Machete discovery

pict · Feb 22, 2005

I’ve been cleaning up my various machetes recently. I have four Tramontina machetes that I use regularly, a 16, 14, and two 10-inch blades. These are the ones I loan out when I take groups into the bush. I was sharpening them with a small file and decided to square off the backs of the blades. This makes them look a whole lot better and the resulting edge will spark a ferrocium rod.

Just for kicks I held the spine of the blade perpendicular to the edge of my workbench and ran it along like a planer. Bingo! The spine is sharp enough to shave off long wispy curls of hardwood.

The shavings are very thin and curly; they light right up with the blastmatch. I think this squared off edge would be very useful scraping a dry hardwood log to make tinder, stripping bark from saplings, or scraping the inner edible bark from a trunk. This simple procedure is definitely a product improvement on the Tramontina machete. Just think, all that for five bucks. Mac

jackknife · Feb 22, 2005

And to think that some people have to repect for the machete!

Thats a great mod, I think I'll try that on my Ontatio 12 inchers.

Paul Davidson · Feb 22, 2005

That is a great idea. It seems like you could square off about half the length of the spine for scraping, and round off the half towards the tip for a comfortable place to hold while using the blade as a draw knife.

Hotrod · Feb 22, 2005

Just no more bracing against the spine for you!

pict · Feb 23, 2005

Paul,

A good way to make a comfortable grip is to wrap the blade or place it in the sheath and only pull out as much blade as you need as a draw knife. Hold the sheath and handle. Mac

bishop85gt · Feb 23, 2005

pict said:
Paul,

A good way to make a comfortable grip is to wrap the blade or place it in the sheath and only pull out as much blade as you need as a draw knife. Hold the sheath and handle. Mac

I tried that with my RTAK. Works well.

rebeltf · Feb 23, 2005

Pict , Im having a hard time understanding what part your reworked on your machete , any chance you can post a pic.

pict · Jun 20, 2005

I finally got around to taking some pics of this mod and e-mailed them to B Goode. He said he might get around to posting them this week.

This is such a simple thing to do all you need is a vice and a file. Actually I don't own a vice and used a C-clamp and an angle iron.

The other day I was at a youth event and used my machete to light a bonfire. Nobody here had ever seen a ferro rod. I think I got a few new recruits for my weekend survival trip. We'll see. Mac

PS what do you have to do to post pics here?

Cliff Stamp · Jun 20, 2005

pict said:
what do you have to do to post pics here?

Upgrade your membership, or simpy get a web hosting service, many of which are free.

Can't you do the scraping with the primary machete edge?

-Cliff

pict · Jun 20, 2005

Cliff,

Yes you can scrape with the primary edge but the blade bites into the wood and you get a thick shaving. The shavings that come off the squared off spine of the blade are extremely thin and light on fire with a spark. It's like setting planer to it's lowest possible setting and running board thorough. The shavings are super light and curly.

I've tested various seasoned hardwoods and used this technique under field conditons various times with great results. I haven't tested a seasoned hardwood wood yet that won't light on fire with a ferro rod. Sometimes it take s few strikes but it lights very well.

The curly factor makes a great tinderball "birdsnest" to use when blowing a coal into flame. One of the photos I sent illustrates this well.

Membership upgrade, hmm... sounds like I'm going to have to spend some more money. Mac

Cliff Stamp · Jun 21, 2005

pict said:
Yes you can scrape with the primary edge but the blade bites into the wood and you get a thick shaving.

One of the few drawbacks to a acute edge profile, it makes a horrible scraper. Wood scrapers are of course just edges sharpened at 45 degrees per side, the steel is usually really soft, ~45 HRC so it can be filed readily, I usually flat polish them and then run a hook as Lee describes in his book on sharpening.

On an ironic note this is one of the things that a really obtuse tactical knife can do well as the edges are often 25+ degrees per side. On acute knives to prevent them biting you can angle the blade towards you slightly, you will also get really thin shavings this way, I checked them under mag and they are thinner than newsprint, and kind of open and almost transparent.

It is kind of hard on a machete edge though as you will roll the edge readily and thus light grass work will suffer, your back scraper is better in this regard as it leaves the primary edge still crisp and razor sharp. I like to work with the back of my machetes at times though for various things, either holding on to it, or pounding on it, and thus have the region right infront of the handle with a suitable scraping edge, I sharpen mine to an obtuse angle 30+ degrees which allows bone and metal cutting as well.

Tramontina, Martinale and Barteaux all make solid machetes in various styles from light brush blades to decent bolos, one of my favorite wood working blades is a $5 Tramontia bolo. Stays with a GB Wildlife Hatchet on most woods, though binds a bit too readily on hard woods.

-Cliff