Low Tech & Redneck- cutting a Cermic Platen Liner

[Dixieblade57]

Well in this post I asked a question about cutting a Ceramic platen liner.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/844271-Ceramic-Platen-Liners

Here is the low tech and redneck way of doing it complete with pics, but hey it works!


Click thumbnails for a larger view:

This is my platen and the as you can see from the tape I have it marked with the glass is about a 1/2" to long!
My bad!!! Do I send it back or attempt to make it work? Make it work!



I first scribed a line on both sides of the glass with my carbide scribe hoping if it snaps it will break on the line.



I then taped it too a heavy piece of 2" wide steel I had laying around so as not to get movement while cutting the glass.



As I said this low tech, a lid from a storage bin full of water and the hose pouring fresh water as I go. A diamond blade on my right angle grinder.





As you can see it did not shatter however it was not a smooth cut either. Note if I had to do over I would started by leaving it 1/8" longer than needed, (for sanding room).



I did however sand out the end and it turned out smooth; I also rounded the corners ever so slightly as well as the two ends. Note* sanding is very slow and be sure to keep it cool. I would not want to attempt to sand off more than an 1/8" in all.





And here it is the low tech red neck way, a nice bed of JB Weld and wait for drying!



Note* to self this side up (means do not touch the side cleaned and going to the epoxy)
I taped up the rollers to keep any epoxy off of them and used the rollers edge to line the platen glass. Like I said in the begining, Low Tech & Redneck- cutting a Cermic Platen Liner, but hey it will work!!!!!!!!

 

[Dixieblade57]

Come on guys 50 views and not one comment. It's OK to be low tech and red neck, especially if you fairly certain it will work.
This is meant to be somewhat humorus but to inform you that it will work. I watched a guy try to cut tempered/ plate (I forget which it was) like this one time and it would shatter every time before it cut through. That has to do with the glass is made to demension not cut to demension, even the guys who make can't cut it.
After examining the cermic glass I was pretty certain it would cut underwater. However I will say a true wet saw would probably be better in that you could slowly control the depth of the cut and keep it square at the same time. I guess I have been making and doing things the hard way all my life ( YOU HAVE TO LEARN TO IMPROVISE WHEN YOUR POOR)!

 

[Bill DeShivs]

Does your platen have a metal "shelf" for the glass to rest on?

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

You need to bolt or weld on a piece of 1/8" metal below the glass platen. The JB will probably hold for many years, but if it fails, it is not a happy moment. I have one that I epoxied on and lasted until I used a torch to remove it. I had another that fell of in 6 months. Luckily it fell off when I was removing the platen.

 

[FTO_dude]

i'm not saying my way is better, just different.
I took a piece of 1/4" brass the width of the platen and soldered it to create a shelf

 

[Dixieblade57]

Does your platen have a metal "shelf" for the glass to rest on?

Bill I am going to assume that by metal shelf we are not talking about this



the adjustable bracket on which the glass platen is actually epoxied?????????

Here is a couple of better shots of the glass platen installed on the machine.

You need to bolt or weld on a piece of 1/8" metal below the glass platen. The JB will probably hold for many years, but if it fails, it is not a happy moment. I have one that I epoxied on and lasted until I used a torch to remove it. I had another that fell of in 6 months. Luckily it fell off when I was removing the platen.

I am going to assume Bladsmith you are talking about a piece simialar to what FTODude is picturing in his photo.




So if I am following everyone here then there needs to be a retainer for the ends of the glass to keep it in place if the epoxy fails. I can handle this even though I have never heard this subject mentioned before in all I have read or heard about platens and the glass installation it sounds like a good fail safe.
The metal plate is attached by 10/32 cap screws from underneath the metal plate to arms that come out of the platen body allowing it to be adjustable up and down with 1/4x20 cap screws you see in the pic of the finished platen, allowing for height adjustment on the glass itself.
I will come in under that and add a brass clip that will bend up at each end of the glass and basically lock it in place in case of epoxy faillure.
I had drilled the plate that the glass is epoxied too so that it would get more of a bite but I can see the advantage of the retainer! Live and learn, never too old of dog to learn a new trick!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks for the heads up on this subject!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Yes, that is what we are talking about.
You only need it on the lower side of the glass, but both ends surely won't hurt..

 

[Josh Dabney]

Dixie,

Just an FYI- A silicon carbide grinding belt will grind the glass like butter. I used a 60 grit belt to shorten my glass but be SURE to wear a respirator !

Josh