Lubricating ZDP-189 w/Black coating

V

vcw

Joined
Jun 21, 2007
Messages
80
Hello,

What would be the best oil(non-toxic) for lubricating a ZDP-189 Blade, with a black coating, and the whole knife (mechanism, on/off switch, A/O)?
My knife is a Kershaw Mini Cyclone TIZDP(Titainium Handles, and ZDP-189 Blade W/coating).
Would Silicone, Hoppe's 9, or WD-40 be good?

Thanks!

vw
 
I think silicone might make it too slippery
WD-40 has solvent like properties; don't think that's your best choice
Hoppe's has it's place, but it's better for its original use on guns.

I really think you'd be best off with Tuf-Cloth/Tuf-Glide to coat the blade,
and my personal favorite, FP-10 for the pivot, A/O, etc.
Or else just FP-10 for the whole job.

IMHO there's nothing better.

BUT...people have their favorites in this area, and wouldn't be surprised to see a bunch of different recommendations.

_______________________________________________

Add'l info posted below - missed "non-toxic" in OP, sorry
 
Why would you want to lubricate the blade? It's stainless and coated, too. If you don't live in a very corrosive environment or have very corrosive sweat or want to store the blade for the next ten years, you don't need any lubrication. But if you insist, personally I like mineral oil for the blade.

For the mechanism I have always liked synthetic motoroil, but you need tiny amounts. One drop is already too much.
 
I assume since you wanted something non-toxic that you are going to use the knife on food.
Pharmaceutical grade mineral oil is suitable for this.
If all you want to do is lubricate the pivot, then the very small amounts of oil needed, and the likelihood of the food touching the pivot may mean that any oil, toxic or not, is OK.
I personally use Militec for the pivots and keep the blades clean and dry.
Greg
 
rifon2 said:
I think silicone might make it too slippery
WD-40 has solvent like properties; don't think that's your best choice
Hoppe's has it's place, but it's better for its original use on guns.

I really think you'd be best off with Tuf-Cloth/Tuf-Glide to coat the blade,
and my personal favorite, FP-10 for the pivot, A/O, etc.
Or else just FP-10 for the whole job.

IMHO there's nothing better.

BUT...people have their favorites in this area, and wouldn't be surprised to see a bunch of different recommendations.
Click to expand...

Wooops, missed that "non-toxic" in the OP.
Well then - yes, food grade mineral oil available in just about any drugstore works well and is very inexpensive.

Though, as someone asked, why lube a coated stainless blade?
Oh well, your knife, your choice...
 
rifon2 said:
Though, as someone asked, why lube a coated stainless blade?
Oh well, your knife, your choice...
Click to expand...

Oh, I thought rust could go through the coating.
Now I'll just need it for the mechanisms.

Thanks!
 
The DLC coating is very, very good as far as coatings go. It is very unlikely to scratch off in normal use but it will of course rub off when in contact with an abrasive and no the blade will not rust through the coating. The ZDP-189 steel is less corrosion resistant than other stainless steels, but it is still a stainless steel and shouldn't corrode in normal use. Some people that use ZDP-189 around water or have very corrosive sweat have reported minor discoloration though.
 
Camilla oil. It's what woodworkers use on their planes and chisles as a rust preventative when they want a natural oil that won't affect wood finishes later on.
 
Never a good idea to use oil of any sort on pivots. Oil attracts fluff and grit, which then becomes an abrasive paste.

WD40 is a water displacement spray, read the label. It says it will do other things, but that is its purpose. When WD40 dries, the solvent evaporates and leaves a residue. This residue is sticky. Spray some WD40 on a sheet of glass, leave it for a month and then feel it.

The best stuff for knife pivots is Jigaloo. It is a dry silicone spray. http://www.jigaloo.com/en/
 
If it is oil or solvent, no! :>)

Hoppes is gun oil isn't it? Is your knife a gun? Eek, just checked. Why are you lubricating your pivot with a solvent? Are there any plastic of nylon bushing in your Kershaw that might dissolve from using solvent on them?
http://www.hoppes.com/products/solvents.html

It is for 'removing powder, lead, metal fouling and rust'. In addition 'Ultra potent' and 'safe' are not two words I would normally sit next to each other.

