M390 and CTS-204P get freakishly sharp!

V

Vegas Blade

Joined
Feb 9, 2012
Messages
902
I have to say that these two steels, for me, cross into the scary sharp arena! I have many of the "Super Steels", and I love them all, but these two just cross into another realm. I take my diamond rods on my Sharpmaker and do alternating passes to about 150 strokes per side. Then I move to my brown stones and do about 30 passes total. That's it! Nothing else. This REALLY lets the carbides do their work. It is very toothy, but it actually "grabs" whatever it is cutting. These two steels cut like an angry ex-wife!

What is everyone else's experience with these two? I'm still an M4 fan, love it, always will. I'm curious as to what y'all are getting from them?

BTW, I have S90V, and it's a monster too, but IDK why, these two really impress me.

Thoughts??
 
Aren't those two basically the same steel from two different companies? There are minute differences in the Tungsten and Silicone content, like 0.05 percent only, the rest is the same for both.
I guess that explains your results.
 
I've got the pm2 in cts 204p. I also have knives in h1 s30v, 154cm, bd1, 440 etc. of everything I own, I can get them all to whittle hair, but unlike your experience, most every knife I own will take a scarier edge than cts204-p. I wish I got your results, but I do not. Don't get me wrong. My pm2 is hair popping sharp...but my Millie in s30v is just a tiny bit sharper. And it seems to stay that way.
 
@ Mainaman, yes, they are essentially the same. The differences are so minute as to be insignificant. I have seen a couple tests though where CTS204P has out cut M390. The tester seemed to think it was due to the CTS204P being a different generation in the powder metallurgy.

Giving credit where it is due, I believe Ankerson ha those results on a test he did.
 
Most super steels seem to get scary sharp easier for me. Maybe because it is harder to mess up with a bad stroke. Now reprofiling and sharpening from butter knife dull is not fun. But if you don't let them get too far below shaving sharp, they are pretty easy to get tree topping sharp.

OP, have you tried the white rods instead of the brown? A couple dozen stores on the white rods is all it takes for me. A little time on a strop with 1 micron diamond spray just makes them better.
 
Yep, I don't like the "mirror" edge. I did a cut test between M4 and Cruwear. I very quickly realized that the pretty, shiny, razor sharp, mirror polished edge couldn't hold a candle to the "toothy " edge provided by the approx. 600 grit edge that the brown Sharpmaker edge provided. For me, in my use, the toothier edge cuts WAAAY better on rope, leather, hide, and meat. The shiny, pretty edges are neat to look at, but put them on rope, or hide, and they feel like they "slip off" more than bite in and cut. I mean the difference is night and day. My "toothy" edges will shave, and whittle a hair, but they absolutely attack rope and leather and the like. I leave the shiny edges to the paper and wood and such. Just my opinion, but the "toothier" edges will outcut the shiny ones by a wide margin. Just my opinion , on what I cut. YMMV.
 
Vegas Blade said:
I have to say that these two steels, for me, cross into the scary sharp arena! I have many of the "Super Steels", and I love them all, but these two just cross into another realm.
What is everyone else's experience with these two? I'm still an M4 fan, love it, always will. I'm curious as to what y'all are getting from them?
BTW, I have S90V, and it's a monster too, but IDK why, these two really impress me.
Thoughts??
Click to expand...
I never sharpened M390, 204P, or S90V, but sharpening S110V Native is not a problem with WE. Having right tools is important.
 
I just got a southard less than a week ago and I love the blade steel already, far better than s35 in my sebenzas.

it polishes up real nice.
 
Vegas Blade said:
Yep, I don't like the "mirror" edge. I did a cut test between M4 and Cruwear. I very quickly realized that the pretty, shiny, razor sharp, mirror polished edge couldn't hold a candle to the "toothy " edge provided by the approx. 600 grit edge that the brown Sharpmaker edge provided. For me, in my use, the toothier edge cuts WAAAY better on rope, leather, hide, and meat. The shiny, pretty edges are neat to look at, but put them on rope, or hide, and they feel like they "slip off" more than bite in and cut. I mean the difference is night and day. My "toothy" edges will shave, and whittle a hair, but they absolutely attack rope and leather and the like. I leave the shiny edges to the paper and wood and such. Just my opinion, but the "toothier" edges will outcut the shiny ones by a wide margin. Just my opinion , on what I cut. YMMV.
Click to expand...

I think that you have a misconception here. Just because a knife has pretty bevels doesn't mean it can't have a toothy microbevel. All my user knives start out with polished bevels but are microbeveled with either the sharpmaker browns or a DMT blue, depending on how toothy I need my edge to be.

So what I'm saying is, don't knock a knife because it has pretty bevels because you don't know enough about it and how much practical sharpening knowledge the owner has.
 
singularity35 said:
I think that you have a misconception here. Just because a knife has pretty bevels doesn't mean it can't have a toothy microbevel. All my user knives start out with polished bevels but are microbeveled with either the sharpmaker browns or a DMT blue, depending on how toothy I need my edge to be.

So what I'm saying is, don't knock a knife because it has pretty bevels because you don't know enough about it and how much practical sharpening knowledge the owner has.
Click to expand...

I have the same practice on my knives that get polished bevels. So while you see a mirror polished bevel, the actual cutting edge is a nice and toothy 400-600 grit or sharpmaker medium stone finish. It's the best of both world really. You get a really nice looker with an aggressive cutting edge.
 
It sounds like he doesn't have some knives micro beveled. I'm sure he knows everything you just explained to him. Just going by some posts I've seen of his. Maybe I'm wrong though.
 
singularity35 said:
I think that you have a misconception here. Just because a knife has pretty bevels doesn't mean it can't have a toothy microbevel. All my user knives start out with polished bevels but are microbeveled with either the sharpmaker browns or a DMT blue, depending on how toothy I need my edge to be.

So what I'm saying is, don't knock a knife because it has pretty bevels because you don't know enough about it and how much practical sharpening knowledge the owner has.
Click to expand...

I agree with everything you said here, but he never mentioned bevels. He was speaking specifically about highly polished edges. Back to the topic though, what's your experience with these two steels Chuck? Have you been able to get them sharper than other steels like s30v for example? I'm curious because I have not.
 
Singularity35, easy brother, I'm not knocking anyone's style or how they like to sharpen. That's why I put disclaimers like "in my opinion", and "for what I cut", and "YMMV". Everyone has their own style and preference.

As far as these two steels, given the same edge am same treatment, I personally feel like they have a ton of "bite" and seem to cut particularly well. On paper, S90V should have the advantage, and it may for long term edge retention, but these two have a better feel. Again I say, for me.
 
A very interesting read, Vegas! Everyone seems to have their own methods. As long as it cuts, I must be doing something right!

I've used most modern steels, but I'm still enjoying the cutting quality and initial sharpness I get from Super Blue steel.
 
@Vegas Blade: Fair enough dude. What thrrew me ogf was your rederence to "pretty edges". Seeing as edges aren't really visible, I assumed that you were referring to polished bevels.

@Gringo: I really like the kind of edges I can get on M390. I still haven't put my edge on my 204P para. As I mentioned, o polish my bevels and micro bevel, mostly with a brown sharpmaker.rod at 30° inclusive.
 
Thanks, but to be fair, I'm really light on the pressure when I go.for novelty edges so the brown rods might not be acting like brown rods with that light a stroke.
 
singularity35 said:
Thanks, but to be fair, I'm really light on the pressure when I go.for novelty edges so the brown rods might not be acting like brown rods with that light a stroke.
Click to expand...

Good point, Chuck. Pressure at the interface between blade and abrasive has a real effect on the fineness achievable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top