Macuahuitl- Aztec obsidion war sword...modernized?

H

Hawgsnawt

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Aug 16, 2015
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I'm toying with a build and was seeking feedback LOL.... I'm one of those guys that constantly needs to be fiddling with something, building some weird zombie killing weapon I saw off youtube or some BS like that.... anyway, I hit on an idea.... figgered I'd ask you folks what you thought, maybe someone can think of a reason it won't work and save me the time and trouble LOL

What I'm thinking is the Cold Steel Liverpool Assassin... its a cricket bat! flat on the back side....looks like this.



and adding some of these serrated knife sections from the local tractor supply...they are about 3x3inch and hardened steel .....



now, if we combine those 2 items in ust the right way, could we not end up with a very serviceable version of one of these.... but made with much more user friendly and modern materials....



I'm thinking with the flat back on the Liverpool Assassin I should be able to stand it up on edge and ride it down the gate on my table saw, using its blade depth adjustment to cut the slot to a precise depth with use of a fine toothed blade. Once the slot is milled out, measure out and drill the mounting holes on the drill press to run bolts thru to hold the teeth in....

should work no? yes? anything you'd do different?....something I'm overlooking?..... :)
 
I have mucked about with CS polypro items a bit, and this sounds doable. Might have to rename it the Teotihuacan Mauler though.
 
Glue would work fine, and keep the weight down (not that weight would matter much for a non-sword object).
 
I saw in the Peabody Museum in MA a sword from the South Pacific. Like your idea but with shark teeth instead of obsidion. Shark teeth are serrated on the edges !!!
 
I'd suggest using a high quality glue as well. Even rivets for knife sections (no added weight for nuts like bolts) are surprisingly heavy in the sort of numbers you'd need. Looks like an interesting project. Good luck.
 
If the bat isn't hollow you could straighten it's arched back and front and the removed material will save some weight. Also the bat looks quite wide compared to the original correcting this will save even more weight.

If you don't want to secure all the teeth with bolts maybe you'd consider to use bolts on the upper one third, the portion which will be subjected to most of the forces?

I know the teeth are hardened and grinding on them would be a pain but if you feel up to it you could change the bottom portion from straight into two corners which could be hammered into the bat which will secure it even more than just glue alone. If hammering doesn't work, heating them up a bit and pushing them into the melting plastic could work.
 
Jens Schuetz said:
If the bat isn't hollow you could straighten it's arched back and front and the removed material will save some weight. Also the bat looks quite wide compared to the original correcting this will save even more weight.

If you don't want to secure all the teeth with bolts maybe you'd consider to use bolts on the upper one third, the portion which will be subjected to most of the forces?

I know the teeth are hardened and grinding on them would be a pain but if you feel up to it you could change the bottom portion from straight into two corners which could be hammered into the bat which will secure it even more than just glue alone. If hammering doesn't work, heating them up a bit and pushing them into the melting plastic could work.
Click to expand...

This may not be as big a pain as it sounds like. Usually the sections I buy for my mower are visibly differently colored along the cutting edge, an indication of differential hardening. The bases would be softer.
 
Well, I ordered and received the saw sections... have the table saw, drill press, but I've run into a snag.... CS is dragging its feet releasing the Liverpool Assassin SO...... just as soon as I can source one, I'll move forward with the build..... unless it just takes too darned long, then I'm liable to source a Red Oak 2x6 and do it out of hand shaped wood.....

I'd rather have the Poly I think, I honestly believe it will hold up better made with Poly than wood.... but if push comes to shove, its hard to go wrong with Oak.....

Updates to follow...
 
I make my tomahawk trainers out of ABS plastic. Might look into that for your project. I use 3/4" stuff, and a 4" wide bar from McMaster-Carr is under $14 per foot plus shipping. It's stiffer than the polypropylene and will be plenty tough.

You can shape it with saws and routers. It doesn't like grinding so much, but that's true for most plastics. Just move it against the direction of belt travel.
 
Just buy a genuine willow cricket bat.
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