Luong La (Bluntcut Metalworks) 52100 Hard Use

bodog

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Let me preface this test and review by saying that Luong La of Bluntcut Metalworks is a gentleman. He's asked nothing from me but honesty and neutrality concerning this review. I feel privileged that he's asked me to test one of his knives. This test was initiated because of my test and review of a Zero Tolerance 0180 fixed blade knife made with the really great steel Vanadis 4 Extra.

Once I posted the review of the ZT 0180 Luong and I communicated via email and within a week he had a knife sent to me made of regular old 52100 from Aldo Bruno of New Jersey Steel Baron. I haven't used any 52100 before so I was excited and a little apprehensive about this task. I want to remain as neutral as possible and report the good, bad, and ugly while not giving any disrespect or disservice to any party involved while also giving deference to any prospective buyer of the aforementioned suppliers.

Luong has talked about his ability to make common steels such as 52100 and D2 much better via superior heat treatment. He says it's via super quenching the steel which results in an ultra fine grain that is not common via normal heat treatment regimens. He purports that this super quenching gives superior toughness and strength and an increase in edge retention of the steel. I honestly cannot attest to that. I can only report what I see and the final results compared to other products produced.

I recently tested a Zero Tolerance 0180 made of the new and relatively unknown Vanadis 4 Extra. This steel is extremely close to Crucible's 4V. If you want to research the two steels you can if you want. The bottom line is that both are purported to be close to 3V In toughness and close to M4 in wear resistance. Now any of you steel junkies should know that's a tall order for any steel. Well, after I tested Vanadis 4E processed by Zero Tolerance I can say I was extremely impressed. I mean, very, very impressed.

Anyone who's been on Blade Forums for more than a year can probably remember some of my rants and raves about ZT and their products. When I say I am impressed by a Zero Tolerance knife that means that some serious negative bias has been overcome. Well, it's true, I was very, very impressed by the Zero Tolerance 0180 and especially Vanadis 4E. I really don't know if ZT is the reason I was impressed or Bohler Uddelholm who produces Vanadis 4E should be commended or both. What I do know is that ZT spec'ed their 0180 with V4E at 62 HRC +/- 1. That's a pretty high hardness for a rough use knife and the results can be seen in my testing thread of the ZT 0180.

Luong La of Blunt Metalworks has produced a knife for me to test that is very similar to the ZT 0180. I don't have calipers or postal scales or any other precision equipment to make exact comparisons. I just have my eyes and hands to see and feel any differences.

He sent the knife and I wasn't planning to make a direct comparison to any other knife. When I received it I couldn't help but notice it's very close measurements to the ZT 0180. Well, I can compare these, I thought. The spine is close to the same. The width of the blade behind the edge is close. The edge angle is close. The lengths of the blade and handles are close. The handle dimensions and shapes are close. The hardness of the steels are close. This should make for a fair battle between two knives. One from a very well known knife maker who produces hard use knives in bulk using the latest and greatest steels and technologies and one from a small independent maker using tried and true quality steels with some important and kind of obscure tweaks to their heat treatments.

The ZT 0180, of course, is using Vanadis 4E. The handles are made from thick slabs of black G10. It's an outstanding knife for those who want an all purpose utility knife capable of hard use, fine work, and everything in between. It performs those duties well. It normally costs about 220 bucks on the street though I was able to get one brand new for about 130 bucks brand new in box. It includes a mediocre sheath that does not perform all that well with the specific knife it was paired with. The sheath pairing was disappointing, to say the least.

Luong sent me a test knife to match up head to head with the ZT 0180. I did not expect a fully functional knife. I expected a half knife that I could wail on and show what his heat treatment could do to a known steel and nothing else.

Well, when I received it I was pleasantly surprised that I was holding a knife that, on first impressions, was absolutely something I would carry everyday. It came with a kydex sheath that fit very well and I've already used with a degree of satisfaction. It does not rattle and sits securely in the sheath and still leaves the knife easily extractable.

Luong quoted the knife as being about .020 inches behind the edge set at about 16 degrees per side. He did say that the knife was hand sharpened then finished on a Shapton 5k stone, eyeballed at about 15 or 16 degrees per side. When I put the knife on my generic edge pro I found that the edge was about 22 degrees per side at the tip narrowing to about 15 degrees per side near the ricasso with a slight convex grind because of the hand sharpening. It could easily shave hairs off my arm and was definitely toothy enough to grab and push and draw cut newspaper. I was a little sad that I had to modify the edge so that I could put this knife and the ZT 0180 would be on the same playing field. The edge as it came was well done for its stated purpose and was ready to roll and it wouldn't normally need any modification at all. The only reason I messed with it was to give as close to an even playing ground as possible. The upcoming tests are going to have inherent variables as it stands. I can at least try to make it closer by having the edge angles close. But that wasn't quite good enough for me. Luong wants to see if his heat treatment is better. That means that I needed to take the edge down a little from the ZT 0180. I had the 0180 at an even 16, almost 17, degrees per side with no microbevel finished up to 14 thousand grit. For Luong's steel to be declared as better it needed to actually be better so I am now finishing it at an even 15 degrees per side up to the same 14 thousand grit. If Luong's 52100 comes out on top then it will be because it's an obviously better steel and heat treatment rather than some variable like thicker edge angle or whatever.

