M2 vs, D2

M

mdalby

Joined
Jan 4, 2007
Messages
18
I am looking at the Benchmade 710. Is it worth an extra $150+ to get a M2 version?

I think if I spread that $150 over the life of hte knife and get what I want then I should maybe do it.

If I am not really going to be able to tell the difference then I should save the $150 and pay for a couple of dates with my wife.

Anyone have both that can give me some advice?
 
What do you do with it, what do you want it to do well, what don't you care about, what is your experience level, sharpening skill, etc. .

-Cliff
 
It is going to be my EDC. I have not been a real talented sharpener. I am mostly a city guy and wouldn't be giving it HARD use every day but I like to prepare for the worst. Due to my not having a lot of sharpening skills I was thinking the M2 might be better for me since it would retain the edge better.

The most important factors for me are the following:
- Sharp
- Retains edge well and not require a lot of sharpening
- TOUGH since I may have to depend on this knife in a survival scenario

The potential rust factor is not a main consideration
 
The 710 is a tremendous knife design. My favorite folder.

The primary difference between the two steels is there ability to attain a blistering sharp edge. The D2 edge is toothier than the M2.

They both require a better than average sharpening skill and need to be maintained regularly to avoid geting blunt. Once they get dull they're both a bear to get sharp unless you have decent sharpening equipment. But once sharp, they both stay sharp for a very long time.

The M2 gets shaving sharp and stays that way for a very long time but I still think you'll be pleased with the D2 BM steel. There are alot of people who love and swear by D2 steel.

You'll have to decide for yourself if it's worth the money. Might want to do a search to hear other opinions.

Good luck

NJ
 
mdalby, the main advantage of M2 is that it can take a very acute and high polish and hold it better than D2. Given your comments, I think it would be hard to argue for M2 aside from it being a little tougher, but neither of these are tough steels. I would recommend a general sharpening similar to 15/20, meaning you shape the main bevel at 15 degrees and then sharpen as necessary at 20, leaving the edge somewhat coarse in general, Spyderco medium rods. This should give you a decent level of cutting ability and high durability, up to and including moderate metal cutting. If you refine it to a pure cutting tool and switch to a 10/15 or 5/10 grind then M2 will start to become more attractive, especially once your sharpening skills increase and you get more demanding about the cutting ability of your knife.

-Cliff
 
There are tougher blade steels when it comes to shocks and bending type trauma to the blades. M2 is an excellent cutter though, and a good steel. If it's your only survival folder I'd think you'd be better off with a VG10, 440C, S30V bladed knife, or better yet a plain or simple carbon steel rather than stainless.

The 710 is a particulary fine knife, though too long for some jurisdictions. I wouldn't pay a huge extra premium for M2 steel over the alternatives D2, or 154cm from benchmade . A bit more is ok, but too much more is not worth it. My opinions anyway. I do have an 710HS, as well as a M2 Stryker so I am familiar with the knives. Joe
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Why would you want 440C over Benchmade's M2 in a survival knife?

-Cliff
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:thumbup: Simple but good question.

I wouldn´t go with an M2 just because they are discontinioued. Shit happens and if you pay extra for M2 and it turns as a bad blade, how will you get the replacement, Benchmade usually offers?

Considering your cescription, i think you will be fine with the 154CM version.

I have a Nimravus in M2 and payed € 100,00 for it. At that small price i really enjoy the steel. I wouldn´t change it for D2.
 
I own a couple of 710's, A D2 and M2 version. With an M2, you are dealing with tight supply; if you are patient you can still find them for a fair price, but the supply is only going to become tighter as time goes on- the price for these knives on the auction market can approach the absurd. The D2's are readily available and are great knives for the price. I find D2 harder to sharpen than M2. That said, it does take a good edge, but for pure sharpness its M2 hands down. If you can find a new or used M2 710 in plain or partial serrated, grab it and never look back- you will not be disappointed. As for sharpening, get a sharpmaker, very convenient, effective and easy to use.
 
