machete sharpening

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Feb 3, 2009
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I picked up an ESEE Lite Machete that needs alot of work on the edge. There are some spots, even in the strike zone, that are completely rounded over without a basic edge put on it.

My question is, do I need to establish a basic edge bevel before I can start to use wet/dry sandpaper and a mousepad to sharpen and convex the entire thing? If yes, then how? With a file? Or would I be able to grind a basic edge using the paper and pad method? The lowest grit I have is 180, then it jumps up to 320, 400, 600, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 and 2500.
 
Use a file, by all means. Filing is all that is usually necessary on a machete.
You can refine the edge from there, but any real benefit is doubtful.
 
A filed edge on a machete will clip the tops off grass, cut wild rose bushes, etc. However, I have a belt sander and convex mine to a shaving edge. If I didn't have power tools, it probably wouldn't be worth the effort. I tried it once and it took a looong time with a file, 220/1000 grit waterstone, and strop. FWIW, you can get a hair shaving edge with just a file, but it takes some practice.
 
I tend to agree that a belt sander would probably be your best bet to getting back an edge on a cutting tool that badly dulled. Once you get your edge back, keep an axe sharpening stone, or a stone used for sharpening a scythe in your back pocket, and every so often check your edge. Touch it up as needed, keep your edge there. With an axe stone,wear a leather glove as your hand will be very close to the edge as you re-sharpen it.
 
I just picked up a new Ontario machete. I have tried 7 files on it and they all skidded and did not cut, except for a Lee Valley double cut that is my hardest file. It still mostly skids, but will cut a little.

The machete was simply formed with no edge, i.e. thicker than a butter knife so any of my files, especially the Nicholson's, which are all very soft, are useless.

Maybe my machete is harder than most Ontarios, but the only way to sharpen this one is with a belt sander, diamond stone or a good waterstone. My Norton carborundum will cut it, of course, but it is so slow it would take days. Belt sander is the best idea, otherwise a good silicon carbide or ceramic waterstone of about 200 grit seems to be the fastest. Maybe an extra coarse diamond stone, but I wouldn't want to take the chance of wearing out a $70.00 stone sharpening a $25.00 machete.
 
I just picked up a new Ontario machete. I have tried 7 files on it and they all skidded and did not cut, except for a Lee Valley double cut that is my hardest file. It still mostly skids, but will cut a little.

The machete was simply formed with no edge, i.e. thicker than a butter knife so any of my files, especially the Nicholson's, which are all very soft, are useless.

Maybe my machete is harder than most Ontarios, but the only way to sharpen this one is with a belt sander, diamond stone or a good waterstone. My Norton carborundum will cut it, of course, but it is so slow it would take days. Belt sander is the best idea, otherwise a good silicon carbide or ceramic waterstone of about 200 grit seems to be the fastest. Maybe an extra coarse diamond stone, but I wouldn't want to take the chance of wearing out a $70.00 stone sharpening a $25.00 machete.


I always find people talking about Ontario machetes being dull as strange because the one I picked up a few years ago had a scary sharp edge on it
sharp enough I cut myself without realizing it. I would probably go with a belt sander.
 
I just picked up a new Ontario machete. I have tried 7 files on it and they all skidded and did not cut, except for a Lee Valley double cut that is my hardest file. It still mostly skids, but will cut a little.

The machete was simply formed with no edge, i.e. thicker than a butter knife so any of my files, especially the Nicholson's, which are all very soft, are useless.

Maybe my machete is harder than most Ontarios, but the only way to sharpen this one is with a belt sander, diamond stone or a good waterstone. My Norton carborundum will cut it, of course, but it is so slow it would take days. Belt sander is the best idea, otherwise a good silicon carbide or ceramic waterstone of about 200 grit seems to be the fastest. Maybe an extra coarse diamond stone, but I wouldn't want to take the chance of wearing out a $70.00 stone sharpening a $25.00 machete.

Funny, I'm just about to order a Nicholson double cut from Lee Valley and have been thinking about an Ontario Machete. I think I'll go ahead with both orders as I have enough appropriate sharpening stuff (wet/dry paper, puck axe sharpening stone, diamond stones, diamond paste on leather) to throw at it if the file doesn't work for some strange reason.

Update: I got my ESEE machete to shave using wet/dry paper and mousepad. Started with 180, then 320, 400, and finshed at 600. It took forever. I sure am looking forward to that file.
 
Hey there. I use machetes all the time. I carry a 6 or 8 inch bastard file that is double sided. Now, one of the sides i will put against my belt sander, and smooth it out. You can still see the ridges, but very slightly. The other side is untouched. Usually, i hit it with the courser side of the file, then flip it over and use the smoother side. For me, this is all that you need. My edges get very sharp this way. Just the way i do it. Unless you are ONLY chopping grass, your edge will be dull again sooner than you think. A couple shots with both sides of the file, and good as new again. And, just a 6 inch file in my pocket while out in the field, is great for me. No need to sharpen a machete to such high grits like 2500 or something. A file is all you need, just smooth out one side a little.
 
I use a DMT Diafold C/F on mine when it dulls, though it is convexed and in pretty decent shape when I resharpen. Mine is a Corona, FWIW. On mine, it will chop sort of OK when dull, but bites much deeper when sharp, and works better on lighter stuff by far when it is sharper.
 
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