Luong's handle is a beautiful (seriously) gabon ebony with the right amount of dark chocolate grains running through it. For you wood junkies you know that gabon ebony is a treat. It's not the least expensive wood on the market. For a test knife it's definitely a high grade addition. Upon first inspection the knife filled my hand extremely well and was immediately much more comfortable than the ZT 0180. If I had to compare this knife's fit and finish to something then I'd compare it to Bob Dozier's or Daniel Winkler's knives. Now remember, this is a test knife whipped up in a couple of days by Luong. There is a mild distal taper in the tang and the gabon ebony handles are thick. These are not scrap pieces of wood. Luong is coming out of his corner swinging hard. I will post the steel performance results within the next day or two but for now here are some pictures of the knife compared to other common knives including the ZT 0180. I'm looking forward to seeing the results myself.
 
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Out of the box:

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I don't know what the thicknesses behind the edge are but you can see Luong's (on the left) is easily thinner.
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Spine thickness is about the same at the thickest:
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Blade length and width are about the same with Luong's being a little longer, the picture gives a little bit of a false perception regarding width:
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I finished up the tests today and now its time for the results. The knife was comfortable throughout. When I dropped the edge to 15 degrees per side it left very little steel to support the edge. I knew that I was going to push the knife into uncomfortable territory by trying to replicate most of the tests I did with the 0180. To start with I went to the same tree I cut down with the 0180. I cut through it easier than with the 0180 but the edge was too thin. It started rolling a little bit. Not bad, but enough to where I knew I'd screwed up and took too much metal off and made the edge too thin. I went back and put another bevel at 18 degrees per side. The edge and the primary bevel behind the edge were still clearly thinner than the 0180. I started to wonder if the knife would perform well. I pushed forward, at this point the knife is going to sink or swim. I went to the same barn as before and cut basically the same stuff using the same methods, basically cutting, chopping, and stabbing whatever I might need to do with a knife plus a couple extra things that would simply test the steel.
 
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It's hard to tell but I awled into that piece at least an inch deep.
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Basic prying to see if the tip was strong enough for the upcoming abuse.
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Cutting the rubber shoe was much easier than with the 0180.

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This was the edge at this point, some degradation.
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PVC, still easy to cut. This time instead of just cutting a pipe in half I cut through it lengthwise.
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Same cinder block. The ZT performance on the left, Luong's knife's performance on the right. So far everything I've cut has been cut more cleanly and with more precision with Luong's knife.
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Same grease can
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Now the nail test. I don't know what's up with these nails but they are hard as shit. It took me about 15 good thumps to actually get it cut in two. The ZT test caused an old hammer to break and still didn't cut through one of em. Other videos show nails being cut with 3 to 4 good thumps. Maybe I'm just weak...
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Same pot
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Same tire to show the knife still cuts
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Easy test but I guess some people may like to see it
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Surprisingly this softball was one of the hardest things to cut. First I had to hammer the blade through the core and then it got stuck. A knife with a softball stuck on it isn't any good so I had to beat the softball off. Then I had to baton through it with a piece of 2x4 (not the one shown). That ball did not want to give up the ghost but the knife eventually won.
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Here's the same license plate. Two ZT cuts on the left, one cut from Luong's knife on the right. Luong's cuts better, no doubt about it. I was going to go ahead and cut the plate in half because it was cutting through it so easily, much more so than the ZT, but then it bent so in said screw it.
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And after all that the knife could still do this
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So what do I think.

I think matching Luong's super quenched 52100 to Vanadis 4E is hard. They're both equally capable of handling rough and dirty work. They're both hard, strong and tough. Where the Vanadis 4E chipped, the 52100 dented and rolled but didn't fracture. Vanadis 4E has higher wear resistance but at a significantly higher cost. There are tradeoffs and pros and cons with both.

I can more easily compare the two knives as whole packages. I think Luong's knife made of 52100 with his heat treatment giving 61 HRC is better than the ZT. The only reason it looks a little worse than the ZT is because Luong's knife is thinner behind the edge with a more acute edge angle. It did some really hard things with not a lot of material to support it at the edge.

His knife did not get uncomfortable at all during the test. Unlike with the ZT where I had to take a break due to hand fatigue and soreness, I plowed right through all the same stuff with Luong's knife in one day.

Luong's knife came with a better sheath.
Luong's knife is lighter.
Importantly, Luong's knife cut things much easier.

And in the words of one of my coworkers, Luong's knife has soul. It's hard to describe what that means. It looks handmade, like someone took a piece of themselves and made a knife with it, but that doesn't really describe it accurately because there are a ton of careless and crappy handmade knives out there. I guess it's more along the lines of your mom's or grandmother's food versus some restaurant. It may not be perfect, but it's made with a genuine desire to please, and it does, more so than most other knives I've held. Actually, a pretty fair analogy is that the Vanadis 4E is some prime kobe beef and Aldo's 52100 is some grade A prime Nebraska beef. Zero Tolerance is like Ruth's Chris steakhouse and Luong is your grandfather who's been grilling some steaks on a fire pit for years. Take your pick, both will be great, but I bet your grandfather grilling up some Nebraska steaks will be more satisfying.