Mmm, looking at the website again, why is everything called Number 9! OK, if you used Hoppes 9, Dry Lube, great, it is perfect and is described perfectly for a knife pivot.

Of course I am joking a little. In my view, and that of my mentor George, nylotron bearings and washers, and a dry silicone lubricant is the best solution for knife pivots. Any knife kept in the pocket and used often will attract fluff and grit. Mixed with oil, this provides an excellent grinding paste. I don't know how often you use you knife a day, but I used mine about 12 or 15 times today. Add that up over a few years. Every time you open that knife with the grinding paste in it, you are removing a miniscule amount of metal.
 
Greg said:
I assume since you wanted something non-toxic that you are going to use the knife on food.
Pharmaceutical grade mineral oil is suitable for this.
If all you want to do is lubricate the pivot, then the very small amounts of oil needed, and the likelihood of the food touching the pivot may mean that any oil, toxic or not, is OK.
I personally use Militec for the pivots and keep the blades clean and dry.
Greg
Click to expand...

Hi Greg',
I heard postive stuff on this Militec stuff.
I normally keep my folders dry and not lubricated . The knives i edc daily i'll give them a WD40 spray to clean the blade/ pivot/lock area. After that i wash them with dishcleaner hot water and let them dry open.

With new folders which have to break in i use the Tri Flow Cera-Teflon stuff (only on pivot and lock area). After a good wd40 dishwash. This stuff they used to maintain repaired ballbearings before they came in sealed units.

Also 50/50 mixture of kerozine/ pse gunoil is very good for cleaning.

You can't compare it to the 'TRi Flow' stuff that comes in cans nowadays when you google it it isnot the same brand manifactor. It is also used at my friends shootingclub's shooting range for higher trigger/bullet velocity and prohibited in shooting contests.
They have here the last large barrel of that stuff and can't get it anymore as it is no longer on market .

Could you or anyone else tell me if this Militec don't let any greasy or wet film on the knife so it doesn't atrack stuff to act as grinding paste????
And how well is it in using with firearms?

Greatings from a felly way down in the netherlands Europe



A Salut to all my fellowmen working their butt of in uruzqan aghanistan.
 
Maarten said:
Hi Greg',
I heard postive stuff on this Militec stuff.
I normally keep my folders dry and not lubricated . The knives i edc daily i'll give them a WD40 spray to clean the blade/ pivot/lock area. After that i wash them with dishcleaner hot water and let them dry open.

With new folders which have to break in i use the Tri Flow Cera-Teflon stuff (only on pivot and lock area). After a good wd40 dishwash. This stuff they used to maintain repaired ballbearings before they came in sealed units.

Also 50/50 mixture of kerozine/ pse gunoil is very good for cleaning.

You can't compare it to the 'TRi Flow' stuff that comes in cans nowadays when you google it it isnot the same brand manifactor. It is also used at my friends shootingclub's shooting range for higher trigger/bullet velocity and prohibited in shooting contests.
They have here the last large barrel of that stuff and can't get it anymore as it is no longer on market .

Could you or anyone else tell me if this Militec don't let any greasy or wet film on the knife so it doesn't atrack stuff to act as grinding paste????
And how well is it in using with firearms?

Greatings from a felly way down in the netherlands Europe



A Salut to all my fellowmen working their butt of in uruzqan aghanistan.
Click to expand...

Militec does go on wet, like a synthetic oil.

I apply Militec to the pivot, work the blade, and then wash it well.
And then dry it well, including using compressed air.

The Militec remains as a lube in the pivot, but the oily "carrier" has been washed away.
Any doubts, just bring it to your nose...you'll be able to smell that unique Militec aroma. :)
 
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