Machined Aluminum and Wood Bow Drill Fire Top Bearing Prototype - input requested.

Diomedes Industries

Diomedes Industries

Joined
Mar 19, 2007
Messages
7,443
I quickly made this prototype the other day as a top bearing for a Bow Drill. My thoughts are that I would like to make these with more care - properly countersunk screws, and a brass or aluminum tube for a lanyard or a length of cordage that you could use for the bow itself.

The aluminum is 1/4" thick and the dimple is a little under 1/8th thick. The aluminum does get warm when used as a top bearing - but the wood absorbs the heat a dissapates it before it gets to your hand.

The bearing itself is 2 1/4" Oval and 3/4" Thick.

My thinking is if you had this in your kit with a length of cordage (perhaps made into a cobra stitch as a sort of fob, you would always have a really efficient way to make bow drill fire and cordage.

I know that there are some marring on the aluminum (I dropped the bar after milling it - dang it) and I know the lanyard hole is a little too close to the edge - it didn't start out that way - but it was a little too large so I cut it down... anyway...


What are your thoughts?

BowDrillTopBearingPrototype001.jpg


BowDrillTopBearingPrototype002.jpg



TF
 
Last edited:
I like it. but I would like to see one more like a Oval instead of round. Just my thoughts though.
I have one that I made up using orange G-10 and then a piece of 0-1 steel with a drilled in divit that I made.
It works like a charm.

Bryan
 
Jason, I will get a pic posted or maybe even a video for ya on Wednesday of it in use. I will be back in the shop then.

Bryan
 
Just a thought, but maybe cutting a notch into the outer edge to form a yo-yo type area, where you could store a length of tarred nylon line or something similar for cordage.
 
i like it! ditto on the oval/bar of soap shape. coming from someone who's trying to acquire the bow drill skill, the bearing block is frustrating me since it's robbing my effort.
 
I have found that the round bearing block is really comfortable - but I will make a more oval one to see what I think of it.

Thanks for the input - keep it up yall..

TF
 
Hi all,

Jason, here is the bearing I was talking about. I have been feeling a little under the weather for several days plus lol. but I am on the down slide and getting better made it over the shop today to make this video of the orange G-10 with a 0-1 pieced of steel I glued into it.
Just click on the pic below and it will take you to my photo bucket acct. and play the video.


Anyways, If I had used my longer blow it would have been around 20 strokes to have my coal built. but I was using one of my smaller bows so it takes about 40 or so strokes to build the coal up.


Bryan
 
WOW - thanks so much for the review. It was a blast to watch you just go at it. You can see how the bearing will last forever and is virtually friction free. The top of the spindle is essentially undamaged - whereas you had a coal on the other end.

Thanks for taking the time Bryan - but...




next time warn me... You sort of scared my kids when they saw your ugly mug on my computer screen. ;)




Thanks man!

TF
 
I love the idea! You have quite the creative mind. For what it's worth, I wouldn't mind seeing more of a tear drop shape, rather than just oval. However, if your prototype is small enough, I dont see why a round bearing wouldn't work either. Ron Hood often recommended using an old shot glass after all.
 
Pretty awesome idea. I personally like the rounded shape. I would love to test one out if you ever make another. Id totally pay for something like that.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top