Machetes and batoning... recomendations

Unbreakable

Unbreakable

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Sep 21, 2002
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Hey guys... so here is my question. Do machetes do well at batoning or does their thing blade make this less efficient. Seems to me that the thinner blade would move through the wood better but a thicker blade would do a better job of separating it (forcing it apart). The reason I ask is that I generally keep a few knives in my truck for the "You Never Know" situation. I keep a large bowie style knife in there for chop work and the various other things large outdoors knives are good for. I also keep a smaller fixed blade and a leatherman because I find them the most handy outdoors. I think a good machete would also be good to keep with me but that got me to thinking would a large fixed blade really be needed anymore if I throw a good 12" machete into the game. So I wanted to see what you guys thought. I can get just about everything done with a small machete that I can with a large fixed blade knife... but batoning is something I'm not sure about. Love to hear your thoughts... and recomendations on a nice machete with a 12" or so blade... not looking for anything custom that costs $200.00.... something under $50.00 would fit the bill. If it's more expensive than that.... I got a Battle Mistress LOL.
 
I've batoned the hell out of my Tramontina machetes. They do fine. Typical machete tempering makes them extremely tough. And the typical length makes for easy batoning, compared to a typical belt knife.
 
The problem is the baton. The thin profile of the machete can quickly chew up any wood stick you use to baton with.
 
Most quality machetes should hold up to batoning just fine, but you're correct that thicker knives will split the wood apart better. Thin blades also tear up batons more quickly.

I think machetes are great for vegetation, but if I knew I'd be batoning I'd take the BM :)
 
LOL... why can't they make one knife that does it all. Chop down an oak tree and make a cabin then make fries 32 different ways.
 
I've batoned a lot with my tramontina.
it flexes a little, in knotty wood, but it always goes back straight.
The thing just works. amazing stuff. reliable, versatile and cheap.
 
MikeJackmin said:
You could always try a Kukri.
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Tried them... They chop like no-one's business but the fall short IMHO in many areas where a straight blade excels. Perhaps for someone who has used them all their life this is not true... but I don't want to spend the next 5 years becoming a master of the hukri. I do just fine with straight blades.
 
Vivi said:
Axes do surprisingly well at food prep :D
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So I've read... but a large axe is something I don't want to lug around all the time and hatchets don't split wood nearly as well in my experience as a longer blade batoned through the wood. When I split firewood I don't use a knife LOL. But in a pinch batoning a blade through wood is a handy thing to be able to do. Now maybe I'm doing something wrong... if anyone can point me to a some reading on spliting wood with a hatchet I'd be interested.
 
You can baton with a machete just fine but it's going to bind up a lot more than one with a hefty spine and a saber grind.
 
I may go with something like a Kershaw Outcast. It's thinner than most beefy outdoor knives but still thicker than a machete. Cheap enough to be relatively disposable too so I can leave it in my truck with a clear head in case it gets stolen. Not quite a 12" blade but that was only a guideline... I think the kershaw has a 10" blade... and D2 is some pretty substantial stuff. I hope they put a good heat treat on it... I'd hate for it to snap.
 
From what I've heard they do a good job. At any rate it's a chopping blade so if it were to self-destruct on you when used for such it should be considered as under warranty. A veeeeeeeery comfortable knife, by the way.

On an amusing note, at the shop we used to have one in the front window and it got quite hot in the sun. We used to joke about frying an egg on the broad teflonized blade...never did get around to it. :D
 
Binding isn't really an issue when batoning. It might be an issue if using a small knife. But that excludes any machete. The big advantage of a machete is toughness, a critical factor when beating on them with a stick.
 
shecky said:
Binding isn't really an issue when batoning. It might be an issue if using a small knife. But that excludes any machete. The big advantage of a machete is toughness, a critical factor when beating on them with a stick.
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Do you not think something like the Outcast would hold up to batoning?
 
As thick as it's edge is reputed to be, it should be fine. The thing is, the thin blade of the machete isn't less durable. Generally, harder blades are more prone to failure than softer blades. Machetes are almost universally softer, tempered more like springs than knives. Something like a Tramontina is very unlikely to fracture under such use. Plus, a machete costs a fraction of the Outcast, and it won't break your heart if you accidentally whack a hidden brick or leave it in the forest.

If the Outcast were the same steel and hardness, but only as thick as the Tramontina, I'd be much less willing to trust it when batoning. But it's not.
 
I don't do it a lot, but my 12" Ontario's (one thin, one thick) baton just fine. The thin one flexes alarmingly at times in twisted wood but always comes back straight. When I do get them stuck, a wooden wedge pushed into the top of the split will free it right up. This also lets you split larger pieces more easily.
 
Ive batoned thru the slab of frozen meat and cut big bone (about inch in diameter).
My Tramontina done the job, but the edge rolled.
DSC00877.jpg
 
shecky said:
Binding isn't really an issue when batoning. It might be an issue if using a small knife. But that excludes any machete. The big advantage of a machete is toughness, a critical factor when beating on them with a stick.
Click to expand...

Machetes being as thin and flexible as they are can bind up if batoned through wood with a twisted or knotted grain. The wide surface area increases the "stickiness" of perceived friction while any bends as it works is way through can make further progress difficult. It's fine on relatively straight-grained wood but I would definitely suggest something more rigid and thick for the really gnarly stuff. Can a machete do it? Sure. Will it be hell as compared to a more robust blade style? Sometimes yes. It all depends.
 
The 12" Ontario machetes are considerably thicker than the average. I have one thats been modded[convex edge] by Siguy of the WSS forum that chops better than my CS Trailmaster or BK-1--KV
 
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