M2 and corrosion resistance?

J

Jackal

Joined
Oct 5, 1998
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I recently got a BM 730CFHS, and have been looking to trade the blade for a satin one, with the lesser steel, but have been unsuccessful in finding someone with a plain edge. :(

...so I am considering having the BT2 coating removed and running it naked, but I'm afraid of rust. I'm also afraid that if I keep the BT2 coating, it might scratch up and look like crap. I dunno why BM had to use M2 in a knife that more than likely wouldn't normally be used. :confused:

Since no one will swap my premium blade for a "junk" one... ;) ...you guys could at least give me some advice on what to do about my dilemma. Thanks!!!

BTW, already called BM, they aren't any help either.

-AR
 
I'm corn-fused. Are you planning on using it, or are you worried it will rust under the BT2 without using? If you aren't going to use it, I wouldn't worry; the BT2 should work fine keeping the steel protected, and shouldn't scratch. ;) If you are going to use it, I would recommend using the M2 blade as is until the BT2 gets scratched enough that you can't stand it, then get the BT2 removed. M2 will rust, but it isn't like it is going to rust while you look at it! :D I removed the coating from a Nimravus Cub M2, and the only time I've seen any corrosion at all was when I used it in the rain, put it in the sheath, and left it for a few hours. It had some small rust spots on it the next time I removed it from the sheath, which wiped off very easily. And I've never had any other problem with it.
 
Well, light use maybe. I suppose I could bring myself to leave the coating on for now. ;) Thanks man.

-AR
 
Jackal,

Rockspyder has it nailed. I have been carrying my 730cfhs almost exclusively for the past four months and subjecting it to everything. I have wore some of the black off around the various grind lines and the tip but that is about it. Various scratches on the blade that did not penetrate to the steel. I plan on using mine for quite awhile as is, it still looks nice. When it gets too bad I will give it a nice satin finish and go from there. It is a super blade and I would not even consider swapping it for a 154-cm blade. This stuff takes a great edge very easily and holds it for a good long time. Keep it, you won't be sorry.
 
Really? Thanks again guys...I just may do that, though I am considering sending to it Bodycote for Boride coating, if they can satin finish my blade, or at least get a REALLY super fine blasted finish. I hate that I'm so damned picky. :(

Do you guys have any info. / opinions on this?

-AR
 
Yeah, leave it on for now. Always easy to take it off later if you decide it's too scratched. Hard to put it back on if you decide otherwise, ya know. ;)

{EDIT - This post was being written before anyone mentioned Bodycote. I have no opinion on Bodycote as I have no experience with it at all. I think they are the ones that do Rob Simonich's blades, which look pretty dang impressive. However, all my blades from him (unfortunately, only two... so far) are just bead blasted, or satin finished.}
 
The Bodycoat finish is superb. I have seen a couple of blades that they did in person, and the finish is very nice, but it isn't real glossy, it is very dull.

Bodycoat will bead blast the BT2 coating off for you. Get the two layer, Chromium carbide and Boron carbide treatment, then you won't have to worry about rust or wear.

I did exactly what you are trying to do however, but what I did was find a used 730 for sale, bought it, swapped the blades, then sold the other one to make the money back. Actually I put the M-2 blade in a 735 handle, and the 735 blade in the 730 handle and sold that. So know I have a 730CF and a 735HS. The best of everything.
 
Why the heck is everyone so scared crapless of there carbon blades rusting? Its not like its going to rust and fall apart while you are on your way to work or something. I have a 4" custom fixed blade that has yet to show signs of rust even after use in the rain/water. Its all in the HT, if its got a good HT then it should be fine, just coat it in some kinda polish like tuf-cloth or flintz and wipe it dry before putting it in the sheath and you will be fine. Just my .02 cents.
 
Steve, the boron carbide finish isnt actually a dull grey or black, this is entirely dependant on the finish of the blade under the coating. If the blade is mirror polished, the coating will be a mirror black, same goes for bead blasting, it'll be a dull grey. The coating is only 2 microns thick, so it hides absolutely nothing. Under the Benchmade's Black T coating is a horridifying rough grind and bead blast ;) Trust me, I satin finished mine with sandpaper. the bead blast and grinding marks under the finish required so much metal removal to smooth out that I now need some slightly thicker spacers for the knife :eek:

PS: I consider M2's rust resistance to be just fine. It doesnt rust nearly as fast as a plain carbon steel. I'd say its somewhere between D2 and 154CM in rust resistance.
 
Originally posted by yoda4561
I consider M2's rust resistance to be just fine. It doesnt rust nearly as fast as a plain carbon steel. I'd say its somewhere between D2 and 154CM in rust resistance.
Click to expand...

"Between" D2 and 154CM? Implying that it is better than D2? I'd definitely have to disagree with that. My D2 knives (Rinaldi, REKAT, Wilkins, and Camillus) have exhibited a quite a bit better corrosion resistance than M2. Meaning I've only seen one small spot of rust on one of my D2's, while the one M2 I mention above did have quite a few spots. Oh well, as you can see, I have a bit more experience with D2 than M2, and not a bad experience with either. :)
 
Okay, maybe I should clarify a bit there :p My afck's satin finish is somewhere roundabouts 600 grit, then polished so its reeeealy shiny, the D2 knives I've used looked to be about a 320-400 grit finish without any additional buffing, so thats most of it there I think. I've never had a chance to play with any polished D2 blades, have to put one of those on my to-buy list :)
 
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