Machette sharpening

B

brembo

Joined
Sep 29, 2001
Messages
79
Hello all.

I'm a surveyor in the mountains of Western North Carolina. I use a machette everyday, well almost everyday, when in town I tend to not carry one. Anyways I need some advice on how to sharpen these monsters. I can put a hair-popping edge on a small knife, but I'm totally dumbfounded when it comes to a 22" blade.

I bought one of those plastic sharpeners that have two tungeston inserts at an angle, it will put a decent THIN edge on the blade, but when I get into hardwoods, it rolls the edge. I was wondering if anyone has a good in-field sharpening tactic. I don't mind dragging around something fairly light and easy to use.

Tips on the bevel angle and implements that I can use at the shop would be appreciated as well.

Any ideas on brands and where to buy em would also make my day. I belive my current blade is a Martindale(out of England I think).

Thanks y'all.
 
First of, I *don't* reccomend those tungsten blade peelers. They take off way too much metal, and as you found out, don't give a decent edge anyway.

The biggest blades I have are a 10 inch khukri and a 12 inch Ontario machete. I sharpen them the same way I do my smallest blades: with a set of stones. In the field, I have even used a stone that is only 1x3 inches, and about 3/16 of an inch thick. You really can sharpen big blades on small stones, once you learn the "secret": hold the stone in your off hand, so that you can control it better as you sharpen. Also, by holding the stone, you don't have to worry about the end of the blade hitting the table while you're sharpening.

I (being left handed) hold the machete in my left hand, and cradle the stone in my right. I keep the hand holding the stone steady, and move the blade across the surface of the stone. It also helps if you hold the stone at about eye level while you sharpen. That way you can gauge your edge bevels better.

Hope that helps. Using this method, I can sharpen my big blades just as easily, and as sharp, as the small ones.
 
V Shrake-

Thanks for the help. I need to work on my honing skills (skills honing...heh). I use a lansky and a steel at home for my folders and smaller fixed blades. I have a smallish Arkansas stone I can drag around in the woods.
 
Try to use diamond sharpeners instead of ceramic. DMT Double Sided Diafold Sharpener is a light field sharpener of the right size for larger blades.
I would prefer the one with one fine side and a coarse mesh on the other side. A coarse diamond sharpener can do a quick job on your machete (=fewer strokes) unless you need some special fine edge that can be done on the other side of the same folding sharpener.
Also, I am not sure if using a diamond rod is easier than a flat stone on large blades but most butchers I have seen used steel rod on their longer blades. Maybe the rod is easier to control handheld for the right angle than a flat stone. Anyhow, DMT also sells Diafold rod sharpeners.

Hope it helps.

HM
 
Thanks y'all. I get so frustrated when I begin to knock down branches and briars, rather than actually cut em. No way I'm gonna whip out a bastard file in the woods try to find something to rest the blade on, besides a b file is just hard to carry. They poke ya, no matter where ya carry em.

Again, I do appreciate the help. Gonna check out the plate idea, can probably bet that to fit somewhere in the total station case.
 
Brembo:

If you or someoen you know has a belt sander, you may want to put a convex edge on your machete. It is easy to do and very fast. A convex edge would hold up well. Taking a Diafold in the field for touchup would be my recommendation too. I'm hoping Santa brings me the Coarse/Fine diafold this year.
 
Had exactly the same problem with my long Blackjack Marauder II which I use as my hard wood chopper.

Forum members helped out and the solution is as already stated.
Belt sander for home to remove bad dinks and give a nice moran edge. In the field I use two DMT Diafold Double Diamond hones. Black and blue for removing steel fast and Red and Green for finishing. The flat Green will steel when working. I hold down the blade and work the diafolds. I find the flat type keeps a nice straight edge over time and you don't end up with a reverse curve or wavey edge.

If you are going to use a flat block type hone then use a big one.

Having a razor sharp machette, rather than dullish one, requires a little more control. They will cut deep into a leather boot, rather than bounce off. Don't grab the blade as you will cut your fingers. Yes I know this is obvious but for some reason machettes make you do things that you just wouldn't do with a smaller blade. There is that much greater fatigue factor that makes your brain wander :eek:
 
I have concerns about getting a machette too sharp(is there such a thing?:D ) On occasion I will clip my boot or shin, but chaps have saved me, and I wear some serious mountaineering boots. But an ultra sharp machette would go through it like butter. I ran across a guy once that could put a scary sharp edge on blades with a fine b-file. Everytime I bump into him I watch him sharpen, but cannot emulate his skills. Gonna give the advice a try. Thanks folks.
 
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