I came in from the test and have been sharpening it for about an hour already. I took a break from that to post these pictures and my thoughts. Most of the damage, minus that one large dent, is already gone. Actually, most of the damage was gone in about 15 minutes.

I'll be back with how long it took to fully repair the edge and get it cleaned up.
 
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That's a lot of work Bodog. Thank you for going to all that work and documenting it here.

I really enjoy "super quenched" 52100. That should mean 3 hardening cycles at least a day apart each, three tempers naturally and then cryo? Very time consuming if done correctly but worth it IMO.

Sharpening can then make or break the blade. Skipping from really low grit up to the high grits can effect the edge quality even though the edges may look similar, they aren't. Really mashing on the stone to grind steel faster can also change the performance and negate the qualities inherent in the steel. That is something I found out personally back when looking at reasons some S30V was chipping sometimes, but not others.

I'm just stating this for the record as this thread will come up in the future when folks do a search for Super Quench 52100, etc. I'm not trying to say anything about the above knife or Bodogs abilities. I consider him more experienced than me on these knives and he obviously knows about using them too.

All in all that was a tough test of steel and the maker should always be respected when handing a knife over for a hard test knowing all can see the results both good or bad. It shows confidence as well as a desire to learn and improve the product if needed.

Bodog, 4V /V4E and 52100 are both in my top tier for using knives. Thanks for posting your results where we can benefit from them.

Joe
 
Bodog -
I'll add my thanks as well. I think we have many of the same questions regarding what we can expect from blades and steels, especially at the limits of what we might do with a knife. Although very standardized tests like Ankerson's are really valuable in some ways, they are also very limited (as he himself would and has acknowledged) in others. Your experiments are definitely in the range of what knife-as-tool users might do themselves simply because that is the tool available at the moment.
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I don't normally find myself cutting through nails, license plates, or cinder blocks, but I have very often found myself accidentally hitting a hidden nail or screw which can easily deform an edge, I've made bad cuts into a boxes with any number of random things on the other side like metal cans and glass bottles and a glancing blow will roll an edge, and I've needed to cut things on asphalt and a slip is hell on an edge. I think these tests accurately represent these things. If a knife can survive these tests then a slip or bad cut or random things accidentally cut should be no problem. Wear resistance in a steel is great if the steel is tough enough to do rough work. Without toughness and strength wear resistance is pretty futile. It's the combination of the three factors along with the edge and blade profiles that lead to high edge retention, not one or two of those factors alone.

For another comparison, here is a spyderco in S30V sharpened to 15 dps. I cut some banana boxes, some furniture boxes, and opened a can of condensed milk. The edge looks like crap. What would happen to that edge if I was shaving some wood from a pallet and hit a nail? I think the question really needs no answer. If some boxes and super soft steel does that I can imagine what even a light accidental hit on a nail would do.

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And to The Mastiff, you sir, I can assure you, are more experienced and knowledgeable than I am. Thank you for the compliment.
 
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I gave myself about the same amount of time to repair the edge and clean the knife up. I only got up to 8000 grit. I had an easily functional blade in maybe half an hour of grinding on a 160 grit stone. The bulk of the time it took was just removing the dent from the nail test. Compared to the ZT it took less than half the time to restore a good edge that would work in most situations. It took longer to restore a good, even edge from tip to heel because the single larger dent. Since I don't normally cut nails the time it took to remove the deformation is kind of a non-issue anyway. The edge on this knife as it sits now isn't quite up to my usual standards so I'm going to spend a little more time on it but as you can see its still a fine edge. After I get the edge where I want it I'll cut up some cardboard to test the wear resistance. I have my thoughts about what's going to happen but I'll save them because I could be wrong.

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Man I like this knife. I took it to work and did a little comparison with my sprint PPT in S30V. This knife cut very well. No denting, rolling, or chipping except where I cut into a quadruple layer of cardboard and right into some freaking grinding wheels. The edge held up great, seriously great. I cut up a couple of boxes with the PPT and the edge already has some shine to it. No accidental hits against anything. Just cardboard, tape, pallet straps, and plastic wrap.

They're sharpened at close to the same angle of about 18 degrees per side. This knife is a rock star. You wouldn't know the spine is as thick as what it is. I cut quite a bit more with Luong's knife than the PPT. The results SHOULD speak for themselves.

And yes, I confess I pried open a crate with it because I was too lazy to walk over and grab a crowbar.

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Oh, I forgot to mention that instead of putting my knife away in its sheath each time, I'd cut something open and stab it into a pallet to keep it handy. So that tip is a result of that, too. I doubt simply stabbing it into pallet wood about 50 times did anything significant, though.
 
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PPT in S30V

What's funny is that the damage is about the same near the tip yet I hit some freaking grinding wheels (SERIOUSLY, GRINDING WHEELS) with Luong's knife and cut solely cardboard with the PPT. That's pretty impressive to me.

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And no, I didn't stab this one into anything but cardboard and tape :D
 
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