Lowest angle for DMT Aligner?

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Mar 1, 2010
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Anybody have a DMT aligner please chime in. What is the lowest bevel angle you can get on a DMT aligner without any other mods or techniques other than the standard directions? I know it says 17 degrees in the manual, but is that per side or inclusive?
 
Per side and will depend on blade width, I think you can find the chart on DMT's site.

Using it with bench stones can get you lower.
 
Per side and will depend on blade width, I think you can find the chart on DMT's site.

Using it with bench stones can get you lower.

Yes, they are on the chart and I know by now that it depends also on blade width, so I know that these are approximate but are these per side or inclusive? If they are inclusive then the 2nd lowest notch should be hitting my whole bevel if the knife comes from the factory at more or less 30 degrees . Is this correct?
 
Its per side.

A knife coming from the factroy with a even bevel? You must have high hopes ;)
 
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If you are starting with a factory edge, and you want a 20° or less per side bevel, then I'd advise you get the extra coarse diamond hone in your set or you are going to be spending a long time sharpening.

I have NEVER had a factory edge that was fine enough for me, nor one that was even from base to tip. Most differed from one side to the other. (Customs not included.)

Greg
 
Its per side.

A knife coming from the factroy with a even bevel? You must have high hopes ;)

I see. So even if my factory bevel is at 30 degrees and I'm trying to reprofile at say 22 degrees I might still be hitting near the edge, before I get an even bevel? I don't necessarily have to hit the shoulders first?

@greg: I have the extra coarse.
 
Get the whole idea of a factory bevel out of your mind, it will only confuse you more. There is no way the factory put a 30 degree bevel on your knife, those type of statements are made to keep the masses happy.

If you set a lower angle than what is in place then yes, you will hit the shoulder and if higher then you will apply a microbevel. When using any guided system you must forget the bevel you have now and create a new one to match the tools settings. Start with your coarsest stone and grind a fresh bevel at the angle you desire, make sure you complete this first process with the most accuracy as it is the most important. Once you have created the bevel and used light finishing strokes to reduce the burr you can move on to finer grits to reduce your scratch pattern and increase sharpness.
 
Get the whole idea of a factory bevel out of your mind, it will only confuse you more. There is no way the factory put a 30 degree bevel on your knife, those type of statements are made to keep the masses happy.

If you set a lower angle than what is in place then yes, you will hit the shoulder and if higher then you will apply a microbevel. When using any guided system you must forget the bevel you have now and create a new one to match the tools settings. Start with your coarsest stone and grind a fresh bevel at the angle you desire, make sure you complete this first process with the most accuracy as it is the most important. Once you have created the bevel and used light finishing strokes to reduce the burr you can move on to finer grits to reduce your scratch pattern and increase sharpness.

Ok, thanks. I guess what I'm really asking is if I try to set a lower bevel than what I have now, and I'm hitting the present bevel nearer to the edge than to the shoulders, am I actually setting a lower angle?

I am asking this because when I set the aligner kit at the 2nd to the last notch, I thought I was putting a lower bevel on my knife. Since I was hitting the bevel, not quite on the edge but nearer to the edge than to the shoulders, was I actually sharpening at a higher angle even with the aligner set at 2nd to the lowest angle notch?

I'm sorry if I don't have the English skills to ask this right off. I really appreciate your input. thanks.

BTW, even at the last notch, the aligner doesn't hit any of my knives at the shoulder of the bevel. I may be doing something wrong.
 
I have an aligner. Only the lowest notch (closest to the clamp) will give you a smaller angle on most smaller blades. The tightening knob on the clamp gets in the way of the stone on that side of the clamp. I use the lowest notch on the side opposite the knob, then flip the blade and re-clamp it. It's a pain, but it works, and I only use the aligner to reprofile, then I sharpen or maintain sharpness with other methods, either a sharpmaker or strops, or both.
 
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