Lubricating a Microtech Folder

[Dark Nemesis]

I picked up a MTX2 at the show this month, but had an unexpected surprise with the screws. They seem to have switched over to some proprietary stuff that looks like nothing I've seen before.

The motion isn't very smooth and I'm certain it's just from a lack of lubricant...very familiar feeling. However After a couple of applications and several hundred flips it doesn't feel like the lube is where it needs to be or is being distributed correctly. Since I can't open it, how can I get it lubricated properly? Any suggestions are welcome. Thanks

 

[yoda4561]

I think what you're feeling is similar to how my Mini-socom feels with lighter lubricants, don't bother with dissasembly. What are you using now?? The thicker lubes like Break-Free seem to work best, and I've had great luck with FP-10, but that was after a few thousand cycles, before that the action was always kind of not-slick feeling, I could hear the metal on metal and assumed it was due to the coating on the blade rubbing against the milled in aluminum "washers"

 

[jefff]

I am 100% impressed with the Militec-1 synthetic dry weapons lubercant!!!! it goes on very thin and able to seep into everything then hit it with a hair dryer for about 2 mins to heat it up and repeat this procedure 3 times and it will be like glass! my M16-04 had this same grinding type feeling and now after treating it is like ball bearings on glass scary smooth! I was very leary until I sent off for a sample and tried it out but man this will be the stuff I will buy from now on for my knives and firearms
~Jeff

 

[GarageBoy]

Is it possible to WD40 the old lube/crud out and relube?

 

[LaBella]

RemOil is whats used at the factory.

I use it and have had zer0 problems!!

 

[TorzJohnson]

I picked up a MTX2 at the show this month, but had an unexpected surprise with the screws. They seem to have switched over to some proprietary stuff that looks like nothing I've seen before.

If you ever need to take it apart, you can get the special drivers at BurnKnives.com.

 

[SIFU1A]

rem oil works good on my MTs and as labella says is what MT says to use, i use the rem oil or tuffglide, it works well also.

i would think millitec would be good too.

 

[yoda4561]

Oops, just noticed this again and looked up that particular model, that's what I get for assuming that the MTX had milled aluminum handles Is the construction similar to the old LCC's? with bronze washers and a "wave" pressure washer? If it is then I'd give it a quick flush with gunscrubber or some hot soapy water(rinse well) and then use militec or FP-10. The bolster releases usually have lots of sharp corners and stuff that are a bit rough when they're fairly new, it'll smooth out in time.

 

[DGG]

Clean it good in hot soapy dishwashing detergent. Then use C.L.P. which is like Rem-Oil but what the military uses and usually less in price. Either is very good but I like CLP (clean-lubricate-protect). It works well in Iraq!!!

 

[geekswithguns]

I looooooove millitec- but for the record I hear that its best point (thick) means its a no-no for microtech OTFs (read a horror story about someone rendering theirs inoperable from gumming up the myriad teent-tiny works)- should be fine for a side opener though...its what benchmade uses in the factory. Millitec will even send you a free sample if you email them.

 

[yoda4561]

No it's fine, it won't gum, neither will remoil to my knowlege. WD-40 will though as do most(but not all) non-synthetics when left exposed to oxygen long enough. The key to OTF's is to use as little oil as possible, and make sure it's one that won't harden over time. The first point is actually more important that alot of people think, too much oil will slow the action down and serve as little more than a dust magnet that WILL eventually gunk up the action. C.L.P type lubricants are generally not recommended for OTF's, as they contain solid PTFE particles which come out of suspension rather easily (ever see the large clear mil-type bottles?? imagine all that solid gunk in the lockwork of one of those high precision OTFs). There are some "CLP" lubes that do work fine, but they will be the ones that contain no solids that can come out of suspension. An easy way to tell is if it says "shake before using", that's usually a pretty clear indicator that it contains solids that will settle over time.