Lubing your Sebenza

E

Edw00d

Joined
Jan 21, 2008
Messages
412
No, I'm not talking about :jerkit: :D

I noticed that CRK mentions fluorinated teflon grease for lubing their knives. Would Dupont Krytox work? (sounds like what they are talking about). I use it quite a bit to lube my flashlights, O-rings, and other rubber things.
 
I've never used the CRK-approved flourinated grease. I've tried various other lubricants and I've had good results with Miltec-1.

Recently, however, I stumbled upon what may be the best knife pivot lube ever. It's a bicycle oil called Phil's Tenacious Oil. It's distibuted by Phil Wood, the maker of some of the finest high precision bicycle components in the world. In fact, it would not be too much of a stretch to think of Phil Wood as the Chris Reeve of high-end bicycle components. Anyway, the Tenacious Oil is very thick and sticky -- somewhere between motor oil and grease. What I like about it is that it lasts MUCH longer than any of the other lubes I've tried.

http://www.philwood.com/Phil Tenacious Oil.htm

In any event, you're not stuck using flourinated grease. I think many would agree WD-40 is not a suitable lubricant for knife pivots, although it makes a good degreaser.
 
I know what you are talking about with regards to Krytox. It is similar in consistency to the more popular blends of Nyogel amongst the flashlight community. Personally I think Krytox would be too thick, as most knife pivots are lubed with a much lighter lubricant like Militec or Tuff Glide. However, if you do find that Krytox works well I will be interested to hear it.
 
i've been using tetra grease with decent results, very smooth. attracts some lint but nothing outrageous.
 
I use mine in the field and daily and I also take it apart about once a month or more to clean. I would not use any type of grease or thicker oil any time much less in cold weather. First they are dirt collectors and second they are just to thick / high visc. I use 3 in 1 oil or other light machine oil applied during re-assembly and periodically afterwards in very, very small amount. My Sebenza works smooth and fast every time and does not build up dirt and grime like grease would. Sorry but I think that is a bad suggestion. Any fine particles caught up in there will score up that bronze washer or other parts and a light oil is less likely to do that than a thicker lube of any kind.
 
Very true. The only problem with oil, however, is that it dissipates much faster than a grease.
 
Any thin synthetic oil (silicone type?) that works best. I know it's weird, but I just hate the smell of regular petroleum based oil.
 
About 10 years ago I bought a quart of Mobil 1 Synthetic motor oil. Used it ever since on Glocks, SIGs, various black rifles, Benchmades, Spydercos, Sebenzas, Smith & Wessons... you get the picture.
If they trust it to lubricate nearly all of the $40,000 Formula One engines revin at 9-11k it will work just fine on a pivot of a pocket knive.
 
I use 3 in 1 also, and when kept in small controlled quantities on the moving parts at reassembly, it works awesome. I have also used White Lightning, but I think the formulation has change lately, and it seems more "clumpy."

So, 3 in 1 is your friend, just clean and lube carefully and wipe down excess.
 
I picked up a tube of Chris Reeve's grease and it seems to work fine. Unlike oils that tend to "creep" it seems to stay where you put it. I use just enough to let the thrust washers stick to the blade on reassembly then put a dab on the ceramic ball. Unless I wash the whole knife in hot water, this seems to work for 4-6 weeks before I relube the ceramic ball while the washers seems to stay just fine.
 
I have been using REM OIL on all my folders and it works well. When I have cleaned a CRK folder, I just add a couple of drops under the bushing and its good to go. Lasts a long time too.
 
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