What steel is best for using the knife blade as a screwdriver??? I think most SS will 'rip' the blade or atlest deform it pretty bad... correct? I know it's not meant for this but when it'sall you have it really matters.
 
Why would you want 440C over Benchmade's M2 in a survival knife?
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Cost, and rust resistance in a still good steel. He's talking about paying an extra 150$ just to have M2 rather than D2, or Benchmades 440C or 154cm. IMO, he'd be better off using the extra money for a 2nd knife, perhaps even more appropriate.

A Griptillian isn't my first choice but for more than 150$ less I could sure live with it while using the extra money on a nice becker, Bark river, etc, and a hatchet. Note I'm not stating 440C is better than M2. I sure wouldn't feel naked with it though. Likewise 154cm. Joe
 
What steel is best for using the knife blade as a screwdriver???
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Whatever the kind of steel used in my camillus electrician screwdriver blade, or my leatherman, or some of my screwdriver sets in the toolbox. I've never seen any knife blade good for screwing, or tightening etc. No matter the steel, they all damage. Even the expensive knives with "super steels" like ZDP 189, S30V, S90V, M2, D2, etc etc. A SAK with it's soft steel is more suited because it has a screwdriver. Use the right tool. If you don't, don't bother complaining when you mess something up. JL
 
Well, I just bought me a new mint Benchmade 710 M2. It cost me $212.

I think it was worth the extra cash to get the steel that I wanted.

Maybe, I will have to take my wife to Wendy's a couple of weeks to offset the initial investment :) I am sure that she will understand. I can cut the burgers with my new EDC.

Thanks for the help uys.

MD
 
If it is worth the money to you, by all means get it. You do not want to look back and say 'what if?'. Overall, that seems to be the true deciding factor on a knife as the 710 is an amazing design and D2 and M2 have similar impact toughness figures, and realistically, neither are fixed blade tough. Benchmade reports their D2 now achieving a higher hardness than before; why this figure is up I do not know. If you like the idea of a M2 blade, get it; but keep in mind the cost of that blade is approaching CRK and Strider territory. So overall, if you are happy, can afford it, and can justify it, go for it.
 
mdalby said:
Well, I just bought me a new mint Benchmade 710 M2. It cost me $212.

I think it was worth the extra cash to get the steel that I wanted.

Maybe, I will have to take my wife to Wendy's a couple of weeks to offset the initial investment :) I am sure that she will understand. I can cut the burgers with my new EDC.

Thanks for the help uys.

MD
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Its a knife you will not be disappointed with. If I had to get rid of all my knives save one (or maybe two:)), the 710HSSR is the one I would be most likely to keep...either it or the M2 Ritter. Enjoy the knife:thumbup:
 
I EDC a BM 710 D2, and I can't imagine a better pocket knife. It's not that hard to sharpen, it holds an edge forever, and it's never had any kind of rust problem.

It's as close to a "perfect" pocket knife as I've ever seen.

Id still like to add a 710 M2 to my collection, but I think the 710 D2 would still be my
EDC.
 
NickZac said:
In a true survival situation, you want something easy to sharpen on primitive tools.
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440C is a poor choice for that for a number of reasons, primarily because it is actually designed as a high wear stainless and is full of large carbides. In general though this has far more to do with the suitability of the steel for the work than the grindability.

-Cliff
 
Cliff Stamp said:
440C is a poor choice for that for a number of reasons, primarily because it is actually designed as a high wear stainless and is full of large carbides. In general though this has far more to do with the suitability of the steel for the work than the grindability.

-Cliff
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In a survival situation, wouldn't corrosion resistance and ease of sharpening (stereotypically at the trade of edge retention) be the top factors? I said 440C because it was that, or M2. In a true survival situation, H1 is proving to be the steel that most people would choose as guys are reporting being able to sharpen it on coffee mugs.
 
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