
After that has been done, I wanted a low rider clip just for tip-up, using the holes that have been made. I understand that the low rider clip covers up the top middle hole, but I would like it there for the stock clip.
The finished product will have 12 holes: 3 for right hand tip-up, 3 for right hand tip-down, 3 for left hand tip-up, 3 for left hand tip-down. These holes will also fit the stock clip. It will also have a low rider clip for tip-up carry.
I hope this better explains what I am asking. Please let me know if it is still confusing. I have the idea in my head, but putting it out for you is a little harder.
-Spencer
- Joined
- Aug 27, 2004
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- 12,955
Yea that nails it. I will have to look at mine and see if I think one can work in tip down that is a straight clip. Most always the clips have to be straight to work in all four mount positions. I'll let you know but also I think I may have mistaken my interpretation for drilling the holes. I thought you meant when I have to just drill the holes to mount the clips for the spot I'm putting them in. For doing the other mount holes I would normally get like $2.50 per hole just incase I break one of the taps off threading or something.
STR
STR
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Sorry. In my head I posted but brain fart I guess. 
It happens!
Tip up is no problem with a straight clip. I believe I could make a standard clip for tip down easier than a low rider. But both are probably possible if you don't mind it leaning to the one side a tad.
STR
It happens! Tip up is no problem with a straight clip. I believe I could make a standard clip for tip down easier than a low rider. But both are probably possible if you don't mind it leaning to the one side a tad.
STR