Lube Issues

Joined
Sep 5, 2005
Messages
273
Well, I'm on vacation visiting my parents and I notice that the action on my BM 9530 seems a bit dry. I look for some lube and locate a bottle of Outers gun lube in my folk's closet. I normally use Slip 2000 or Gunslick, but I think a couple drops of Outers lube will work ok. I apply a couple drops and the action frees up nicely. All seems well until I look at the knife a few minutes later and the lube has migrated from the pivot area, swamped the button and is starting to seep out of the seam where the two halves of the handle are joined. If I ever get this mess cleaned up, I will never use Outers again. It is WAY to thin and migrates to places where it need not go. I should have known better. I think I'll toss it and get my folks some decent lube.
 
Just out of curiousity, what liquid lubricant have you used that does not migrate?

Usually after applying lubricant to a knife (as well as other portable mechanical contrivances), I'll let it "drain" overnight onto a towel.
 
I have a case of the old "Outers Gunslick Metal Seal" (Ebay deal). I have not used it on my knives but it works great on my truck. It is about the only thing that will stop the suspension from squeaking. Usually lasts about a week before needing more. Good stuff.
 
Just out of curiousity, what liquid lubricant have you used that does not migrate?

Usually after applying lubricant to a knife (as well as other portable mechanical contrivances), I'll let it "drain" overnight onto a towel.

This stuff seemed to work almost like a penetrating oil. Here come the remarks about "penetrating."
 
I have a case of the old "Outers Gunslick Metal Seal" (Ebay deal). I have not used it on my knives but it works great on my truck. It is about the only thing that will stop the suspension from squeaking. Usually lasts about a week before needing more. Good stuff.

It did do a fine job of smothing out the action. No complaints there. I'm sure it will need more soon though as it migrates out of the pivot area.
 
I though the Penetraiting Quality was somthing you look for in a good Oil , My Oil penitrates and cleans everywhere you put it , Get all the gunk out and gives the knife a through cleanning in the process , maybe you should use Graphite ,it only goes where you put it , Inventor of Latama Quick Release
 
Well, I'm on vacation visiting my parents and I notice that the action on my BM 9530 seems a bit dry. I look for some lube and locate a bottle of Outers gun lube in my folk's closet. I normally use Slip 2000 or Gunslick, but I think a couple drops of Outers lube will work ok. I apply a couple drops and the action frees up nicely. All seems well until I look at the knife a few minutes later and the lube has migrated from the pivot area, swamped the button and is starting to seep out of the seam where the two halves of the handle are joined. If I ever get this mess cleaned up, I will never use Outers again. It is WAY to thin and migrates to places where it need not go. I should have known better. I think I'll toss it and get my folks some decent lube.

As you know from firearms....oil isn't so great on metal on metal moving parts. Oil to prevent corrosion, oil to penetrate/clean certain things...

For moving parts, lube will always be best. Slip 2000 is pretty great stuff.

Outers does have a decent cheap lube that would be suitable for knives' pivots....the Gunslick graphite grease.
 
It did do a fine job of smothing out the action. No complaints there. I'm sure it will need more soon though as it migrates out of the pivot area.

I usually use Militec, Eezox, Tuffglide or CLP on the knives and guns. I like to be able to use small amounts in specific areas. A light lube is good for cleaning and flushing but can get messy and may attract dirt if it does not dry well. Not sure if Outers is one of them, but many light lubes will provide good lubrication after the excess is cleaned off.
 
I though the Penetraiting Quality was somthing you look for in a good Oil , My Oil penitrates and cleans everywhere you put it , Get all the gunk out and gives the knife a through cleanning in the process , maybe you should use Graphite ,it only goes where you put it , Inventor of Latama Quick Release

It has to be a balance. Thin enough to get into the pivot and thick enough to stay there. Slip 2000 works great in that respect.
 
I find knives almost never actually need lubrication. Oiling tends to introduce problems with contamination that never would have occurred without. Knives I've come across that seem to need oil are ones that have been previously oiled, and are really more in need of cleaning. Additionally, knives generally don't operate under the extreme conditions, with enough friction to generate noticeable heat and wear. Wear surfaces on knives tend to be well engineered enough that they don't grind against each other.

This goes for AO knives, which I've come run dry to no ill effect, all the way down to the cheapest Chinese knives.

Oil must be used sparingly. It will wick into every crevice with time, so a little goes a long way. An alternative is to use a dry lube like graphite or a non oil lubricant, perhaps like some polymer suspended in a solvent. The idea being the solvent evaporates, leaving the minute amount of dry lubricant behind. I've tried some of these, and I haven't really found they have a noticeable effect at actually decreasing wear. Probably because knives tend to exhibit very low wear already.
 
That's really true, after a thorough degreasing they'll operate very tight for a while, but after some cycling will be almost as slick as they were with oil. The big problem is folks use way too much. With militec and most good lubes it's more than enough to apply some to a cloth and just lightly wipe it onto parts. There shouldn't be more than a light sheen to indicate there's lubricant there. That requires dissasembly so it's not something I do often, but the tiniest drop on each side of the pivot is usually enough for a few months, and because there's so little oil there it doesn't collect dust and dirt.
 
Knives need oil. I have seen the insides of hundreds that were not oiled, and blade tangs/springs were worn out.
Almost any oil will do.
Bill
 
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